Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im just after soem advice/opinions about an R34 GTT. I owned a lightly modified r33 for a few years but sold it about 12 months ago but after driving old bombs and playing with motorbikes since then i realise i miss the skyline too much.

Im looking for a white R34 GTT manual and am looking at spening something in the region of 25 to 28 thousan dollars. I guess since i have been out of the look for a while and not reasing the forums often im not sure how the market it for the R34. I know i had major difficulties selling my R33 even though it was in mint condition and i lost alot of money on the car because when i bought it i was willing to pay a premium for a car in such good condition. Im not really prepared to do the same again. The R33 market has been saturated for along time now but what about the R34? Does the supply outwieigh the demand for one so its possibly to be quite picky for one?

One of my major gripes with the R33 was it was really thirsty. I remember never getting better than around 16L/100k's for my fuel economy and id like to think with a newer spec engine the RB25DET neo was somewhat improved. Yes? No?

Would people say the GTT would be a better car for taking to cub track days than an R33? I always preffered to get the most out of my suspension than spending money on the engine with my R33 but i could never fool myself into thinking it was a small agile car. The R34 looks smaller to me which i asume would be slightly better handling.

What other significant chassis differences are there between the R33 and R34 and what is significantly different between the engines in both cars?

Thanks all.

Hey mate,

I have owned both cars, they are VERY similar.

In terms of performance, the R34 is slightly quicker, handles slightly better. But if you sit in an R33, then sit an R34 10mins later, you can tell that you are simply sitting in a newer "cosmetic" version of what is essentially the same car. Fuel economy for me, was pretty much the same as the R33.

That said, the R34 looks crazy. So go for it.

Im looking for a white R34 GTT manual and am looking at spening something in the region of 25 to 28 thousan dollars.

1) you could buy mine and convert it to manual for that:) http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=98570

Though you might not want to convert it once you have tried the M-AT box.

One of my major gripes with the R33 was it was really thirsty. I remember never getting  better than around 16L/100k's for my fuel economy and id like to think with a newer spec engine the RB25DET neo was somewhat improved. Yes? No?

Yes. I never get down to 16l/100km, even with stop start driving around town. Out on the highway, sticking to the speed limit with Cruise control on, I get 10l/100km.

What other significant chassis differences are there between the R33 and R34 and what is significantly different between the engines in both cars?

Major difference in stiffness and engine... Read my add and follow the link to Nissans press release.

Ian

i think your R33 either needed a tune, or an o2 sensor, or you just thrashed it everywhere, because 16l/100km is piss weak. from the countless threads on fuel consumption there are a lot of people with modded 33's getting 10-12l/100km

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The final part arrived today to un-clampify and simplify the intake Who would have though a 1/2" hose stainless bulkhead fitting designed for below waterline bilge pumps would be what I needed Test fit on a 3" offcut I had laying around to see if it would work, and it worked a treat All going well the intake will be on its "final version" tomorrow 
    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
×
×
  • Create New...