MANWHORE

I am about to say something that you might not agree with. Believe me when I say that it is not a personal attack against you, but rather, I've owned performance cars for a while and I wish that someone could have told me these sorts of things so that I could have avoided some of the things I've come across. You've said that you weren't doing anything wrong. Fact of the matter is according to the law, you were. Whether you call them fog lights or driving lights, they should not have been on. I beleive that the law on fog lights is fair if you actually understood the physical light properties of a fog light. If you notice, fog lights do not really have much of a cut off - as such, from a distance, at night, they are at least as glary or suprisingly glarier than your normal headlights. BUT, even though they are glary, they have bugger all useable light output since they are basically so low and aimed at the ground. Try going onto a pitch black private racetrack or airstrip (off road) at night with your head lights off and see how far you can see - now start driving, bit faster, bit faster - as you reach about 20-30 ks, you realise you can't see far enough ahead to be able to see anything. Fog lights are really only effective where fog is that heavy that you have your fog lights on and drive about 10km/hr. They do not supplement your vision at all in clear weather, and they do glare other drivers. Whenever I drive my skyline, I try not to give people a reason to pull me over - i.e. not using fog lights, not honking excessively, not swerving around, not accelerating quickly WHEN PEOPLE CAN SEE ME. What you do when people can't see you is another matter. Also, if you want to drive around to a place where people can see you and your car, that's fair enough. There are plenty of those places around. Pick one where other modified cars don't go - not only will it make your car cooler, you won't get targeted by the cops. You've said that you were swerving around and driving with foglights on - unfortunately, driving this sort of car, it's asking for the cops to get ya. Lastly, how you act when you get pulled over makes all the difference in the world. I drove through an RBT on a saturday night in the city in my skyline (for those that have know me, you'll know I have a few interesting parts on my car). I had come from work so i was still in my suit, I was polite, went straight through, no questions. Right in front of me was another car - being inspected and the works. As I drive past, I see some bogan wigger with his cap on.....

I had an AU falcon Classic and the bass was great. That was because it had 6x9s stock in the back. Correct me if I'm wrong, but does your old man's Fangadore also have a small sub in the middle? I can't remember which model did - was it the fairmont ghia or the fairline.

For me, I refuse to use a workshop that won't let me watch. I'm sure someone will comment and say that some workshops will refuse to work on my car, but that's ok for me because I have established a network of workshops for the various 'difficult things' I might need that will let me watch. I try and do all of my own work on my car for this particular reason. I don't trust anyone to treat my car as I treat it myself. My car is black, with almost perfect paint and hardly any swirlies etc. Anyone else who has good paint will realise that you should try not to touch your paint at all if possible and i'm not interested in a mechanic that will just lean over the side guards without a guard protector or put his greasy hands on my guard etc. Before I trust a workshop, I take my paddockbasher wagon there and I actually let them know that I have another car that I'm contemplating taking there, treat my wagon like they will treat my other car.

Many cars don't come with liners either (I realise that the cars I refer to are generally n/a runabouts not turbo performance cars)

Just one thing i'd point out though. The invissibass does produce quite a lot of bass + the sound is relatively good. BUT, it is not going to be crazily loud. If you're looking for a sub that will shake the whole neighbourhood, then this is probably not for you. If you were to jump outside of the car with the doors closed, you won't hear much. That is exactly how I like it - enough for me, not for the rest of the world outside.

Unfortunately, these were not in my skyline, but they are/were in my wagon. In terms of sound, it should sound better in the skyline since the cabin is smaller (the wagon has that whole massive rear section. The jaycar unit is really cute and does fit under the skyline seat. People are actually suprised when I show them the size of the unit itself. The invissibass is physically bigger. because it has a much better enclosure. I have not tried it under my skyline seat and I can't try it for you because some prick thought it would work better in his car than mine and stole it! Yes - they're active - built in amp.

This would probably be a good time for me to jump in. JB Hifi sell something by QMax called invisibass. SQ is excellet. It is an active under the seat 6" woofer. It is suprisingly bassy. I've had one of those before (in my wagon support car and people hae been suprised when they opened up my boot and not found a 10/12 inch with massive box). The Clarion unit is ok, but that ryda price is expensive. The invissibass is about $279 at JB Retail. The last one I had was bought for $239. Jaycar also have a response active sub. They are running them out. Currently $99 trade price. I've got one of those in my wagon. Unfortunately someone stole my invissibass so I bought the response as a cheaper option. The response does do a good job at filling in the lower end frequencies if you want some bass, but it is not as good as the invisibass. The reponse doesn't go anywhere near as loud. As you turn it up, it distorts pretty quickly and makes a 'poooof' noise. Whereas the invisibass would absolutely crank. Another option you might consider is amplified 6x9 inch subs. I've installed those into someone else's car before and have also had good results

Your cooling system (based on the rust on the top of the radiator) is looking shockingly corroded. If it was my car, I'd get the entire thing flushed and pressure tested before I moved forward. That car was a steal, but It'd drive me nuts finding what parts are missing and trying to find them and fix them etc.

