Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i was at the drags tonight and when i took off i started getting lots of smoke from under my engine bay due to a melted catch tank hose (dont use the ones they give you!).

when i got to the middle of the track it felt like it was running on 5cyl and i had alot of smoke coming from behind the car (oil frying on my manifold).

i opened the bonnet and there was oil everywhere, one of the catch can pipes burst.

my oil pressure is fine, engine temp is fine, knock is still reading low.

so what could it be?

my spark plugs are a bit black..

ive got no smoke coming out of my exhaust, and no oil in my catch can.

thanks guys, i could realllyyyy use some help.

maybe the extra fuel fowled up one of my spark plugs more than the others because i think i got a boost spike.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99256-do-i-need-to-rebuild/
Share on other sites

try either removing any step-downs in the piping or removing the catch can altogether and see if things return to normal.

A friend with a 33 had similar issues after installing a catch can and it turned out to be the step-down that were causing the problem.

Edited by Lazy-Bastard

well ill be stripping things off this week and hopefully getting it machined after christmas.

all i need is a hoist.

also, does anyone know anywhere in syd where i can get some decently priced forged pistons?

thanks guys.

don't strip it down if you haven't tested it.

You said that oil was burning on the manifold. That's what the catch can is for. storing oil. If your pipe melted, it's just oil coming out of the tank and burning on the manifold.

The fact that the pipe got melted doens't matter. You can run the engine without any hosing connected to the cam covers.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just don't use ChatGPT or any other artificial stupidity for the equivalent of googling. Their demonstrated inability to discriminate reality from hallucination should be enough to make them totally untrusted. LLMs don't know anything and cannot think to even the smallest extent. They are just predictors of the next word, and that should never be confused with capability.
    • I think, given the usage model described in the OP, I'd never ever experience the wonders of the 400kW upgrade. What I really need is boost from 2000rpm and probably no more than 260-270rwkW. But I suspect that the highflow is not actually the turbo for that purpose, so I may in fact need to get a G25 or 30 or something right sized and very spooly. We shall see after it is tuned. I've had to back the boost and boost ramp off to stop the thing from pinging since the highflow went on, so I've been almost living the NA life for 9 months now! Injectors are recently in hand. AFM is in hand. Dyno is fixed. Just need to clear a queue of f**king Supras out of the way (and probably fit my new gearbox). So....some time this year? Lol.
    • For what I gather is a Sunday/summer car....braided is fine. You're not going to be left without a vehicle and you have plenty of time for inspection/maintenance. Oof. I wouldn't use them that way. They can probably handle the temperature** but the internal corrugations means that their flow characteristics are a bit shit. Lots of extra friction and pressure loss. Makes them flow like the next pipe size down. ** They are stainless, and the stainless can usually be at least something like 304L, which is pretty good at higher temperatures (unlike 316L, which I would use for a wrt/corrosive environment, but not a particularly hot environment). But the welding needs to be top notch. And even then, because you usually need at least one cone-seat end on them (because you can twist the hose and do up both ends at the same time unless one of them is a union) they can be prone to coming loose with heat cycles.
    • I don't have the OEM oil feed lines though and the turbo-wraparound line is torn, only has water. My plan is to get replacements for these and just connect a braided line to there. And make sure it's leak free. Hoses like these are also sometimes used to connect external wastegates, so for an EGR I think you're good using them.
    • Alright I understand. The most likely case is probably gonna be that I just keep the OEM unit in the car as long as it works.
×
×
  • Create New...