Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

im goin 2 put a new clutch in my rb25det (neo if that makes a differecne) since i have everything out

i was talking to the bloke at the clutch shop about it and he suggested a brass button clutch with 6 buttons over an organic one, because if you give it a squirt regularly i would wear the organic clutch away very easily... i was concerned about the driveability and durability of the brass button clutch... how long does this clutch last and when it does shit itsself will i need to get the flywheel re-machined... also how hard is it to drive in traffic... i want it to be a nice to drive car not kangarooing up the road because of this clutch

thanks everyone & have a good x mas

Edited by Space Goat
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99403-clutches/
Share on other sites

I went to a clutch specialist here in canberra, and what clutch they suggested to me, i got. Ended up being $854 fitted for an excede clutch.

You need the fly wheel machined, otherwise it wont mesh correctly 80% of the time (you get mad shudder).

You'll adapt to the brass button clutch, and it might be a little heavy to start off with... but will pay off in the long run. Mines an organic clutch, and at first i was very hoppy with it:) Now i can launch it very nicly.

Dayne

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99403-clutches/#findComment-1812198
Share on other sites

nar pretty much stock neo motor... will run standard boost for now but will upgrade turbo when this one shits its self... modifications will be usual stuff 3" zorts, pod, chipped ecu. ect ect might get it port matched to improve flow later on aswell as a arc smic and some sort of crazy computer (still undecided)... but for now just want to get it running reliable and stock so i get used to the power of the neo

also driveability in traffic will the 9 button clutch be smoother than a 6... i dont want it to be a pain to drive in traffic

Edited by Space Goat
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99403-clutches/#findComment-1813023
Share on other sites

get a jim berry clutch, spoke to him and can still retain alot of driveability and no aching left leg after driving and mine has just under 400rwkw which he says this particular one will be fine for it..

ask adrian (2rismo) he used jim berry clutch, its a perfect feel daily driven clutch and he runs 11s

ben...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99403-clutches/#findComment-1816108
Share on other sites

I've just recently replaced my exedy HD clutch with a brass button clutch with 6 buttons. I think the driveability of the brass button clutch is actually easier and smoother to drive with day to day around town than my old clutch. Both are very heavy on the left foot but u get used to it.

I was told that the brass button wouldn't last as long as an organic but organic clutch heats up and begins to slip after a few launches. So far, button has been great. Bout $100 more.

Can't tell u how long gonna last though....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99403-clutches/#findComment-1816748
Share on other sites

get a jim berry clutch, spoke to him and can still retain alot of driveability and no aching left leg after driving and mine has just under 400rwkw which he says this particular one will be fine for it..

ask adrian (2rismo) he used jim berry clutch, its a perfect feel daily driven clutch and he runs 11s

ben...

I got one too. Dead set awesome clutch. And one of my mates has a full custom one from him in his 3sgte corolla.

Very bitey, but so soft to the foot.

To get his number just google his name. At least give him a ring.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99403-clutches/#findComment-1816770
Share on other sites

I'm using xtreme 9 puk. I'd buy it again.

Organic = weak if you're running 200rwkw IMO.. plus heat = no take up. Organic is what people should use in a STOCK car.

If you're running extra boost I would suggest atleast a setup similar to the xtreme 9 puk with 860kg pressure plate. Cubes runs the same clutch with 1100kg pressure plate with his rb30 and he's only said good things.

I wouldn't bother with a brass button as it's old school. Just get a sprung centre with 9 or 6 puks (the less puks the harder the pickup will be) and you'll be right.

Having said that a lot of people will say using a brass button you'll get used to it - which is true, but why make it hard for yourself when you don't need to?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99403-clutches/#findComment-1818909
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...