I don't think that anyone above has actually said anything that is relevant enough to an r33 to help you. R33s have their battery in the boot. Your stock battery is a battery with a vent outlet and a little vent hose such that the gases vent outside the car. From a legal perspective, as I understand it, your options are to either replace it with another battery with a vent outlet or use a drycell. I've always had a drycell in my car and my r33 batteyr compartment looks like a new car - no acid splash, no rust, etc. Compared that to some other cars i've seen that look totally shocking at the back there. I am running the battery from the group buy section from wrxhoon. If you want info on batteries, i'd suggest reading that whole thread as its a good place to start.

To answer your question, any of those tyres on your preference list are ok and the order is also ok (personal preference). The question does come to mind though, if you are driving a 350 rwkw gtr, why are you being povo on tyres? Ultimately, I'd much rather save up and not drive the car for a few weeks than buy 2nd hand tyres. As said above, while they may have some tread left, and may not be completely dried out, they will still be 'drier' to some extent and have less grip - on a 350rwkw gtr in the rain, would you really want that? Over the past few years, numerous high powered (and even near standard) skylines on here have been written off because of poor tyres.

Turbo 1 is a vg30, in the bush bearing model. The rear housing is rubbish - if you measure the bolt pattern, the circle has a slightly different radius to the OP6 housing, so it won't fit onto the usual catridges.

Got some, sydney north, Hercules g3000v 225 50 r16, happy to let them go for $100 each, brand new. They're good tyres. call chris on 0403 211 482

Hi Ben How much difference would you say it made in your opinion in terms of rpm and actual feel. I believe that it makes a lot of difference in terms of feel.

I've seen many carbon fibre bonnets come off actually. It's really hilarious to watch (not for the owner of the car though). They often smash backwards and smash the roof and the windscreen. Sometimes they crack badly and bits of the bonnet flies off.

could also be aftermarket nolathane/urethane bushes - they creak like a bitch when the grease goes away.

That is hardly what I would call cheap for a workshop price. If you're in sydney (i'm too tired from work and can't be bothered to look up) have a chat to northern beaches performance. You'll be pleasantly suprised at the quality of work and price of the job - tell trent chris sent ya.

I am very interested in hychill. My wagon (91 subaru liberty - r12) needs a regas because it has no gas left (and the usual leak check etc - it is 17 years old!). I'm in sydney. John, since you work for hychill, do you know any sau friendly people that are willing to offer us a good price? Also, how much does a typical regas cost using hychill? I've shopped around for a r134a regas for my other car, and the cheapest I found was around $50 retail.

sk, i've got one have had for a while, but i just haven't been posting.

It works without an aftermarket ecu. Just get rid of the stock solenoid. Either that, or get a jaycar iebc and use it to control the solenoid (and use a restrictor to control the boost level). The jaycar iebc will allow you to have the quickest possible boost build and best control over the boost curve compared to any ebc out there.

What I do is I start with a brass t piece. Solder the third leg closed. Then I use my micro drill bits used for drilling electronics like printed circuit boards. I just start drilling bigger until I get the right boost. Either that, or start big and solder it and go smaller. soldering the brass is very easy. that way you don't have to keep buying nozels. the t piece costs like $2.

You'll be suprised matey. I have done extensive research and consideration on the japanese movement towards quality after WWII led by people such as Deming. A company like Mines is not just like a bogan exhaust place here in australia. They won't just spend 1 day jerry rigging an exhaust together and selling it like that. E.g. if you go to any bogan exhaust shop, ask them to make an exhaust for you, they'll make it in a few hours. But that is not how the japnese are. It would be engineered so well and so perfect that it is as good as oem quality. That is how the japanese operate - quality centric focus.

northern beaches performance are top blokes. very honest and good at what they do. trent can be a bit hard to get a hold of. Sam will usually pick up his phone or call you back if he misses you.

jeez, didn't really think about double dems. 21st - that was ages ago too!

Thanks for the offer abobob. I've got a job atm. Guys, he's only being nice and offering people a job. Law jobs are bloody hard to get.

daveo, what's up with the car being off the road? is it dead? or being upgraded?