Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I bought a 2nd hand rebuilt T3/T4 Hybrid by Garrett off a friend "http://www.jshop.com.au"

anyway I need help to take the turbo off I have the head shild off and the pipes and shit off.

I need to know where to go from here as from when I look at it the screws are in shit house pos, and some seem to be blocked by the turbo.

Also some of the screws are not comming loose I guess a little CRC on them will help and a little knock with the hammer to get the rust out.

can somebody please guide me...

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/98048-need-a-little-help/
Share on other sites

unscrew the oil drain clamps from underneath the turbo - that ones easy

then use a socket set to get the other 3 eye bolts off (oil in, water in/out) not much oil will come out but coolant will spew out

the water line at the top/back of the housing next to the exhaust manifold is the hardest to access, i unscrewed the 4 turbo to ex manifold bolts most of the thread so the turbo came forward a bit to give room to get a socket/ratchet back there

then i actually undid the two bolts on the flange between the front pipe and cat and took the turbo/front pipe all off like a snake out the engine bay :P did this cause the 6 bolts onto the dump looked easier to get off with more room

yeh the ones to the dump seem to snap a bit (didnt for me) but i found those 6 pretty easy cause i had the whole turbo/dump out of the car to take them off, i replaced all those studs/nuts when the new turbo went on might be a good idea (from gcg)

the 4 nuts to the ex manifold come off pretty easy with 17mm ring spanner they wont be a prob

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...