Jump to content
SAU Community

Bov's That Are Both Atmo And Plumback

R33_Series2Lover
 Share

Recommended Posts

R33_Series2Lover Collaborator

R33_Series2Lover

Posted
Posted

Hi there a mate of mine gave me a GFB stealth FX BOV as an early xmas pressie and i want to put on my car I own a R33 series 2 as I want the so called wankfactor sound hehe (personal preference I guess). They vent both to the atmo and plumback. I only have a 3 inch turbo back exhaust, are these good and stop those normal associated problems skylines have with BOV's. According to the GFB website this one is good. But I dont trust em I trust you guys and your opinions. thanks and sorry for the BOV question i wont ask another one this is it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99605-bovs-that-are-both-atmo-and-plumback/
Share on other sites
RB30-POWER Mentor

RB30-POWER

Posted
Posted

Better then a full venting BOV, however not as good as a full plumb back type. i.e factory valve.

Anytime air is measured by the airflow meter and doesn't go to the engine it will cause richness.

Potentially damaging the cat rather quickly and blocking the exhaust, as well as general running problems.

However it sounds like you have made up your mind already, might as well put it on and find out what problems arise.

2BNVS Veteran

2BNVS

Posted
Posted

i have the gfb hybrid and before i connected the plumback hose it was terrible and stalling, as soon as i connected it, it was perfect not one problem with idle and afm were pretty good

btw it will only cause richness if u dont have it tuned for the bov, so chances are most that have them have been tuned, therefore not doing damage

best bov i think...

ben...

THE_350GT Community Regular

THE_350GT

Posted
Posted

Hey guys

When i install my BOV on my car every time i would put the cluch in after it went off the car would stall and their was much more black SH#t on the back of my car. Thus more cleaning, for my car when i put the standard one back on better everything came back.

Drift King Community Regular

Drift King

Posted
Posted

What if I too have the GFB Stealth FX BOV but I have it at 100% plumback? Won't it be the same as standard? Recently had my power fc tuned so wouldn't that have been taken into account? Had the noise for a while but got bored of it, prefer the flutter type sound just wish I could get it!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GD51LA
      GTR Festival stand

      By GD51LA · Posted

      it was good to see our presence at GTR festival..hope to see more SAU at these events 
    • PranK
      Are you an oil nerd?

      By PranK · Posted

      This is awesome.     
    • Borci88
      Borg Warner EFR Series Turbo's V 2.0

      By Borci88 · Posted

      Thanks for the quick replies guys its appreciated. A small extension was welded onto the standard 6boost external gate pipe which you can see where the pipe goes from black to stainless just below and to the right of the rear housing in the first picture. Overall I would say the flow is pretty good other than 6boosts choice to come straight off the collector at a decent angle.. Not sure why I went with two valves, I originally replaced the stock twin bovs with the GFB when I had the twins on. When I purchased the EFR it came with the Turbosmart Kompact BOV so I figured that would be a better option than the stock EFR Bov. I don't believe the Turbosmart BOV is adjustable? When I get the spike and then sudden dip in boost pressure, the turbo speed does drop as well. Stock head size wise however I believe it has Neo Turbo springs and a Neo Turbo intake camshaft and an aftermarket exhaust camshaft in the vicinity of 260 degrees. We didn't try a different MAC valve, we tried two different ways of plumbing it and we also tried removing the mac valve entirely and just having the boost source from the turbo directly connected to the wastegate and it still spiked / dropped and exhibited the same behaviour. Standard R33 GTR 5 speed tansmission. I'm running a Haltech Elite 2500 and can provide some logs if you. I understand what you're saying in that it looks like an auto plot however no, it's still a manual and it just has a lot of torque down low, for all intents and purposes it's a very impressive street car. I've attached a photo of the quickbitz dyno plot which was when the only difference is I was running -5 twin turbos with a mac valve. As you can see theres a decent dip in AFRs between 125kmh and 135kmh. Our problem now is not that the AFRs are dropping, just the boost pressure is dropping, however it is evident in the same RPM range of the map, coincidentally or not.
    • Lithium
      Borg Warner EFR Series Turbo's V 2.0

      By Lithium · Posted

      What transmission are you running?  It's a bit tricky with the scaling, but at face value the power "curve" looks more like a "line" which is a bit odd... basically a lot more like a dyno plot I'd expect with a highish (compared to a factory auto) stall torque converter type setup. If this is running an auto then this kind of boost control challenge is definitely a thing, the rpm scale on the dyno doesn't reflect what the engine is actually doing (unless the dyno has access to the engine's ACTUAL speed electronically) and what you'll get is a big rpm flare up as the engine torque launches past the converter pump's ability to resist torque at that rpm, then as the converter starts picking up rpm it will kinda even out again and the engine rpm will pick up more steadily. The trick with this "flare up" is if it's kinda near the boost threshold for the turbo then the engine's airflow requirements to maintain the previous boost level will outrun the turbo's ability to supply that boost - so you end up with a natural flattening off, if not dip when that happens.   If you are running closed loop, or even tune the "feed forward" wastegate duty cycle to deal with that rpm spike then when the engine starts settling to a more typical climb you'll actually have a situation where the gate is "too closed" and boost will run away for a bit, then have to pull down again.      It's not trivial to get this perfect as most boost control systems are generally expecting more predictable engine rpm rates of change, but if you *know* that's whats going on then you can at least "accept your fate" and realise getting that area perfect is kinda chasing your tail a bit, and assume that if the rest is working sensibly and the spike/dip isn't completely uncontrolled then you should be good. Sorry if I've gone off on a tangent, but the dyno plot and boost control behaviour look a LOT like what I've seen tuning autos in the past. What ECU are you running? Could possibly be convinced into looking at logs if I get too bored this weekend haha.
    • Piggaz
      Borg Warner EFR Series Turbo's V 2.0

      By Piggaz · Posted

      A few things that seem a bit off here. - why is there 2 BOV’s?  - the turbo smart BOV on the compressor housing, is it turned up ALL the way? I have seen this become an issue on old man Pete’s car. It would push open and recirc, turbo speed would rise and the boost pressure would do weird things. - stock head? Does that include springs? - tried a different MAC valve? Is it plumbed correctly?
×
×
  • Create New...