Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Just got my hands of a slighyly modified gtst r33 as far as i know the only mods are slightly bigger turbo, turbo back trust exhaust, slightly bigger intercooler so anyway ... today i connected a boost guage to check what its actually doing. It reads that it is running 7 psi till about 4500rpm then it hits 9psi. So i went and bought a manaul boost controller just a little t piece bastard and fitted it in.. I set it a turn and went for a drive i hoped that this would make it hold a consistent boost pressure i was on 9psi untill about 4500rpm again this time the bastard jumped to 16psi so i backed off went home and set the controller to as low as it goes so its running standard pressure again. Anyone know why its doing this?

Regards,

Dan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/97119-boost-controller/
Share on other sites

Have you bypassed the factory boost control? It pumps up the boost like you described (7psi then 9psi) I dont know if it would do the what you said to your manual boost controller but it sounds similar.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/97119-boost-controller/#findComment-1762402
Share on other sites

it sounds like you've plumbed the dual stage incorrectly and when the stock solenoid opens your controller interfers and the actuator doesn't see pressure properly so it basically runs unlimited boost, ie: you will cause damage

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/97119-boost-controller/#findComment-1763096
Share on other sites

thats a possibility i had a talk to a guy who said that with the r33's you needed to take out the standard boost controller all together to run a manual boost controller but he said thats a bad idea? .. i tend to believe him as he has a 550rwhp gtst so he does know his shit

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/97119-boost-controller/#findComment-1763187
Share on other sites

Manuals boost controlers arnt that bad if you dont and a grand to get a good ebc

You don't need a grand to get a good EBC.

The cheapest JDM one is only $450-$500 (GReddy Profec B-Spec 2) and you can find some used ones on sale here on SAU for even less than that.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/97119-boost-controller/#findComment-1763237
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,  I am in the market for an R200 longnose diff out of a Z31 300ZX, or S12 RSX, DR30 skyline, or similar, in a 3.9 ratio.  Preferably a late model one with the M12 crownwheel bolts.  The only easy to find advert for one of these was my ad back in 2007 when I sold it on this forum.  I sold the diff as I had sold the car it goes to, but as it turns out, after 18 years I got the car back late last year, so now I'm looking for the diff !  If anyone knows where to find a longnose R200 LSD with the M12 crownwheel bolts, drop me a line at [email protected] - Bonus paid if soomeone comes up with the original diff (stranger things have happened !).  Cheers   Ben D    
    • Hi everyone, I used to post here a bit from 2004-2013, when I owned various Nissans, in particular my S12 RSX gazelle, which was sold in 2007.  As luck would have it, after an 18 year hiatus, the car found its way back to me last year, and over the past 11 months I have had the pleasure of restoring it with my kids.  One thing that I am after in particular is a 3.9 ratio R200 LSD for it.  I actually sold the one out of the car here back in 2007 , and it would be incredible if I could track down who I sold it to, so I can see how they have progressed over the years (and to be honest, to see whether I can get the diff back !).  Anyways, hi all and let me know "where are the R200 Longnose diffs all at these days ?  Cheers Ben D  
    • Arms will be the same as the G35 or 350Z, but as above, there was a change in the lower control arm where it connects to the ball joint.  That said, you can remove the ball joint cone from your old ball joints and fit them to the new ball joints.  To be honest, I didn't think the ball joints themselves were different. The main ball joint is a bit awkward to replace, you really need to remove the steering knuckle to press out the old one.  Some people have used tools to remove it in place, but it just seemed too hard to get to. If you are going to press out/in that ball joint, then you may as well just replace the bushings in the LCA and the compression rod.  You can buy the compression rod bushing from Nissan, but the LCA bushes, you will need to go aftermarket. Much cheaper than buying the whole arm.
    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
×
×
  • Create New...