Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

sorry Gary you may be right. i remember though that when it was introduced the duty was dropped from 15% to 10% with a view to making it 0% in the future. I'm not sure what the time frame was though, it may have happend already.

but regardless of the actual rule the collection of taxes on small, low volume importing is a bit haphazzard.

  • Replies 119
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Is that 105 kg of rotating weight?

You really need to compare the cost per KG in reference to say, wheels.

Would you spend $2,500 to save 2.5kgs per wheel?

Doesn't seem unreasonable to me when compared to the price of a set of Volks.

:D cheers :(

what does it matter...its sprung weight?? please tell me the difference, in a drag car we need as much inertia in the drive line we can get...thats why i run a VL atmo flywheel, its nice and heavy. The example you used is a wheel...this is unsprung weight and not a sensible example to use.

i have prepreged yacht masts in carbon that held up to 12 tonnes but they never had much twist this was allways the cause of them faulting. i would also like to see one that snapped and where it faulted

Edited by xr8eater
what does it matter...its sprung weight?? please tell me the difference, in a drag car we need as much inertia in the drive line we can get...thats why i run a VL atmo flywheel, its nice and heavy. The example you used is a wheel...this is unsprung weight and not a sensible example to use.

The wheel is a 'driven' rotational mass that is connected to the engine/drivetrain.Engine -flywheel-gearbox-tailshaft-diff-wheels.

Weight reductions in this area reduce inertia significantly. This is why it is not just 'unsprung weight'. This is why race cars like light wheels.

The extra inertia you have sought in the heavier flywheel was often used to assist overcoming issues of rev matching and bogging down with low amounts of power and large amounts of grip. I would lean towards turfing the cast iron (read very weak by comparison to chromemolly) flywheel and trying launch control, if off the line horsepower is the issue. Or turfing it in favour of very heavy steel rims (if you really must increase the weight which I don't agree with) ,the rolling intertia and extra weight potential is better than the slightly heavier RB30de flywheel. Contrary to old wives tales there is no loss of torque going lighter.

It would suprise me very greatly if you didn't improve your accelleration times by approaching the issue of reducing the rotational inertia. So far it is only my humble opinion that you might have gone the wrong way here? (and perhaps only here)

I hope that adds some usefull info for you, please feel fee to PM if you would like to question things a little more, I am very happy to try and help :)

Edited by rev210
what does it matter...its sprung weight?? please tell me the difference, in a drag car we need as much inertia in the drive line we can get...thats why i run a VL atmo flywheel, its nice and heavy. The example you used is a wheel...this is unsprung weight and not a sensible example to use.

Newtons law in action.

To accelerate the car, first the engine must accelerate the rotating assemblies. That's everything in between the harmonic balancer and the tyre. The lighter you make them, the less power is absorbed accelerating the rotating parts and the more power there is left over to accelerate the car.

Try it for yourself, jack the car up and free rev the engine with the clutch in. Then stick it in 4th gear as it is 1 to 1, sorry 5th gear in your case, you have close ratio gears. Compare how much slower the engine revs, because it has to accelerate all of the rotating parts.

Heavy components are useful for holding rpm, because they store kinetic energy. But when acceleration (or deceleration) is important you want the lightest rotating mass you can achieve.

:P cheers :D

good to see that someone still remember Physics.

Yes you are absolutely correct sk. The further they are away from the centre of the rotation the more inertia also.

DiRTgarage, your heavier flywheel helps your launch because it has more momentum than a lighter one. Your propshaft however does not spin until you launch :P So the heavier it is the more bog you may have.

Edited by 9krpm

cool...thanks guys for the lesson. i think ill still save my $$ and spend them elsewhere. We find that the heavy flywheel assists with launch and 60' times as well as slightly assisting with gearchanges. In the 1.4's with 60' and nearly into 9's with the ET's so we must be doing something right. Think ill have more of a benefit with a $3000 NOS setup than a bling tailshaft though.

cool...thanks guys for the lesson. i think ill still save my $$ and spend them elsewhere. We find that the heavy flywheel assists with launch and 60' times as well as slightly assisting with gearchanges. In the 1.4's with 60' and nearly into 9's with the ET's so we must be doing something right. Think ill have more of a benefit with a $3000 NOS setup than a bling tailshaft though.

ok.

Back on topic then.

