Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

gday fellars.

Ash, before you say search, I have.

Atm, I've bascially done all the usual mods e.g. exhaust, cooler, air filter, fuel pump etc. I'm looking at getting it tuned, coz it's running liek crap with stock ecu.

I will get an exhaust cam gear at some stage (thinking about it when 100000ks comes, and I have to do the timing belt).

If I install the cam gear later and dial it into the correct setting, will I have to get it retuned. i.e. should I just get the cam gear now before tune?

Cheers

Edited by MANWHOR3
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/98795-rb25-exhaust-cam-retune-required/
Share on other sites

you wont need to get it retuned. you can't tune the stock ecu and a remap of it will cost you about $1500 ish if you get it done with a chipswap on your stock ecu board. or you can get someone to remap another r33 ecu and swap it for yours for around $500 ish. exhaust cam wont give you any power, the stock one is fine.

define running like "crap"

what are the problems you are seeing/feeling ?

remap = $300 by our forumn member toshi.

Sorry about the confusion, what I meant was exhaust cam gear. These are known to give improvements.

Paul, I'm not new to skylines, and i'm not asking the usual question, oh, my car has more boost, it runs like shit what is it. I've read almost everything everyone has said about it on SAU and I know that it's the stock ecu running it like shit. I ran it on the dyno, and AFR were down to between 9 and 10.

What I am asking is not about whether getting an exhaust cam gear will give performance improvements or whether a tune is good. I am getting it remapped regardless. I just want to know whether I need to get it retuned after exhaust cam gear install.

I imagine it would need to be tuned, since the cam gear will change airflow.

Edited by MANWHOR3

Not sure about other peoples experiences but I havn't seen enough gain to warrant retarding the exhaust cam to bring boost on eariler. The problem then becomes you start to heat the exhaust valves higher up in the rev range which introduces the chances of detotnation (and it will ping).

I just want to know whether I need to get it retuned after exhaust cam gear install.

now your question is clear, answer is simply.

yes.

although i agree with pauls post above, seen a number of rb25's now with cam gear/no gain

I've read a lot of threads on this forum stating "No gains made with Variable Exhaust Cam Gears on GTS-t's," but when I got ours tuned at C&V it made around 7kw@tw more. Con at C&V thought realisticaly it was more because the engine was becoming heat soaked. John Penlington at Unique has dyno sheets showing a larger improvement than mine tuning Variable Cam Timing Gears on a GTS-t. I'll ring John and ask him to post his sheets.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...