Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

WRONG

Quality Japanese Gauges have the ability to warn you at a preset point so you know without looking at the gauge if something isn't right. They also have peak hold functions which store the highest value the gauge got to in a given period of time. Particularly useful for circuit use so you can check how the car was performing throughout your laps. Also the big advantage of the Defi Link System is that you can record the behaviour of your gauges for the laps that you do so you can check to make sure that boost is building properly, none of the values are overshooting abnomally etc...

WRONG

Quality Japanese Gauges have the ability to warn you at a preset point so you know without looking at the gauge if something isn't right. They also have peak hold functions which store the highest value the gauge got to in a given period of time. Particularly useful for circuit use so you can check how the car was performing throughout your laps. Also the big advantage of the Defi Link System is that you can record the behaviour of your gauges for the laps that you do so you can check to make sure that boost is building properly, none of the values are overshooting abnomally etc...

Defi aren't the only brand of Quality Japanese Gauges

what a waste of money :D

Actually they are a much more accurate and responsive then Autometre and other brands. Also Preset Warn Functions and Peak hold Functions.

In my case i need an electric oil pressure gauge that gos to 140 PSI and unfprtunately in the Autometre range there is not one made. In fact the only brand i can find is Defi that make an Electric gauge that goes to 140PSI

So no, its not a waste of money,

And dark, you may be after a wank factor, but Defi definately wont give you that,, i Suggest you try something else. Maybe something you know a little more about??

Actually they are a much more accurate and responsive then Autometre and other brands.  Also Preset Warn Functions and Peak hold Functions.

In my case i need an electric oil pressure gauge that gos to 140 PSI and unfprtunately in the Autometre range there is not one made. In fact the only brand i can find is Defi that make an Electric gauge that goes to 140PSI

So no, its not a waste of money,

And dark, you may be after a wank factor, but Defi definately wont give you that,, i Suggest you try something else. Maybe something you know a little more about??

So, you have to go buy a $300 gauge that has a black face when its off, and then lights up when its on to have an accurate gauge?

Why not buy HKS chrono gauges, or pivot gekko gauges or blitz id gauges, or apexi el2 gauges..?

because there's not that much of a price difference between them mate. Get your facts straight before you go giving people shit about the stuff they want to buy for their cars. Pest

(Using Boost as an example)

Trust - 23,100 Yen (Control Unit - 13,650Yen) TOTAL: 36,750Yen

HKS - 26,040Yen (Control Unit - 13,650Yen) TOTAL: 39,690Yen

Defi - 25,200 Yen (Control Unit - 11,340Yen) TOTAL: 36,540Yen

Defi comes out the cheapest.

nice show of ignorance, try to get some idea about what your talking about before trying to belittle others and calling them names

defi are CHEAPER then most other JAP brand ELECTRONIC gauges, do a search and you will see HKS, Greddy, and Apexi are ALL more expensive then what you can get DEFI's for.

mech ones are illegal bar boost gauge so there prices dont count. autometer are innacurate as shit, so you wouldnt bother with them at all

they have peak hold, playback (aka datalogging) and peak warning with audible alert. they are a sub branch of the SEIKO company.

rice ? no, just your lack of knowledge

Control Unit

APEXi - EL2 System Control Unit AU $ 84.91

Defi - Link - Controller unit II AU $ 97.02

HKS - I/F Unit AU $ 131.43

Blitz - Live Unit II Racing MeterAU $ 143.52

Boost Gauge

APEXi - EL 2 Electrical Boost Gauge AU $ 188.34

Defi - Turbo Meter 60mm AU $ 221.76

HKS - HKS DB Electronic Boost Meter AU $ 251.43

Blitz - Racing Meter DC II Boost AU $ 203.28

No, Defi does not come out the cheapest.

well, a dyno said my car was rnning 10psi, my autometer guage says im running 10psi, soooo, i think it works jsut fine, and was under $100

face it,you jsut want it for wank factor,

the autometer comp guages, work just as good, do the sae thing, and are liquid filled aswell, at half the price, and dont look so gay.

if autometer r so inaccurate then y do 99% of drag racers use them???? they run on the limit of engine stress and the info on the gauges is vital so i dont think autometer would be inaccurate maybe just not as fancy lookin and without recall stuff.

The way I see it, Defi gauges are like GT wings. If you actually have a use for the extra functionality, then yes there are benefits to them. But, for 99% of people using them on the street, they're purely for wank value.

Having warnings, peak holds and replays are great for tuning / track work where you might want to see what was happening with your engine but you had to keep your eyes somewhere else.

