Jump to content
SAU Community

Boost Gauge Connection


neostagea
 Share

Recommended Posts

has anyone got a mechanical boost gauge connected and if so where did u run the nylon hose thruogh the firewall and where is it connected to in the engine bay? and where have u mounted it in the cabin??

any pics would be appreciated

thanks Brad B)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On mine, the vacuum hose is connected to the rear of the plenum, there is an unused fittingthere that is the right size. The vacuum hose then goes out of the engine bay to the RHS guard, accross the rubber door seal and up the A pillar where the boost guage is located in a POD.

:starwars: cheers :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So... If I want to use that one for my guage, can I remove the stock connection and use the nipple? That pipe on the Skylines just goes to the ECU somehow, right? It's not going directly to the guage on the dash? Cheers!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There is an unused nipple at the back of the plenum, take the rubber cap off it, connect the vac hose to it.

Run the vac hose past the firewall somehow, i used the big gromment next to the ABS, then run the vac hose to the guage.

Mount where desired, enjoy the b00st :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So... If I want to use that one for my guage, can I remove the stock connection and use the nipple? That pipe on the Skylines just goes to the ECU somehow, right? It's not going directly to the guage on the dash? Cheers!

It certainly doesn't go to the gauge in my R34 skyline (or S2 stagea) as the ECU knows the boost (which is why it comes up on my laptop as well as the central gauge..) and goes to the gauge in a wire :-)

Ian

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks, Ian! A mate told me the same thing, but I'm curious as to why I don't see any boost reading in any consult software that I try. I would also like to use that pipe to go directly to a boost guage that i'm fitting, rather than tap off something else.

The only real pipe I can see goes to the MAP sensor, I think. (it's tiny)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks, Ian! A mate told me the same thing, but I'm curious as to why I don't see any boost reading in any consult software that I try.

Most of the consult software out there is crap, written in VB by amateurs.. :P Mine will be out in a month or so (pm me your real email address and I'll send you a copy to test if you'd like) and includes everything you can get out of the port, not to mention real time graphing and 'replay' ability etc.. Written all in C++ :)

The only reason I've written it is that I've seen how bad the ones out there are...

And I guarantee the turbo boost IS coming out of my R34 consult port, as I have had it up on my screen many times while I've been testing my software!

:(

Ian

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Most of the consult software out there is crap, written in VB by amateurs.. :P Mine will be out in a month or so (pm me your real email address and I'll send you a copy to test if you'd like) and includes everything you can get out of the port, not to mention real time graphing and 'replay' ability etc.. Written all in C++ :)

The only reason I've written it is that I've seen how bad the ones out there are...

And I guarantee the turbo boost IS coming out of my R34 consult port, as I have had  it up on my screen many times while I've been testing my software!

:(

Ian

Hi Ian, there is no MAP sensor on my Stagea S1, the ECU has no way of knowing the boost level. I will be very interested in having a look at your Consult software when it is available.

;) cheers :spank:

Edited by Sydneykid
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ah! Thanks Ian and SK! That answers my question. The unused nozzle on the back of the manifold on a Stagea is what the Skyline uses to go to the MAP sensor.

Ian, PM sent... i'd love to monitor my boost digitally! =-]

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
Hi Ian, there is no MAP sensor on my Stagea S1, the ECU has no way of knowing the boost level.  I will be very interested in having a look at your Consult software when it is available.

;) cheers :rofl:

Yep, as per usua,l you are correct - tried it on a series 1 stage today and the things it could get were -

Live Register,Description

X00,RPM

X01,RPM part2

X04,Airflow

X05,Airflow part2

X08,Water Temp

X09,O2

X0b,Speed km/h

X0c,Battery

X0d,Throttle

X12,Exhaust Temp

X13,Bit_Reg1

X14,Injection Time

X15,Injection Time part2

X16,Timing (degree BTDC)

