Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey everyone.

in the near future im looking at heading to regency for my roadworthy compliance for my 32gtst...

ive got all the instructions and stuff and im gonna need a few bits to get it thru.

when i got the car it came with a pod filter, fmic and body kit.

naturally the front intrusion bar has been eaten by an angle grinder to make airflow for the fmic, and this obviously isnt going to pass so ill need one of them,

as well as the front bar itself,

airbox,

stock intercooler and some piping,

steering wheel,

can anyone recommend good places to source these bits?? id like to borrow what i can if i can coz this will obviously save me alot of money... any suggestions would be great, even if u reckon i could get away with the fmic or pod would be great news!

thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/98186-regency-for-compliance-soon/
Share on other sites

yeah i already spoke to some guy there and he said it was ok..

EXCEPT - (this is where the fun begins)

ive got a bit of paper here, which was sent to me from RTA talking about it all

GENERAL CONDITIONS:

That on post 1974 vehicles, the engine must remain standard and retain its original induction system.

That the engine MUST retain the original equipment induction system; ie, carburettor, inlet manifold, camshaft, air cleaner, ECU and fuel injection system.

That all emission control equipment and associated plumbing originally fitted must be retained and operational

The fitting of turbo timers, non OEM blow off valves and mechanisms to vary turbocharger boost pressure are not acceptable

so from what i can understand is that to comply the car - you gotta have it like this (plus other conditions that i havent listed but have here on this bit of paper) but if you get defected you can have some of the stuff as aftermarket so long as it doesnt break other rules, like you mentioned it has to be secured etc.

It depends which a$$hole you get at Regency as to whether you pass or not.

Take your dad with you when you go, and see if they go easier on you.

It is pure pot luck, and the rules change depending on whom you ask.

Good luck!

i was thinking about getting my dad to take it in for me..

surely its gotta do something to help my chances..

lets see, 19yo P plater vs 56yo gentleman... lets see what we can do for you sir..

'shes all good mate, just get *something* sorted out as soon as you can'

vs

'you have to change this, this this, this is broken, this is worn, replace this, spend money on that'

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Given you're running a 2.8 and my 2.5 is not really like for like, I suspect there could be a bit more timing you could give it. What is the kW yield per degree you're putting through it? Here's my E85 map to give you an idea, where it was I could still get another 3~4kW per degree thrown at it.  
    • It turns out that Setrab make a fan specifically for the oil cooler which is great and I've installed it with minimal swearing. I removed my 2x 12in push fans from the front of my aircon condenser and wired them into this. My main thermo fans kick on when I use the aircon anyway and would effectively already be working as puller fans through the condensor which is infront of the rad. The push fans (understandably) didn't really do much in the config they were previously in so now they're out. Now we're on to the "Oil fan doesn't really do much either!". Yes I'll duct it next if it does nothing in heavy use which it shouldn't. But hey, the object exists and fits great and is cool. Let me have this. The car is still in the "do my fittings leak oil now? do my wheels actually rub?" phase. I did a spirited drive on them and didn't hear or feel anything. Then I got back home and noticed there were grind marks on the inside of the rims, though I couldn't see where they were touching I got out the grinder and attacked the suspects. Note: I do not know how to use a grinder. Then I realised I had dragged my new rims across my concrete driveway before I did this drive. I didn't think I had damage at that time when I briefly looked...... but remembered this occurred after I did all the angle grinding. The grinding on the wheels in some very specific spots. It's not around the whole rim for example, which lines up with dragging it across concrete more than hitting a suspension component for even 1 full rotation. So everything is currently painted and taped up and I need to test it some more to see if it really IS rubbing, but from inside the car it doesn't feel like it is. In other news I attempted to do a before and after comparison of the heads/cam upgrade thing. Dynos lie, everything is in different measurements. Here is the data from the sandown back straight. Car go faster than before. Vroom vroom.
    • Here's my base ignition. +3 correction to redline when shooting water/meth which is always on. Looking at my old ignition table, I should be able to add 1-2 degree's next time I'm on the dyno.  Let me know your thoughts. 
    • Given what I know now - same haha, but this was 12 years ago with second hand 740cc Nismo injectors in my S15 daily, I was too busy hunting elsewhere for the issue to even look at the injectors, running through some cleaner was a happy coincidence haha
    • Not a terrible idea. But if I ever had concerns that my injectors were sufficiently dirty to be causing me a problem, they would be out of the engine and onto the actual injector cleaner/testing bench.
×
×
  • Create New...