Unless your ECU has full logging / telemetry (full house drag cars would, hence them not needing gauges that can recall...just gauges that can display) then this would come in handy.

I'm not referring specifically to the BF gauges with the wanky "startup dance" - but just Defi gauges with a control box in general. Other Jap gauges can offer the same setup, so in the end it just comes down to personal preference or what matches your interior...

the ease of hooking up defi's in the car is a reason alone u buy them the daisy chain allows u to hook up up to 6 gauges in a neat way. defi's being a wank factor??? what about all the boys with there chrome bezelled autometer's on the bonnet??? now thats wank factor.... electronic or mechanical... i know what i'll go for.

give him abreak... he just asked if anyone had defi gauges and where to buy... ffs.

Thanks Sean,

i guess not all the people on here are running 500hp @ Wheels and wouldnt understand the benefits of a defi gauge over autometer, the benefits they have in helping not lose a $30k motor on the drag strip or circuit or even on the street. Also when doing road tunes. Not to mention the reason i first wanted defi (only brand that make a 140psi electric oil pres. gauge).

To the average person who has a standard ride with a front mount they may seem like a wank factor.

As Dark pointed out Defi are the 2nd cheapest Jap brand on the market and in my opinion the best.

Like i mentioned i was asking if anyone knew where i could get defi gauges from. So thanks to the people who helped, and well to the people who knew nothing and thought they were "wank factor" you need to do a little more research before you start knocking gauges you know nothing about.

well, a dyno said my car was rnning 10psi, my  autometer guage says im running 10psi, soooo, i think it works jsut fine, and was under $100

face it,you jsut want it for wank factor,

the autometer comp guages, work just as good, do the sae thing, and are liquid filled aswell, at half the price, and dont look so gay.

Actually mate no i dont.

As i have quoted a few times i need a oil pres gauge that goes to 140psi, which is the first reasion i started looking at Defi. Once i saw the features thats the gauges i wanted.

Your car runs 10psi on the dyno, mine runs 22psi on pump fuel and 500hp at the wheels.

If something like this gauge will contribute to helping tune and not lose a motor to me its worth it.

So your opinion is wank factor, maybe your ride has no performance which is why you think its wank factor. When you get into performance cars you will understand the need and peace of mind of things like gauges with these features.

Actually mate no i dont.

As i have quoted a few times i need a oil pres gauge that goes to 140psi, which is the first reasion i started looking at Defi. Once i saw the features thats the gauges i wanted.

Your car runs 10psi on the dyno, mine runs 22psi on pump fuel and 500hp at the wheels.

If something like this gauge will contribute to helping tune and not lose a motor to me its worth it.

So your opinion is wank factor, maybe your ride has no performance which is why you think its wank factor. When you get into performance cars you will understand the need and peace of mind of things like gauges with these features.

these drag cars run over 2000-3000hp and u think they are just trying to save a few bucks buying autometer, bah yer right ;)

not saying defi r shit or a ripoff im just saying autometer aint shit

a 3000hp engine running over 10 000rpm with 7L capacity is what they get used on so they aint that bad. autometer r the most reputable brand in the world for gauges and in the racing scene.

i like defi gauges. and i admit it may be because i'm a wanker. but i don't really give a shit, because i like them, simple as that. having said that i have a boost gauge in the GTR. I've looked at it about twice (when setting the boost levels). never looked at it since. though i do have a peak hold function on the profec b II and i do look at that so i guess it's not really a fair comparison.

Control Unit

APEXi - EL2 System Control Unit  AU $ 84.91

Defi - Link - Controller unit II AU $ 97.02

HKS - I/F Unit                  AU $ 131.43

Blitz - Live Unit II Racing MeterAU $ 143.52

Boost Gauge

APEXi - EL 2 Electrical Boost Gauge AU $ 188.34

Defi - Turbo Meter 60mm            AU $ 221.76

HKS - HKS DB Electronic Boost Meter AU $ 251.43

Blitz - Racing Meter DC II Boost    AU $ 203.28

No, Defi does not come out the cheapest.

AUD Prices on this stuff is not really relevant in this argument as first of all you haven't told us who your source is. Look at my prices and look at the relevant comapnies websites and you will see they are exactly the same as what the manufacture reccomends. Your prices however could have come from anywhere and don't factor into account dodgy sellers who avoid customs duty and defraud the tax department by marking down product values and so forth. If you want to use AUd as you argument I suggest you contact the authorised distributor of each product for a FULL retail price onthe items before comparing prices. You will find there is not much of a difference between the major japanese electronic gauges.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...