Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hows it goin boys, i got my exhaust fitted yesterday 3inch turbo back, thats the only mod the cars got. When i drive it in the low revs it shows up around 5 or 6 psi then it goes up slowly till arround 7 or 8 then at pretty much exactly 5000rpm it goes straight to 10psi and stays till redline.

What my question is with a bleedvalve will that enable the car to be boost at 10psi right from the begining say 2500 (or whenever boost kicks in on the rb25's)

i just wanna make sure it will b4 i buy one, becoz a mate of mine reckons if its boosting to 10 psi now theres no point? Thanks.

yea your m8s correct.. u'll probably gain a more constant 10psi thru the rev range .. but u could invest ina r32 rb20 turbo actuator instead...... either way its naturally gaining boost as u remove restriction with the exhaust.

leave it for now .. save for a front mount.. then see where your boost sits when u fit that..

Matt

reading through my original post i think it may be unclear exactly what im asking, what id like to know if anyone can help me is will a bleed valve set to 10psi mean that the car will go stright to 10 psi as soon as it hits boost, as opposed to what happens now..which is a gradual climb (7psi up until around 5000rpm) to 10 psi high in the rev range? Thanks guys.

there is a thread in here on how to get high boost setting through out the rev rang, pls search

go here http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=42895

Edited by race_snooze

just ground the solenoid so its constantly on. that bypasses the 2 stage boost that the ecu has. dunno if it will burn out the solenoid cause its always on. or you could just purchase one of those nifty mech boost controlers on the forum for $35ish and just set it to 10.

there is a thread in here on how to get high boost setting through out the rev rang, pls search

go here  http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=42895

Yea forget the bleed valve and just use the hiogh boost mod with the standard actuator. $2 for the wire,. $3 for the switch. Dash mount and switch it to 10PSI at the flick of the switch.

You said RB25 so I'll assume you have an R33.

Ground the solenoid and you'll get the instant 10psi as mentioned above. Also, when I picked my car up after a ton of work to it they left the bleed valve closed.

What this resulted in was a gradual increase in boost as the revs raised until it stopped at about 14psi. Opening the bleed valve up I was able to attain a much faster boost increase up to 15psi so as far as my personal experience goes, if after the solenoid mod your boost still rises slowly, try a bleed valve. They're cheap as chips anyway and you'll want one eventually.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...