Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i will either be using a vl calais or r31 rolling shell or one with shot engin to do this but anyway:.

im getting an R32 front cut

take out the rb30

replace with the RB25deT

take out auto gearbox

replace with R32 5spd

all wired and hooked up, working, checked, legaly passed

this so far i have been quoted for $4500

all i need then is a manual pedal box cos the commadore wont take the skyline one (not sure if the R31 will)

then i will upgrade the breaks for the vl i will use VT breaks (do R32 breaks fit the R31??)

does this pricing sound right?

how many kw would i be looking at ATW ballpark figure?

and how much is an R31 2door rolling shell? just without the engin and geerbox? if i can find one

and one more thing. the vl and the R31 use the same diff? are they strong will i need to upgrade them fairly sharpish?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/97161-r32-front-cut-engin-swap/
Share on other sites

$4500 for the conversion drive in drive out is preety good considering:

25det halfcuts are around $3000 for a goodone

engineeres $500

labour stuffing around with mounts and tailshaft/pedalbox etc.@88/hr realisticly probably about 1.5days work flat out $1000

ps.why is a 25det in a 32 halfcut and why the small32 gearbox? :P

my mate had an rb20det dropped into his auto VL. said it was $2000 for r32 rb20det front cut, and roughly $2000 for labour, drive in drive out deal.

this is the only story ive ever heard, so going by my mate story, your price seems near on track. i dont know any more about his dealings or that with the job.

this was rb20 by the way, if you are getting rb25 in your r32 cut, sounds like an even better deal!

s.

hmm i know im getting the RB25det i might be wrong on the 32 part, maby im getting the 33gtst front cut.

i will probly use my vl i have now, meaning i will have breaks and running gear left over and anything else i will have which wont be usable to upgrade my vl

this will be in 1 years time, when i finish my diploma so parts wont be for a while sorry

btw if this is cheep im getting it from the manager of carline muflers in mt barker who works with jazmac cos they share a big building and if u dont know jazmac they do allot of good tuning. lol he has a s14 record holding AE86 some big toyota VIP sedan his wife has a cerfiro and theirs always a lot of nice cars their getting stuff done.

anyway my point is i didnt know the guy till i started getting srtuff done so its an off the shelf price so anyone can do it, just talk to the owner of carline muflers in mt barker or jazmac in mt barker

or i live here ask me to ask em if its a good deal

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...