Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im still using an OS twin. Was cheap to rebuild ($600 ea for plates)

Its nie and heavy. But i prefer that to a light feeling clutch my laser has :P

So im not using a Jim Berry... but that many people here have changed over the them and are raving. Pedal feels light, takes massive abuse etc.

Pulled the OS out, no problems after 6 months. As new

I'm sorting out putting my RB25 gearbox in my R31 in preparation for the RB30DET that is being built.

Looking at ~250RWKW. Unsure what sort of clutch to look at - want something practical, but am on a tight budget.

Im still using an OS twin. Was cheap to rebuild ($600 ea for plates)

Its nie and heavy. But i prefer that to a light feeling clutch my laser has :P

So im not using a Jim Berry... but that many people here have changed over the them and are raving. Pedal feels light, takes massive abuse etc.

Pulled the OS out, no problems after 6 months. As new

Yeah Jim Berry is the clutch GOD..

he made my 1200pound clutch into a 4300pound clutch within minutes of me walking into his shop.

so you have the "full monty" single plate set-up? whats it like to drive? does it cope well under abuse (dragging, track work, or burnouts etc...). what sort of power an torque are you putting through it?

DSC01118.jpg

I have yet to use the clutch above, built by Jim berry. I am still working on getting my freshly built engine back into the skyline. However I am looking for 320rwkw +.

I orginally had a NPC heavy duty clutch, which according the Jim actually started out as a VL commo clutch. He modified the preasure plate to more than tripple it's clamping pressure, and built me a new clutch plate using a new excedy 5 puck sprung clutch centre from a nissan patrol modified with his own carbotic buttons. This cost me $850.

Ring him, listen to what he has to say about clutches for 3 hours and in the end he'll tell you exactly what you want.

yeah he spoke to me for quite some time!! certainly a world of knowledge. He said he may be able to use my old excedy button clutch depending on what parts it had (some of the older ones have same diaphrams an stuff as Nismo aparantly, but the new ones he cant use?)

so next weekend i'm pulling out the g/box & clutch to see if I can use it or not. hopefully it'll be all back together an like new before christmas.

Not looking forward to pulling the clutch out on the ground of my garage, shoulfnt take too long though

The NISMO Coppermix is rated at 420HP at the engine and is a single plate full-faced clutch(smoother for street driving). This is the clutch i'm getting for my S15 as a twin plate would most likely kill the fragile 6 speed gearbox. Best price I found would be a Melbourne dealer named RMS Motorsport, quoted me $1450 pick up from the stoe in Melbourne. This price included the lightened flywheel, clutch plate, pressure plate, fork etc. Speak to Henry at RMS if you decide to go for the NISMO clutch, a nicer guy you won't find.

The NISMO Coppermix is rated at 420HP at the engine and is a single plate full-faced clutch(smoother for street driving). This is the clutch i'm getting for my S15 as a twin plate would most likely kill the fragile 6 speed gearbox. Best price I found would be a Melbourne dealer named RMS Motorsport, quoted me $1450 pick up from the stoe in Melbourne. This price included the lightened flywheel, clutch plate, pressure plate, fork etc. Speak to Henry at RMS if you decide to go for the NISMO clutch, a nicer guy you won't find.

the one Jim Berry can make is also a single full faced clutch, using a better friction material of some sort and much stronger diaphram. From what he tells me, it can handle 550hp+ and a fair amount of abuse. he quoted me $1100 for this brand new clutch, delivered from QLD to my door (VIC). the only thing it doesnt have is the light flywheel, which from what im told on Skylines makes gear changes rough an the car a bit harder to get off the line hard?

Hey fella, my mate works at Xtreme Clutch here in Adelaide below is thier website have a bit of a look around it, the phone number is 1800 CLUTCH and you can speak with Brad, tell him your power and what you want out of it and he will sort you out with what you need.........hope this helps you out

http://www.xtremeclutch.com.au/

Good luck

Darren

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Driveline vibration is resolved. I ended up loosening all my engine mount and trans mount bolts, giving it a good shake then retightening everything and it's gone... Let's just say I was surprised that fixed it.  I've been happily driving it around again but unfortunately put zero time into my direct port/constant pressure WMI setup. I'm on vacation next week, so I'll try and finalize it then.  On a different note, I spent all week fuel/ignition mapping 2x 216L V16 engines. Turbo's were burning glycol and we swapped them out for larger units. We also had planned emissions testing on site, so I figured I'd be there the same week to use their instrumentation and massage any emissions issues out if needed. This was a first for me. Fuel management is similar in certain ways to automotive (i.e air density as load variable) but very different in others. It's all PLC based and AFR's are controlled by air and not fuel. They use a control valve between the turbo and air manifold to control pressure which in turn controls AFR's. Due to this, target AFR tables supplied by the OEM are in pressures and not mass which really through me off. They use air pressure vs fuel pressure tables. I also relied on an O2 concentration sensor the emissions team had in the exhaust. Ignition timing was also all over the place and we were losing a fair bit of power. They're now happily sitting at 16-40BTDC depending on load. We were making about 1600kw at 900rpm at 90% load. Engines were running a lot smoother as well.    
    • heh, aint no R32 ever meeting modern targa cage rules unless the driver is veeeery short OP, good luck with the sale, since its already in the land of freedom I'm sure you will find a good buyer.
    • meh, it was a good video, clear about the issue and how he dealt with it. A bit heavy on the RTV and very brave to put an RB in anything without rebuilding it first, but otherwise I thought it was good Dose, I'm not sure that having the pickup forward is a big issue; yes of course the oil could shift under brakes but the sump should never be empty enough for that to be a problem (unless you also have a higher volume oil pump, and that oil can't return from the head to the sump quickly enough)
    • I can donate $100 to your upgrade fund. So long as you can donate the IC7 my way....
    • I'd love a Haltech ECU, and Haltech 10 dash. Was having a chat with Rob and Andy @ Haltech when Rob put one in his MR2. First one I'm kind of interested in too, as you can dim it RIGHT down. Andy was saying bright dashes is one of his peeves too!
×
×
  • Create New...