Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

im just wondering why i dont see many girls racing at WSID on wednesday nights.

im trying to organise a meet at WSID: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=97042

and think it'd be great to see more of the SAU girls lining up their beasts.

do it.. go to WSID.. DO IT.. DO IT

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/97356-more-ladies-racing-at-wsid/
Share on other sites

you're better off learning on the track than on the streets. give it a go.

lol!

Hey, you don't learn how to drive a manual on a drag strip. She'll race eventually. She's learning very quickly.

she said she doesnt know how to drive manual fast.

which was what i was refering to when i said it would be better off learning on the drag strip, which if you read properly you would've understood.

Ah, ok, I see how you misread it.

I only started to teach her how to drive manual 2 weeks ago when she bought her r32 gtst.

So yeah, you don't learn how to drive manual on a drag strip.

Oh, here's a quote of what she said,

I would go but I'm still learning to drive manual.

well I can drive but not fast.

Stace had never even seen a race track in real life before her first race.....reeled off a 12.4 on her first ever run. C'mon girls you dont know how good you really are till you give it a shot.....BTW practicing on the street will KILL YOU!! Unfortunately i know from experience...dont do it please. See you at WSID.

paul, when will you be coming out to wsid ? or are you waiting until sport compact ?

Yep, just waiting till the 17th Dec event at WSID. Unfortunately we find it too difficult to attend the Wed nite street meets.

Can regular Wed nite Street meet participants please tell me what the average number of runs per nite you can get??

Oh, I think it was misread there Security.

She's still learning to drive a manual. She's been driving manual for 2 weeks. She's not trying to drive fast on the road. She's learning how to shift, what gears to be in, etc. Not learning how to race.

Some people like to learn how to drive a manual, before they try and drive their newly bought manual car on a track. She was an auto only driver before like some others, but she wanted to learn, and she's doing brilliantly. I just don't want her to take the car on a drag strip yet where she'll be encouraged to go fast and might end up destroying her gearbox or damaging her engine.

2 weeks into driving a manual is way too soon! It's not like an auto where all you do is put your foot down.

I wouldn't mind a few runs.....but so hard to get away from work on a wednesday arvo

maybe in the new year...

but it has to be soon, I've thrown down too many challenges which are yet to be backed up! lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, Step 3, if you need to remove the valve body, either to replace it, the TCM, or to do a more complete drain.  First, you need to disconnect the TCM input wires, they are about half way up the transmission on the drivers side. One plug and the wires are out of the way, but there is also a spring clip that stops the socket from sliding back into the transmission. On my car the spring clip was easy to get, but the socket was really stuck in the o-ring of the transmission housing and took some.....persuasion. You can see both the plug to remove (first) and the spring clip (second) in this pic Incidentally, right next to the plug, you can see where the casting has allowance for a dispstick/filler which Nissan decided not to provide. there is a cap held on with a 6mm head bolt that you can remove to overfill it (AMS recommend a 1.5l overfill). Final step before the big mess, remove the speed sensor that is clipped to the valve body at the rear of the box.  Then removal of the Valve Body. For this the USDM Q50 workshop manual has a critical diagram: There are a billion bolts visible. Almost all of them do not need to be removed, just the 14 shown on the diagram. Even so, I both removed one extra, and didn't check which length bolt came from which location (more on that later....). Again it is worth undoing the 4 corners first, but leaving them a couple of turns in to hold the unit up....gravity is not your friend here and trans oil will be going everywhere. Once the corners are loose but still in remove all the other 10 bolts, then hold the valve body up with 1 hand while removing the final 4. Then, everything just comes free easily, or like in my case you start swearing because that plug is stuck in the casing. Done, the valve body and TCM are out
    • OK, so if you are either going for the bigger fluid change or are changing the valve body which includes the Transmission Control Module (TCM), first you should have both a new gasket 31397-1XJ0A and a torque wrench that can work down to 8Nm (very low, probably a 1/4 drive one). You can probably get by without either, but I really didn't want to pull it all apart together due to a leak. First, you now need that big oil pan. The transmission pan is 450 long x 350 wide, and it will probably leak on all sides, so get ready for a mess. There are 24x 6mm headed bolts holding the pan on. I undid the 2 rear corners, then screwed those bolts back in a couple of turns to let the pan go low at that end, then removed all the middle bolts on each side. Then, undo the front corner bolts slowly while holding the pan up, and 80% of the fluid will head out the rear. From there, remove the remaining bolts and the pan is off. You can see it is still dripping oil absolutely everywhere...it dripped all night.... I got another couple of litres when I removed the pan, and then another few when I removed the valve body - all up another 4l on top of the 3 already dropped in step 1.
    • Yeh I think i'll message an old contact i had for ages that manages his own tyre shop now.. n tell him what i want n work with him before ordering..  Got this 17x9 +30 Driftteks on 245/45/17 PSR Drag Radials on the rear.. They fit well - for your reference in future - Rear guards  have been lipped in & minimal to non flaring of the rear Gaurds.    
    • If only it were that easy! I also needed to remove seats, shocks, brake calipers, send my car through a fence, and use measuring and ended up guessing because I didn't remove seats, shocks and brake calipers. It can be hard sometimes Can be a little more complex than 'just measure' if you want to truly measure the entire wheel through all of it's suspension travel. But if you aren't going for every last mm then yeah, you can check the space you currently have and guesstimate.
    • If you own a car, and it has wheels on it, and you know the offset of those wheels, and you have a measuring device, you have everything you need to work out if other wheels will fit.
×
×
  • Create New...