Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I see there are a few people commenting who actually don't have any experience with either a lightweight flywheel or tail shaft.

Neither the lightweight flywheel nor the tail shaft cause drivabillity issues.

Thats from experience.

Keep thinking about it. and then ask someone who builds race cars.

This is a bit off topic I guess, but.... how can you say a lightened flywheel doesn't cause driveability issues. You could say that in your case (and probably many other cases) it hasn't. But, if you are passing on accurate information to those who haven't had experience, then you should add that a lightened flywheel "can" cause issues. Consider the basic physics. Using an extreme case to illustrate the point - If there were no flywheel the engine would have very little momentum and trying to get the clutch out (from a standing start) without stalling would be nearly impossible.

Things that will affect whether driveability is impacted by a lightened flywheel are:

1. How much lighter the flywheel is, and

2. What type of clutch you are using

I have a 5.5kg billet flywheel and a fairly bitey 5 puck clutch and the difference is quite noticeable. It is a track car, so I don't care. I personally would not use the same configuration for the street, as I would find it annoying to use in traffic.

  • Replies 119
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

I have just got info back from Jame Martin the product manager at ACPT.

They have off the shelf designs for R33, R33 & R34 GTR tail shafts. The price including shipping to Australia is $2,160 Aussie dollars for just one, I am sure we can get it a tad cheaper again if we group buy.

This makes it half the price of the jap units and more than attractive enough as a modification when you consider that there aren't too many mods for $2k that are as good as the accelleration you are going to pick up from one of these bad boys.

I shouldn't go on but the mines  R34 is equiped with carbon tail shaft and it is quite a big reason behind the 'response' of the car.

Here is one test of a rotational mass reduction on a V8 setup, the big thing to note is the massive reduction in time taken to achieve both maximum horsepower and torque once weight is taken out, that boys is accelleration increases. Note this is taken in 4th gear under load.

http://www.vetteweb.com/tech/0407vet_flywheel/

Group buy anyone ? :D

id be in that group buy for sure!!!

This is a bit off topic I guess, but.... how can you say a lightened flywheel doesn't cause driveability issues.  You could say that in your case (and probably many other cases) it hasn't.  But, if you are passing on accurate information to those who haven't had experience, then you should add that a lightened flywheel "can" cause issues.  Consider the basic physics.  Using an extreme case to illustrate the point -  If there were no flywheel the engine would have very little momentum and trying to get the clutch out (from a standing start) without stalling would be nearly impossible.   

Things that will affect whether driveability is impacted by a lightened flywheel are:

1. How much lighter the flywheel is, and

2. What type of clutch you are using

I have a 5.5kg billet flywheel and a fairly bitey 5 puck clutch and the difference is quite noticeable.  It is a track car, so I don't care.  I personally would not use the same configuration for the street, as I would find it annoying to use in traffic.

I know and I understand what you are saying.

Sorry I do need to clarify;

1) IF you own an RB powered skyline

2) IF your flywheel is heavier than 3kg, My friends and I have had one a good kilo lighter than yours and it's traffic behaviour is like stock.

3) IF it has been correctly balanced from manufacturing

Satisfy these and generally what I said is absolutely true.

Your 'puck' clutch is your problem it has nothing to do with the flywheel weight of 5.5kg. They (puck cltuches) are always either 'on' or 'off' with the slight exeption being if they have a sprung center.

Hi Guys

When I was talking with ACPT last year about making me one of their carbon shaft's

they could not tell me if there shaft could take the power that my car was putting out.

Mario also posted on the UK GTR site saying that he had snapped 2 of the ACPT

carbon shafts on hearing this I did not order from them in the end.

The Carbon shaft on my car is made in the UK by www.ctgltd.co.uk

If you look on my site I have a group buy set up www.keithcowie.com

I have not had a chance to try the propshaft on the drag strip yet

but they say that there carbon shaft is miles stronger than the std shaft

S2020007.jpg

S2020001.jpg

S2020008.jpg

S2020005.jpg

S2020006.jpg

Hi Guys

When I was talking with ACPT last year about making me one of their carbon shaft's

they could not tell me if there shaft could take the power that my car was putting out.

Mario also posted on the UK GTR site saying that he had snapped 2 of the ACPT

carbon shafts on hearing this I did not order from them in the end.

The Carbon shaft on my car is made in the UK by www.ctgltd.co.uk

If you look on my site I have a group buy set up www.keithcowie.com

I have not had a chance to try the propshaft on the drag strip yet

but they say that there carbon shaft is miles stronger than the std shaft

I wonder how I would go about fitting one to an R32GTST?

