Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I had a HKS super sequential on while ago but sold it as a BOV on the auto doesn't work as well. In first gear sometimes it would stall after accelerating and stoping at low speed. As for the noise it doesn't do it on gear changes like a manual, but you could still get it to do it.

I think BOV are for manuals only. But hey give it a go its fun.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99092-bov/#findComment-1804778
Share on other sites

WOW, for $700 a BOV id rather not have a BOV and just rebuild the compressor wheel every time (debatable) the compresser surge kills it

what the hell does a $700 bov do, provide sexual favours, honestly..

well to answer your question, this $700 BOV allows you to control the amount of sound it gives off with the twist of a knob from inside the car, you can have it on full volume then turn it so that there is no sound at all, which is a great idea for when you are having to deal with the police and their defects

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99092-bov/#findComment-1805073
Share on other sites

Yeah i'll get some pics tonight for you. i haven't sealed it 100% around the bottom of the AFM, but i have insulated the box, as it's just aluminium. air flows up from under the car behind the passenger side headlight and into the pod.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99092-bov/#findComment-1806301
Share on other sites

I have a GFB Stealth, came with the car when I bought it, very nice to be able to twist it and make it louder or softer, but have to open the bonnet still to do it, but still, with my tune I dont have any problems with stalling or anything, but the stealth is a dual atmo/plumb back.

It's set to about half way atm, but my god it shakes all the windows within a 5km radius when it is set to full atmo :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99092-bov/#findComment-1806758
Share on other sites

yeah i got a gfb stealth on mine and it works well but 700 for the in cabin adjustable is a bit too much i rekon. i will contact my supplier get you a price on it and see how it compares. but i think i can get you one cheaper than that if u do really want it

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99092-bov/#findComment-1807600
Share on other sites

yeah i got a gfb stealth on mine and it works well but 700 for the in cabin adjustable is a bit too much i rekon. i will contact my supplier get you a price on it and see how it compares. but i think i can get you one cheaper than that if u do really want it

i do want one, however it will be a few months before i get my stagea, and i wont be doing any spending until i have the stagea on the road, i dont want to spend to much money and end up not having enough to get the car registered.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99092-bov/#findComment-1808365
Share on other sites

from someone on the forums doing a group buy of R33 and R34 air boxes. i got one for and R33 and R34 to see which would fit better, but they're about the same. i gave the R33 one away to a mate though.

i don't know if the group buy is still up, it was a while ago

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99092-bov/#findComment-1811777
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Reading through the engine service manual their advice is do a cylinder balance test. Unplug one injector at a time and see if the idle drops a consistent RPM. You can also do this using a Consult cable which is easier. They also call for unplugging the power transistor, then with the engine off and the fuel rail unhooked from the manifold verifying that you have good fuel flow (even injection, no dripping/leaks, etc) when you twist the CAS by hand. Also verify the spark by pulling the spark plugs and allowing the plugs to ground and turning the CAS by hand. I would also start doing the sensor checks and idle valve checks in service manual. Make sure the MAF tests reasonably, the intake air regulator is sane, etc. You may have to get new spark plugs.
    • This sounds very old of me, however since buying the Tiguan shit box, my view on shit boxes have changed.
    • I've looked up the parts number (41011AL501). It's around $700 OEM. Usually our Infiniti G35 here in Canada have interchangeable parts with my Stagea but the parts number are not the same. I have looked around and it seems the JDM 2005 V35 Skyline (which is the same as our G35) has the same caliper but I cannot confirm. And I can't find a repair kit. The inner brake pads drags on the rotor, seems to be rusty piston. Thanks for the info by the way
    • This coupled with 6-9 speed autos with ridiculously short gearing is why these modern shitbox cars always seem so fast off the line. If it wasn't for those things, Raptors would not seem fast. The problem we have is there is a driveability gap between a more gentle take off and a wheelspinning sideways launch. The difference between ankle flex required to achieve one and ankle flex required to achieve the other is about 0.5°.
    • Yeah I think I'm also with the opposite here. It's 'hard to keep up with traffic' because in the real world I'm accelerating with 15% throttle and they are pinning it. It feels like I'm being an overt dickhead at anything above 15% throttle, so the car sounds like I'm being an overt dickhead to keep up with/get ahead of traffic when I'm really just trying to drive with traffic. There would be no issue 'keeping up with traffic' if we used the same level of throttle input/aggression to drive around. People really do just drive around with their foot nearly pinned in econoboxes.
×
×
  • Create New...