Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Anyone know the size of the original intercooler piping on an RB25DET? Coz i want to get a cooler that has its inlet and outlet on the left side of the cooler so i do not need to get a lot of piping, as in use the original piping in the engine bay. is this possible and how big should the diameter be?

thanks in advance

bambam

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9819-piping/
Share on other sites

G0DF4Th3R,

I think the original piping is 2.5". It is possible to have a cooler made this way, but certainly it is not the prefferable design. I'd save my money a bit more and go for a GTR style cooler with 3" piping all the way, you'd be surprised what a difference it will make.

See'ya:burnout:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9819-piping/#findComment-152013
Share on other sites

3" is bigger than:

- the outlet from the factory turbo

- factory L pipe to the throttle body

- the throttle body itself

Isn't it a bit of overkill if G0DF4Th3R isn't looking for 600-odd-hp? All that extra volume to fill isn't going to help response very much.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9819-piping/#findComment-153626
Share on other sites

Well seeing as I have done it and it only improved both my response and power then I would have to say hah to that. I agree that too big can be a bit of overkill, but replacing the factory pipes is a must, they are shit.

I always assume that people are after big power, like me, if your not then 2.5" will be more than enough, just piss off the stock pipes.

See'ya:burnout:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9819-piping/#findComment-154057
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Has equal chance of cleaning an AFM and f**king an AFM. I think you can work out what happened. When the Hitachi ECU sees the AFM die and goes into the associated limp mode, then it will start and run just fine, because it ignores the AFM and just runs on idle maps that will do what it needs to get it going. But there is no proper load signal, so that's about all it can do. My suggestion? If you don't want to go full aftermaket ECU, then get some R35 GTR AFM cards and some housings to put them in, in the stock location, and Nistune the ECU. Better to do a good upgrade than just replace shitty 40 year old tech with the same 40 year old tech.
    • So my car was recently having trouble starting on initial crank, I would need to feather the gas for it to start up but besides that it would start and run fine. So I clicked the idle air control valve (with throttle body cleaner) and cleaned the MAF sensors (with MAF cleaner). The start up issue was fixed and now the car turns over without the assist of the throttle, but the car is in limp mode and wont rev past 2.5k RPM. From what I understand the IACV would not put the car in limp mode, so I am to believe it is the MAF sensors, but it was running fine before and now I cant get it out of limp mode. I cleaned the MAF made sure the o rings were seated properly. Made sure the cables were plugged in properly, the cables also both read the same voltage. Does anybody know why this is or what could be causing this or how to get it out of limp mode?
    • Ooo I might actually come and bring the kids, however will leave the shit box home and take the daily
    • Thanks. Yeah I realised that there's no way I'd be able to cover the holes with the filler, it would just fall through. Thanks again @GTSBoy!
    • That was the reason I asked. If you were going to be fully bodge spec, then that type of filler is the extreme bodge way to fill a large gap. But seeing as you're going to use glass sheet, I would only use that fibre reinforced filler if there are places that need a "bit more" after you've finished laying in the sheet. Which, ideally, you wouldn't. You might use a blob of it underneath the sheet, if you need to provide some support from under to keep the level of your sheet repair up as high as it needs to be, to minimise the amount of filler you need on top. Even though you're going bodge spec here, using glass instead of metal, the same rules apply wrt not having half inch deep filler on the top of the repair. Thick filler always ends up shitting the bed earlier than thin filler.
×
×
  • Create New...