Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The gearbox should be good for about 500hp, after that your living on borrowed time. There are some replacement gear sets, or you could nitride your gears to give them extra strength. Anything more than 500hp will severly push the limits of the drivetrain.

See'ya:burnout:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9736-which-rods/page/3/#findComment-165600
Share on other sites

  • Replies 53
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

You will definately need a decent clutch, the driveline should be fine as long as you are not into hard launches, which I assume you are not into if you are chasing bottom end and a nice wide torque curve.

The only reason I say the rb25de head instead of the rb25det is that the det has vvt on the inlet, and if you want torque, your best off getting cam gears, therefore de head rather than det.

Something else to think about - if you get head and block, you can get the work done - which will take weeks- while your car is on the road. To fit the 3040, you will need a custom manifold and wastegate and a new dump pipe - so the stock one wont be of much use to you. Ultimately, being stuck with a whole heap of parts isnt much use to you - IMHO it would be alot easier to sell the old motor as compete as possible, you could even take a prospective buyer for a test drive and let a mechanic check it out, then when the other engine is ready, swap them over.

I am absolutely not saying that you need to use the rb25de head instead of the rb25det, just some food for thought

steve

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9736-which-rods/page/3/#findComment-165702
Share on other sites

The rb25de head has slightly more aggressive cams, and although they would be replaced in the end they might be a bit better in the short term.

500rwhp, but hard lauches with slicks will kill it sooner than that. A minimum of a twin-plate clutch will be needed.

See'ya:burnout:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9736-which-rods/page/3/#findComment-165708
Share on other sites

hahaha... thank Merli. I've got an OS Twin in there now and it's sweet. Don't know if i should delve into the RB30 block. At the end of the day i'll be up for some $$$ doing the clutch and gearbox all the time. I might do the Skyline up nicely and get a buzz box like an RX3 or R100 13B Turbo.

With the oil galleries on the RB25DET head, are they the ones for Variable Cam Timing? Is that worth keeping for the trouble of doing all the welding and drilling etc?

Thanks Steve, i'm on there now having a look!

Andrew

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9736-which-rods/page/3/#findComment-166028
Share on other sites

Merli,

I have the same feeling about the triples, great if your never going to drive the car on the street, but useless if you are. My OS twin is sprung and is very easy to drive, but twins will still take a pounding, but I think I'd rather repair it than drive with a triple.

See'ya:burnout:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9736-which-rods/page/3/#findComment-166075
Share on other sites

Merli, your not the first guy I have heard making similar comments about triple plate v's twin. Hoping I never have to go down that path.

GTS-t VSPEC, I think that one of the gtrs SST have built with approx 540hp (at the wheels?) uses a hks twin plate, but that is a circuit car - spose it depends on how hard you drop the thing off the mark, have you tried to 'drive' off the line like they do with huge hp gtrs? I'm working on that myself, and if you get it right you can get off the line very quickly - even a bit easier to control wheel spin. Might save you a box rebuild too, once the hp starts rising further? I am currently running a 9 button ceramic ferride with 2500lb pressure plate and at 203rwkw havent had the slightest sign of slippage (probably a bit early) - hope it holds on a little longer......

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9736-which-rods/page/3/#findComment-166128
Share on other sites

Steve,

For the drags I have been slipping the clutch rather than dropping it, it is the slipping which kills them. I know the car you are talking about, and agree that a twin is ample in most cases, even if it need the occasional rebuild.

See'ya:burnout:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9736-which-rods/page/3/#findComment-166553
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...