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Its still the original RB20 gearbox, 180,000kms old. I have run 3 clutches, std, UAS GTR single plate clutch and now an Xtreme single plate clutch. The UAS was better.

roy,

seeing as though you're the RB20/Trust TD06 guru :)

just curious to know, what are your thoughts on how the Trust TD06-25G will perform on an internally standard RB20DET?

cheers.

Id say its too big. But i suppose if you shove an 8cm housing on it, and you can live with nothing under 5,000rpm then it would do the job at the drags. Two friends in particular still rate the TD06-25G as the animal setup on RB25s

yeah, i thought so. it would definitely be more suited to an RB25 or a nice RB24.

Roy, how's yours for cruising with the TD06-20G?

Edited by RS500

I drive it every day, (well i did up until August this year) so im use to it. Better if someone like R32Big_boy, Scotsman, Doughboy Chris32, Bl4ck32 etc answered (if they bother reading Rb20 threads :P)

as they have all had bum in seat time.

Its a nice little thing. If you like punchy power and response it sux. If you are thinking about what you are doing and keeping it in the correct gear, its a good match. Just dont expect to stomp it in 3rd at 60km/h and go anywhere very quickly as the thin only has 110rwkws or thereabouts. But if your doing 95km/h in 3rd the thing has over 200rwkws (from memory)

Actually since you used the term cruising id say its excellent. I can sit on the freeway and get 9.1L/100km, and drive smoothly along without filter and BOVs makign lots of noise ramping onto boost. It makes for a nice street car, just not a very quick one.

I dont think too many clutches will have troublw holding the power a TD06-20G will make on an RB20. That said mine when it got a bit hot at the drags did tend to slip a little, but its fine on the circuit so im happy. If it slips then its helping my gearbox live.

It seems the secret to helping the RB20 box live is not to over clutch it and to keep good fluid up to it

Driving up to 20km/h in 1st gear then grabbing 2nd and florring it, i get no wheelspin in 2nd as it ramps onto boost. Shirting into 3rd at full noise etc, traction is perfect. I run RE55s, and to be honest i dont know how well the 18" Falkens hook up on the street as i havent really given it any stick.

The R32 chassis with reasonable tyres wont have too much probelm with 230rwkws.

I drive it every day, (well i did up until August this year) so im use to it. Better if someone like R32Big_boy, Scotsman, Doughboy Chris32, Bl4ck32 etc answered (if they bother reading Rb20 threads :P)

as they have all had bum in seat time.

Its a nice little thing. If you like punchy power and response it sux. If you are thinking about what you are doing and keeping it in the correct gear, its a good match. Just dont expect to stomp it in 3rd at 60km/h and go anywhere very quickly as the thin only has 110rwkws or thereabouts. But if your doing 95km/h in 3rd the thing has over 200rwkws (from memory)

Actually since you used the term cruising id say its excellent. I can sit on the freeway and get 9.1L/100km, and drive smoothly along without filter and BOVs makign lots of noise ramping onto boost. It makes for a nice street car, just not a very quick one.

thanks for the info roy.

given that i drive a sierra cosworth rs500 almost as an every day car, i am used to having lag and it not being so punchy in the lower rpm range, so that won't be a problem for me, although as i am looking at buying an r32 gts-t as an every day car and potential track warrior later on, i'd like to go for a setup that will be better than what i have now with my cossie.

i actually like how u mention u can cruise on the fwy with low fuel usage, as i'm looking for it to be quite economical when the power is not needed.

im slowly setting my car up to drift...just trying to get the motor upto it....and i dont care about lag with drifting...cos most of the time your on full boost anyway....but if it could start to break traction in 2nd that would be nice cos it would make it easy to slip it out sidewards

and i dont care about lag with drifting

?

um. Sorry, but, like, you have so totally got to do some research.

you need control to drift. unless you just want to hang the end out from time to time.

then again, what would I know?

i know where your coming from...as i have drifted a few cars they dont have much lag if any at all...but i dont mind lag...you control your drift with throttle control....and use a bit of brakes at the same time....drifting is better when your at full noise and the tires a screaming out smoke....most people prefer to drift and have no lag...but im the opposite

?

um. Sorry, but, like, you have so totally got to do some research.

you need control to drift. unless you just want to hang the end out from time to time.

then again, what would I know?

dude have u seen what turbos all the top cars run? Most of the top cars D1 cars run 450ps plus which mean td06-20 at a minimum. The ppg gearbox car and the d1 garage s14 and a number of other cars in the aus series all run highmount turbos. Its quite easy out on a race track to keep the engine on boost as most of the time you are in the powerband (if not change down! :D) or you can always kick the clutch :)

If you are serious about using this setup for drift, i would recommend you try and suss yourself out a nice manifold. Whilst plenty of ppl say that the std manifold is good for plenty of power, the fact that Nissan gave the RB20DET-R a neat manifold, and i think whilst there are better setups then mine, the synergy of turbo, manifold and gate work well together. I suspect you wont get the same resutls using the std manifold.

The D1 cars with the larger turbos in the 450-550hp range all use manifolds and gates, which again reinforces that the synergy of all the parts help the setup shine

TD06_Plot.jpg

The above plot is my turbo with the 8cm vs 10cm housing, but since you have cams etc, it will be interesting to see how it goes. The setup is dramatically improved with the right housing

One thing with using the std manifold is that you wont have to go crazy with heat shielding, you will still have to pay attention to shielding for dump pipe etc, but as you can see in the below pic, the manifold exposes a lot of engine bay parts to high temps.

462After_Engine_Pic.jpg

hmm thats a pretty nice setup...the diferance between the 8cm and 10cm is pretty big...im also gettin a custom made plenum to go on with this aswell...im also thinking of ordering a 3 bolt 8cm exhuast housing like yours instead of using the t3 internal gate housing because the internal gate doesnt look like it would work very well...as it looks like it would cause alot of turbulence....if i go with the 3 bolt external gate housing i will get one of those OBX turbo manifolds from the states cos they are cheaper than greddy.....wat external gate are you using roy?

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