MANWHORE

A GTR solenoid does squat over what the gtst solenoid does.

I think that its too easy to just say, oh, something went through the turbo. But in reality, r33god was using an air filter. there's nothing that went through it. Essentially, by not upholding his warranty, slide is just opening himself up to legal action (the ACCC may back you up with costs as well so it may not cost you anything), not to mention ruining the name of his business.

Seek a lawyer for yourself and go through small claims. You'll be presently suprised that it won't be that expensive. It will work out less than what you paid for your turbo. Let a court decide based on THE LAW, instead of letting him decide on whatever arbitrary reason he BELIEVES is the law.

not true. Depends on which version of the vg30. One of them is identical to the r34 turbo with a steel intake wheel as well.

The cops do not make the law. The law is made by parliament. The cops enforce the law. What I was saying is that as far as i'm aware, there is no law on coilpack covers. So If I wanted to remove mine, I would happily do it (but I don't want to).

got one - pm sent

Seriously, the cops keep trying to defect people on silly things, which makes everyone ask questions like the one asked at the top of this thread. Why would it be illegal is the question to ask yourself. Have a look at the relevant law concerning vehicle standards. I see no mention in there of a requirement of a coilpack cover.

Try doing the test again properly when its not raining, I mean if it was raining, was the test on that cyl completed properly? or rushed?

What the guys said above is correct. Worry about variation between the cylinders rather than the actual number. If you use a different comp tester, the results will be different again. The actual number means squat (unless if it is reading ridiculous like 50 across all 6, which would most likely mean that the tester is f**ked, the person is an idiot and did it wrong, or the whole motor is f**ked)

pm sent matey. That sounds like the one!

got the pipe you need (or at least I believe so - bit hard to tell from your description). My number's 0403 211 482 if you wanna ask more about it - happy to post to melbourne via express post.

Hey Guys Looking for 1 rb crank angle sensor bolt. I haven't checked how much they are at nissan - probably a couple bucks. Does any kind sole have one lying around? I was stupid and didn't use locktite and it rattled out. Cheers Chris

Switching housings on turbos is not that difficult if you do it the right way. If your mechanic is dodgy, he'll just take your money even if he knows the job will go badly. If you just try and smash the housing off with a hammer or lever it off with a long metal bar, you'll stuff it up 110% of the time. Everytime, you'll smash the wheel or chip it. There is a correct way to do it. I've done it so many times. It's not what i'd call easy, but if you do it right, it'll be fine. I use a wire wheel to scratch all the rust off the join of the housing and catridge. I have this bucket of penetrating oil that I put the whole turbo exhaust housing into for about a week. Then I loosen the bolts (usually quite nice after the soaking). And I use the bolts to push the housing off. Before I start the pushing, I use a benzo torch ($20 from bunnings - lasts ages - can do like 20 turbos with it). Cheers

Just have the car level, undo the FILLER plug - the one on the side, and once its level, its good. If you didn't undo the filler and fill it through the gearstick, it is possible to overfill it and it makes a mess, because it splashes out through the breather

that's with the two stage connected

send razorsharp a pm - i believe he has one for sale You looking to borrow or buy?

well, as tested on my car and another r33, it was 4.5 psi (without the two stage bleeder). On some, it might be 4, some might be 5, some might be 6, anything can happen

The stadnard wastegate actuator is actually 4.5 psi (on my standard car with the two stage bleeder disconnected). If you want an 11 psi actuator, I've got one. Bolts straight on

Bit of a late reply to the actuator modding (haven't been on for like 2 months), but i've found the easiest way is to increase the existing curve on it using a hammer. After I'm done, it looks exactly the same as before I touched it. Neat, but the rod is shorter.

No, the rpm I quoted was after doing that.

Joe, already did it from the start

Ok, another option that i've seen with some gcg highflows and other highflows - the catridge is shorter, which means that the wastegate flapper leaks. But i'm guessing that unique already checked this - when you said that they added tension (by bending the rod)

Really easy matey. On my r33 gtst (with a-lsd), the filler bolt is a 10mm hex. I just smash that one out, its not very tight. Smash the drain plug - its a 1/2 inch drive (square). I just use the breaker bar. You can also get special sockets - snap on make one for drain plugs, but you don't need it. Smash that one, the oil will come out. Redo the plug. Fill it through the filler. Tighten the filler. Done.

Also, unless if I have missed it, are you running a fmic?

The hks actuator will not provide you with anything that the profec b won't handle. Not at 18 psi anyways. Cars i've worked on using the usual standard actuator + avcr or profeb b, etc etc all can usually easily hold 18 psi flat. There is some other problem. This may sound silly, but try dropping the exhaust. I.e. just run the turbo straight out into the air.