X17,Idle Air Valve %

X1a,AF Alpha %

X1c,AF Alpha Learn %

X1e,Bit_Reg2

X1f,Bit_Reg3

X21,Lean

Finished.,Version 1.10

Where as the series 2 can get -

Live Register,Description

X00,RPM

X01,RPM part2

X04,Airflow

X05,Airflow part2

X08,Water Temp

X09,O2

X0b,Speed km/h

X0c,Battery

X0d,Throttle

X13,Bit_Reg1

X14,Injection Time

X15,Injection Time part2

X16,Timing (degree BTDC)

X17,Idle Air Valve %

X1a,AF Alpha %

X1c,AF Alpha Learn %

X1e,Bit_Reg2

X1f,Bit_Reg3

X21,Lean

X26,Tank Temp

X29,Turbo Boost

X3b,Unkown_X3B

X3d,Unkown_X3D

X3f,Unkown_X3F

X40,Unkown_X40

X43,Unkown_X43

X44,Unkown_X44

X45,Unkown_X45

X46,Unkown_X46

X62,Unkown_X62

X63,Unkown_X63

Finished.,Version 1.05

ie includes the turbo boost, and a stack of other things that we don't know what they are (I'm hoping one is front/rear torque split :P

Ian

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wow mate that's huge, congrats. Glad you found better people to deal with and all seems like it's going in the right direction.
    • The best setting for street is what gives the best tyres wear for your driving style Different tyres like different camber You want the whole surface of the tread to wear flat, if the inside of the tyre is wearing more than the outside reduce camber settings For toe, have the minimum amount to give the handling you want Caster, from my experience if you can adjust it, is as much as you can get without clearance issues And while -2.5° of camber on the front might work well with good tyres for "spirited" cornering, it may be too much for a street car Lots of front camber will effect braking Just like to much rear camber will effect rear traction (rwd), and braking  When I set my Bogan Cruise Ship (VX SS) up for drags I tested how much tyre width I actually had in the rear by doing a hard launch (skid), it originally had -1.5° in the rear, and you could see that the tyre wasn't putting down alot of the tread, I maxed out the settings to get as little camber as I could with the OEM adjustment and some camber bushings and got it down to just under -0.5° with 0 toe, that gave me a fair bit more "rubber on the road" and helped it hook up for my 60' and my 0-100kph And with -1.5° in the front the big old boat handles fine on the street and my tyre wear is nice and even on both front and rear tyres (currently Hankook RS4's) As for semi slicks at the track, again, it depends on alot more IRT the suspension, the track and lots of other things, so, I'll leave that up to people who have more experience, especially with a AWD In saying this, street settings are pretty easy, just look at the tyre wear Meh, Necro thread, it's late at night, and I has been drinking beer
    • Thought I'd give an update. There needs to be scarce details in some areas due to ongoing discussions. Here's the journey of trying to make the booked registration appointment (again). Sent a complaint to Car Inspect outlining the concerns and made some demands. Went to a service center in Geelong, got assaulted with bullshit items on the RWC, as you know. Tried to quote $2.5k AND wanted a structural report Only seemed to be one place around Geelong that does them, they demand $495 just to end up telling me it's f**ked, at least $11k to fix and tried to sell me his own Skyline in the process (bro, wtf?) Started stressing about what I'm supposed to do with this possible pile of steel. Awaiting that, I was sent an angel friend who works in Melbourne and knows real mechanics and body shops.  They laughed at the reported quotes (don't get work done in Geelong) Car underwent some front surgery and brought back better They then sent it to the mechanics for RWC Registration appointment is two days away at this point. Mechanics pointed out two issues: driver's seat and shocks - that's it. He offered couple options and I chose coilovers. Frantically I scoured the jungle realm that is Facebook Marketplace (again). Found what looks to be a decent Series 1 seat actually - $100 Guy is friendly, offers to bring the seat with a colleague who's heading to Geelong (thanks man, that was cool) Seat arrived, looks good. Throw it in my car and drive to Melbourne and drop it to mechanic T-1 day, mechanic reckons job will be done for the fronts only, gets it done by 4PM Mechanic heads to get the coil-overs that night as a favour to help me make the appointment Get driven to Melbourne, drove the car back - RWC Unlocked! ✅ VicRoads tomorrow, the goal is close now. 🙂
    • Gtr are still available through the heritage program but don’t have the wiring 
×
×
  • Create New...