I got an email from James Martin the product manager at ACPT regarding some of the questions and rumours raised in this thread..

He very kindly responded in the email as follows;

We have 2 applications for all the Skyline models. The smaller

application will handle up to 800hp, and the bigger application will

handle over 2000hp. So if you order a shaft we will need to know what

size you want. Also, the bigger shaft is about $200.00 more than the

price that I quoted you earlier. ACPT has been making the Skyline

shafts for years and we do not require the stock shafts. We have been

making the driveshafts for Nismo and Trust for a while now and this is

why we don't need your stock measurements (unless you have a different

rear end or transmission than the stock application.) The person

claming to have broken 2 of our shafts bought the smaller shaft because

it was cheaper and was hoping that it would work. This is why we have 2

applications, if you have under 800hp and you do not plan on exceeding

this much horsepower, than the smaller application is for you. If you

know that you will exceed 800hp, then you will need to use the larger

application. If he had something rubbing on the shaft like an exhaust

bracket or a sway bar, that would have caused it to break as well. ACPT

is the original maker of the carbon driveshaft over 20 years ago. Also,

ACPT is not a driveline shop; we are an aerospace company that typically

builds parts for rockets, space shuttles, government assault vehicles,

ECT... The same engineers that develop the parts for the aerospace

companies are the same engineers that work on the driveshafts. All ACPT

deals with is composites and all of our driveshafts are built in house

including the winding of the driveshaft tubing. I do not know much

about the UK company making a carbon shaft other than it looks really

pretty (but you will never see it underneath you car) and it is really

expensive. If I am not mistaken, I believe our driveshaft is about half

the price of their shaft and is proven to handle what ever kind of

horsepower you can get out of your car.

I got an email from James Martin the product manager at ACPT regarding some of the questions and rumours raised in this thread..

Hi rev210

The Guy that i was dealing with at ACPT was called Peter it is funny

because when i asked them i had to send the 2 ends from my shaft

and they only made one size,they were going to look at making a large

shaft and get back to me,i never heard from them again.

Keith

This is a bit off topic I guess, but.... how can you say a lightened flywheel doesn't cause driveability issues.  You could say that in your case (and probably many other cases) it hasn't.  But, if you are passing on accurate information to those who haven't had experience, then you should add that a lightened flywheel "can" cause issues.  Consider the basic physics.  Using an extreme case to illustrate the point -  If there were no flywheel the engine would have very little momentum and trying to get the clutch out (from a standing start) without stalling would be nearly impossible.   

Things that will affect whether driveability is impacted by a lightened flywheel are:

1. How much lighter the flywheel is, and

2. What type of clutch you are using

I have a 5.5kg billet flywheel and a fairly bitey 5 puck clutch and the difference is quite noticeable.  It is a track car, so I don't care.  I personally would not use the same configuration for the street, as I would find it annoying to use in traffic.

Exactly, I had a lightened flywheel in my car, it shit me on the street, when going slow, couldn't go below 2000rpm without the car shuddering/labouring.... im back to a stock flywheel now.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
    • The video for the servicing and fuel filter change can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44 One of the main jobs I wanted to do before the car officially went on the road, was to remove the awful looking blue silicone hoses. There's nothing wrong with having coloured silicone hoses, but I realise as I'm getting older I prefer monotone engine bays with a splash of colour on the engine cover(s). I cover this in a lot more detail in the Youtube video, so unfortunately there's limited photos of the process. The intercooler, upper radiator, boost vacuum and upper breather hoses were all changed to black silicone with mikalor clamps. The only blue left is a blanking cap at the back of the inlet manifold and the GReddy pulleys (which will be replaced for stock when the cambelt gets replaced) While the intercooler pipes were off I gave them a quick clean/polish too A before photo I do have a replacement air filter on its way. Fuse box covers were painted blue, they're now satin black Another job on the list while the bumper was off, is to add some mesh https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737966256_99b28bfa30_c.jpg[/img] I was hoping to use some thin wire to secure it, but it seems I've misplaced it and the wire I had was too thick to twist easily. I ended up using cable ties for the time being https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737131882_c2b7989dcc_c.jpg[/img] Was pleasant to see this https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737131627_8b2aab13b3_c.jpg[/img] The last thing to do was to fix the front grill and re-mesh that to match but I ran out of time The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R4FsF6tgizE&t=23s
×
×
  • Create New...