Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all...

Just in the process of rebuilding my motor.

2 questions...

1..... Should I use 'running in' oil for the first 1000kms or so?

2..... What is a good grade of oil to use for the RB25DET motor?

Please don't give me a response if your just guessing.. I need a solid reply from someone who really knows the best oil for this motor.

Thanks...

you wont get guesses, you're going to get opinions. a shit load of different 1's. everyone has their preference.

if you want a solid answer, use the oil nissan specify. i think it might 7.5W/30

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=22458

Thanks..

ok.. point taken.. let me refrase my question... I'm after an answer from someone who has used and oil for this motor and has been happy with it.

My main concern is whether or not to bother using a running in oil or just go straight to the oil that I will use for every day use once it's run in??

Everyone has a difference in opinion so if anyone has been there and done that, let me know..

Thanks

I use running in oil, drop it out after about 100 km and change the oil filter . I refill with the same stuff for another 400-500 km then drop it out and change the filter again and use mineral oil for the next 2 oil changes about 6 k k's then use synthetic oil on the next change .

5w40 or 10w50 , but it will depend on what you use your car for .

I have used the same basic running in process for lots of years and on many engines;

Castrol GTX (the basic no frills mineral oil) with new filter.

Run engine for about 1/2 hr or until well warm.

Change oil filter. Engines can have particles in them that acccumulate during the build/maching proces and they need to be removed from the engine ASAP, these are caught in the oil filter. If you leave them in, the oil filter can get blocked and so it will be bypassed ie; no filtering.

Check the basic tune on the dyno or on the road with portable lambda sensor.

Drive to Bathurst and back, around 500k's, lots of varying conditions, up and down hills, freeway, long climbs etc. Don't rev the beegeesus out of it, gentle but firm, change throttle openings often, no slogging it in high gears with lots of throttle and load it up with partial throttle openings going up hills.

Drain the GTX and remove the oil filter.

Refill with Castrol Formula R Synthetic 10W60 and fit a new oil filter.

Do leak down test, if OK then final tune on the dyno.

Go racing

:D Cheers :(

Edited by Sydneykid

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...