Something I have never done, tried fitting a GTR tailshaft to a 2wd gearbox.

Damn, I feel a measuring session coming on.

:blink: cheers :)

At over $2500 plus duty + freight he can keep em....over $3000 to knock 10kg out of a car...i just removed 105kg...thats nearly worth $32 000.

good point, duty would be a killa, i think its about 10 or 15% of the value of the idea plus some other stuff :)

Might as well buy from some japan dealer and get them to put its a gift and mark the price as only 12,000yen so it doesnt get tax :blink:

At over $2500 plus duty + freight he can keep em....over $3000 to knock 10kg out of a car...i just removed 105kg...thats nearly worth $32 000.

Is that 105 kg of rotating weight?

You really need to compare the cost per KG in reference to say, wheels.

Would you spend $2,500 to save 2.5kgs per wheel?

Doesn't seem unreasonable to me when compared to the price of a set of Volks.

:blink: cheers :)

Might as well buy from some japan dealer and get them to put its a gift and mark the price as only 12,000yen so it doesnt get tax :blink:

Not such a good idea if it snaps :)

• Mass 5.9Kg saving over 10Kg

• Failure load in excess of 4000Nm

• Utilising lightened LJ109 CV joint

• Heavy duty 1310 series UJ

• Machined from billet yokes

The price i got from ACPT was the same price as the one fitted to my car.

Then i had to transport it in from the usa and pay the duty on it.

they also wanted my old shaft so that they could cut off the ends then

fit them to there carbon shaft.

Keith

Edited by keith cowie

I'll make some more inquiries with ACPT but, they indicated a supplied shaft to my door without any measuring, they have already done R32,33 and 34 shafts so they don't need to remeasure them.

As for duty is the US free trade agreement is good for anything?

DiRTgarage,

You didn't just have a few beers before you typed that one? :P

Keith,

Sounds interesting.

I wonder how I would go about fitting one to an R32GTST?

Something I have never done, tried fitting a GTR tailshaft to a 2wd gearbox.

Damn, I feel a measuring session coming on.

:D cheers :D

one of my main problems too sk lol

yes free trade agreement means duty is dropped from 15% to 10% + 10% GST. IF it is levied.

Everything I have brought in from the US since the FTA was introduced has been duty free, only 10% GST has been added, sometimes.

:D cheers :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ok so if i wanted to go 18's i would go for 8's  in front 30+ or 32+ off set at front and the back 9 would be ok? what offset should i aim for.. then can i do some  hunting for wheel rim choices..   
    • Absolute f*cking nightmare. I had to take breaks constantly, and I was always pissed off when I got home. The line split in Italy on day 2 (we drove from the Netherlands), lol. Driving any narrow European town was... well, sh*t.   Appreciate it man. Here, I'll just drop a favourite from the load I took on Saturday.   I'll update here when things happen with the car, the thing is, with stock power and almost everything chassis-wise taken care of, there really are no problems. 268,000kms now and counting.  
    • Ah! I actually managed to snag a lightly used set.... that aren't so suitable for me right now. They don't work on a GTT without some cutting or creative heat moulding. I thought about reselling them myself cause I didn't want to murder them, but it looks like I'm probably going to attempt to murder them/melt them because I may as well. @GTSBoy @PranK can somebody close this thread?
    • Hey mate,  I have a set, one is slightly damaged but wont be noticable once installed.  Shoot me a message if your still after them 
    • I couldn't wait But, the black constant tension hose clamps were too thick and there wasn't enough clearance at the T/B and I couldn't get it to seat properly, so I had use a silver one there I also added some 3" silicone over the alloy bit that goes through to hole on the radiator support as it looked like it was sitting on the edge of the hole in the radiator support, I never noticed a rattle or anything, but there was a witness mark It is basicly done, and I can live with the silver hose clamp at the T/B, I will get a black clamp for the head vent though where it is attached to the bulkhead fitting  It never stops...LOL, only issue now with the shock tower brace is it slightly touches the under bonnet liner now, if I leave it it will either wear some paint off the brace where it touches, or damage the liner, so I removed the liner to see what I have to work with, with the liner removed I have about 20mm of clearance, but sadly the middle part of the underside of the bonnet is only dusted with paint and looks crap, so I cannot have that, but.... as I have a roll of Carbuilders premium under bonnet insulation in the garage laying around that is only 5.5mm thick (we were going to use it on the boys Patrol, but he crashed the front of it a few months and it was written off, hence why he now drives my old Honda Accord Euro), I'll use the OEM liner as a template and get the Carbuilders stuff fitted up to cover that dusted paint up
×
×
  • Create New...