Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys, im thinking of doing an engine swap with my non turbo skyline. i looked in the search but most of it was bolting on turbos rather than engine swaps. i want to go with the rb25det. i was just wondering if anybody knew some infomation on this process about little things such as same/different engine mountings and what would need to be changed engine wise. im aware of the gearbox/clutch/diff factors but just differences of the engines not too sure. im a mechanic so i wil be doing it myself at work.

any information that can be given would be greatly appreciated.

thanks, michael

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/96361-rb25de-to-rb25det-engine-swap/
Share on other sites

Waste of time unless you've completly done up the car and love it in other aspects, your looking at brake upgrades, auto electrician to re-wire your car, new ecu, as far as im aware engine will drop straight in though. Then you have 2 cut inside the engine bay for the intercooler piping, and at the end of it would probably cost around $4000 with brake upgrade, then $660 for engineering (the RTA said it HAD to be done) so there you go.

Dayne

Can get a series 1 R33 for around 13-15k..You might get 10k for yours..

Less hassle and you've got a car with better resale down the track. If you have done a conversion on yours people will always question the quality of it..It will never sell for as much as a stock turbo..

Edited by benl1981

im not 2 fussed about what its going to have better resale value or cutting room for intercooler piping. this is a hobby for me and i have the ability to do it. im happy with the car i have and i know what is/isnt wrong with the car. i dont want to buy another persons problems. the reason why i want to swap the engine is that i have the ability to work on my car myself and i can learn off it. i know that money wise i will be better off selling and buying a turbo skyline but i want to do it for myself.

im not 2 fussed about what its going to have better resale value or cutting room for intercooler piping.  this is a hobby for me and i have the ability to do it.  im happy with the car i have and i know what is/isnt wrong with the car.  i dont want to buy another persons problems.  the reason why i want to swap the engine is that i have the ability to work on my car myself and i can learn off it.  i know that money wise i will be better off selling and buying a turbo skyline but i want to do it for myself.

just finsihed doing this conversion. not to expensive when u do it ur self. bolt on turbo to RB25DE i have herd good reports about but u cant run much over 10 psi. its a pretty straight forward conversion so give it ago and dont worry wat other ppl say bout wasting money, its all about learning. Wack in the DET and run 15 psi thru it. im sure ull have a smile on ya face.

it has been done plenty of times its a straight forward conversion.

if you use the rb25de gear box its a bolt in situation wiring being the only hassle pay some one some cash and its sorted quick.

if you use the rb 25 det gearbox you need to get the tail shaft with the box.

is better to upgrade brakes and also swap the rear end for the r33 gtst you get lsd brakes etc much easier and quicker.

it might not be worth doing worth doing if you are converting from auto to manual add quite a bit more the auto's have adiffernt floor pan to the manuals.

the rb25de gear box should last on the stock turboed rb25det if treated gently. they are the same as the stock rb20 and sr20det ones.

meggala

Edited by meggala

with insurance my excess will go up another 400 and i can have unlimited modifications. i still got my no claim aswell which makes it cheaper.

my car is manual..thank god :D and does hav lsd but wil prob swap it neway with gtst/gtr gearbox depending which way i go...just gota research it a bit more

yeah with a turbo de you will beat them off the line because you have higher compression. sure you cant run as much boost but what is so great about running high boost? running 6psi in the turbo is somthing like 10psi in the motor. not sure tho.

i would go with the rb25det gearbox. is almost as strong as a gtr and you dont need to modify it. to run rear wheel drive.

i would definatly have to say just turbo your car as it is now. nobody will know the difference really from a rb25det and a rb25de with turbo just by looking at it?

yer, i know what your saying...but i dont care what ppl think or weather they can tell the difference between the engines. i have my car as a project car and i wana make it kinda unique...not so much of just bolting on a turbo...but to have it different from the rest...rb26. at the moment its just plans while saving money from work, but just wana sort out what i would need to do if i go through with it. if i dont end up going with a gtr engine i will swap with a gtst engine

yeah thats tru. thats why im building up a rb30de. that is almost unheard of in NZ cus everybody just builds rb30dets.. then i get the comment why dont you put a turbo on it.. so annoying.

i have a mate that is putting a rb26 in to his r32 gts using a 25t gearbox. my other mate just put a rb20det in to his gts and he is keeping it auto and with a single spinner diff.

if you want to be differnt you could super charge your motor? put an sr20det in? or do you want to keep the sound of the rb?

yeah thats tru. thats why im building up a rb30de. that is almost unheard of in NZ cus everybody just builds rb30dets.. then i get the comment why dont you put a turbo on it.. so annoying.

i have a mate that is putting a rb26 in to his r32 gts using a 25t gearbox. my other mate just put a rb20det in to his gts and he is keeping it auto and with a single spinner diff.

if you want to be differnt you could super charge your motor? put an sr20det in? or do you want to keep the sound of the rb?

i was goign to supercharge it lol...i got all info n shit about it all planned haha...but yer, for a supercharger and then building it all 2 fit wil prob cost almost the same as an engine swap. worked it out that with a big supercharger im lookin about 5000 for it, then parts to fit it...i beter off gettin a rb26 or summin

i was goign to supercharge it lol...i got all info n shit about it all planned haha...but yer, for a supercharger and then building it all 2 fit wil prob cost almost the same as an engine swap.  worked it out that with a big supercharger im lookin about 5000 for it, then parts to fit it...i beter off gettin a rb26 or summin

nice dude. good luck with what ever you do decide to do. my mate is bugeting 10k for his rb26 in to his gts.

i had also seen a 4 or 5ltr v8 chev in to a r33 coupe. damn it lookd crazy.. but it had a huge assd bug catcher so you wouldnt have been able to see much. haha

but he said somthing like 20k had gone in to developing it

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...