Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im still using an OS twin. Was cheap to rebuild ($600 ea for plates)

Its nie and heavy. But i prefer that to a light feeling clutch my laser has :P

So im not using a Jim Berry... but that many people here have changed over the them and are raving. Pedal feels light, takes massive abuse etc.

Pulled the OS out, no problems after 6 months. As new

I'm sorting out putting my RB25 gearbox in my R31 in preparation for the RB30DET that is being built.

Looking at ~250RWKW. Unsure what sort of clutch to look at - want something practical, but am on a tight budget.

Im still using an OS twin. Was cheap to rebuild ($600 ea for plates)

Its nie and heavy. But i prefer that to a light feeling clutch my laser has :P

So im not using a Jim Berry... but that many people here have changed over the them and are raving. Pedal feels light, takes massive abuse etc.

Pulled the OS out, no problems after 6 months. As new

Yeah Jim Berry is the clutch GOD..

he made my 1200pound clutch into a 4300pound clutch within minutes of me walking into his shop.

so you have the "full monty" single plate set-up? whats it like to drive? does it cope well under abuse (dragging, track work, or burnouts etc...). what sort of power an torque are you putting through it?

DSC01118.jpg

I have yet to use the clutch above, built by Jim berry. I am still working on getting my freshly built engine back into the skyline. However I am looking for 320rwkw +.

I orginally had a NPC heavy duty clutch, which according the Jim actually started out as a VL commo clutch. He modified the preasure plate to more than tripple it's clamping pressure, and built me a new clutch plate using a new excedy 5 puck sprung clutch centre from a nissan patrol modified with his own carbotic buttons. This cost me $850.

Ring him, listen to what he has to say about clutches for 3 hours and in the end he'll tell you exactly what you want.

yeah he spoke to me for quite some time!! certainly a world of knowledge. He said he may be able to use my old excedy button clutch depending on what parts it had (some of the older ones have same diaphrams an stuff as Nismo aparantly, but the new ones he cant use?)

so next weekend i'm pulling out the g/box & clutch to see if I can use it or not. hopefully it'll be all back together an like new before christmas.

Not looking forward to pulling the clutch out on the ground of my garage, shoulfnt take too long though

The NISMO Coppermix is rated at 420HP at the engine and is a single plate full-faced clutch(smoother for street driving). This is the clutch i'm getting for my S15 as a twin plate would most likely kill the fragile 6 speed gearbox. Best price I found would be a Melbourne dealer named RMS Motorsport, quoted me $1450 pick up from the stoe in Melbourne. This price included the lightened flywheel, clutch plate, pressure plate, fork etc. Speak to Henry at RMS if you decide to go for the NISMO clutch, a nicer guy you won't find.

The NISMO Coppermix is rated at 420HP at the engine and is a single plate full-faced clutch(smoother for street driving). This is the clutch i'm getting for my S15 as a twin plate would most likely kill the fragile 6 speed gearbox. Best price I found would be a Melbourne dealer named RMS Motorsport, quoted me $1450 pick up from the stoe in Melbourne. This price included the lightened flywheel, clutch plate, pressure plate, fork etc. Speak to Henry at RMS if you decide to go for the NISMO clutch, a nicer guy you won't find.

the one Jim Berry can make is also a single full faced clutch, using a better friction material of some sort and much stronger diaphram. From what he tells me, it can handle 550hp+ and a fair amount of abuse. he quoted me $1100 for this brand new clutch, delivered from QLD to my door (VIC). the only thing it doesnt have is the light flywheel, which from what im told on Skylines makes gear changes rough an the car a bit harder to get off the line hard?

Hey fella, my mate works at Xtreme Clutch here in Adelaide below is thier website have a bit of a look around it, the phone number is 1800 CLUTCH and you can speak with Brad, tell him your power and what you want out of it and he will sort you out with what you need.........hope this helps you out

http://www.xtremeclutch.com.au/

Good luck

Darren

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...