Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

My name is Jake and i am a new member to this forum...

I have owned a 1994 R33 Series 1 Skyline GTS-T for about a year and half and i am most impressed with the car...

However due to a family arriving within 8 months i need to sell my pride and joy

I just curious about how much it could be sold for & Also to sell the car... Here are the Mods done to it..

- Apexi Power FC + Controller

- Apexi AVCR (Electronic Boost Controller)-(Black Limited Edition)

- Front-Mount Intercooler

- K&N Pod Filter

- Full 3 & A Half Inch MOMO Exhaust

- After-Market Larger Turbo

- 115,000 Kms

- Front Body Kit & Side Skirts

- 19 by 8 Inch rims (Dolce DC-6)

- Momo Steering Wheel

- Boost & Air/Fuel Ratio Gauges

- GTR Dash

- RAZO Shifter & Pedals

- Advan Tuned

- NIZMO Blue Colour

- Pioneer 4 x 6" Splits, Pioneer 4 Channel AMP & A Fusion 10" Sub

- 290 At The Wheels

The Car is in NSW just south of Sydney...

If any1 is interested please Contact me on:

[email protected] OR

0421545240 at any time

(if pics dont come up cbecause i not computer proficient pleas just e-mail me and i will send you pics personally

post-25223-1133921555.jpg

post-25223-1133921493.jpg

post-25223-1133921528.jpg

post-25223-1133921582.jpg

post-25223-1133921609.jpg

post-25223-1133921639.jpg

post-25223-1133921666.jpg

post-25223-1133921695.jpg

post-25223-1133921719.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/97653-r33-for-sale/
Share on other sites

SELLING PRICE IS $21,000

the price is negotiable for serious bidders...

if interested please either PM or E-mail me at [email protected] or mobile 0421545240....

There are a few more mod not mentioned in previous area, if interested just ask...

Car needs to be sold as need a family car now.... :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/97653-r33-for-sale/#findComment-1772553
Share on other sites

nice car mate, if i saw it abot 2 months ago i would have considered it, but just picked up my s2 and already started moddingit :)

GL with sale...

290 at the wheels is awsome, i got the same mods, air flow converter, boost controler, fmic and 3" exhaust and its only 175@10psi, but i got stock turbo....did the turbo make the diff? or wat other mods u do if u dont mind me asking :D

vange

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/97653-r33-for-sale/#findComment-1791809
Share on other sites

Hey man,

This car hasnt been on sale 2 months ago... First time to try and sell...Been on forums for bout a week now... Just after a sale so i can get a family car...

The new turbo did make the difference... Put the 550cc Nismo injectors in and the power just pounded out at the wheels (without injectors the power was 290hp at the wheels, with turbo and injectors all hooked up was well over 360hp At the wheels i think, i cannot find power read at the moment)... new turbo and the injectors really did help the power output... Really everything has just been put in in last 3 months (Power FC, AVCR etc.) all except the turbo (been in about 1 year)...

So car is pretty damn fast so i am sad to sell it..

but it has to be done... i have alot of cosmetic mods done to it (gauges, GTR dash, momo steering wheel, etc.) but the turbo and ECU upgrades make it a nice fast and good looking car...

You got 290 a ATW, is that KW or HP?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/97653-r33-for-sale/#findComment-1792065
Share on other sites

i dunno what my power read is at the moment mainly cause i cannot find the sheet anymore :D

i think it round 360hp ATW with the 550cc injectors...

Anyway fast car for sale still... any1 keen then hit me up!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/97653-r33-for-sale/#findComment-1794144
Share on other sites

honestly i am not totally sure....

yet my mehanic says it is about 2 sizes up from the factory turbo... was a mod from nissan back before i had it imported... only imported 1 year 1 month...

23K km's on turbo..

if interested just msg...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/97653-r33-for-sale/#findComment-1799805
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...