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Hi, I'm in the process of changing fuel hose and all went to plan except for this one hose.. No matter how much i tighten the clamp (efi) it will not stop wheeping I even tried adding another clamp and ended up maxing them both out. I have now tried a utilux clamp because this was fitted previously but I'm not keen on them due to digging into the hose I've also done this up extremely tight and it still leaks. These have been tightend in stages. Is this some sort of aftermarket fuel pressure regulator? I used the same size hose fitted 8mm

Thanks heaps. Think I'm onto something got bad continuity from the a/c fuse to a/c relay on one of the fuse contact points.

Hi, Doing some fault finding on my 33. I've had issues with my a/c not working it did a few years ago.. I've decided to dive back in and get this sorted. I've looked at all the similar issues posted here and have tried everything I can think of yet no go. But. I can't remember if pressing the a/c button on the climate control would turn it on? Only pressing the auto button will turn the climate control unit on showing a/c then I have to lower the fan speed.. (no compressor kick in) Can someone please let me know of pressing the a/c button will turn it on also? Cheers

Compressor wheels hit housing. So i'm in the process of changing some piping and noticed the compressor wheel has been hitting. Is this a sign the turbo is on the way out? Has the usual side to side shaft play very minimal same as in and out. Still boost's hard running 17 psi on a GCG-S1 Check the red arrow in the pic pretty sure that's not normal no idea what is...

Its a turbo. Yes i did notice the loss of power it was slow to boost up while sounding like a screaming cat. Ive changed the inlet manifold gasket and water hoses underneath and reused the gasket that connects the halfs on the stock plenum with some gasket maker not rtv.. In the meantime i just found a company that makes the same rubber gaskets but it includes all the bolt holes not just 2. Ill see how i go this week.

R33 plenum loose Hey guys. Im in the process of changing all the coolant lines under the inlet manifold and replacing the gaskets. When i started to seperate the plenum i noticed it was loose I removed only 4 bolts and it had play in it I thought thats not good and maybe the bolts are loose underneath but nope they were tight as. The gasket did look like it had been blown out the left hand side slightly so thats maybe why? Also the new gasket kit comes with a new one but its paper thin so doubt ill use it as the stock one seems alot thicker..

Make sure you find a good tuner! Ive found that some cbf I've been to 3 different tuners and gained 40rwkw and have gone from 40 knock to 24. btw 8000g seems very expensive.

I gave this a shot with no luck. Still shows a 12v when on or off. Cheers

Thought id post here as ive got problems with a/c in my 33 ? Firstly i thought it was tune related but must have just been the timing of it. Ive had everything checked by a autoelec including the gas (full) Basically i can get it work by earthing pin 9 or 46 Also at the relays and the dryer. Ive even checked continuity again and fuses and tested relays. I also tried a spare climate control box i had and another thermistor with no luck. When i check pin 9 and 46 with the a/c on or off they both show 12v So i take it the ecu is not doing its job and grounding? Anyone know the best way to bypass the ecu? I tried a method posted here but it just pops the a/c fuse.

Nah i dont have it. That did cross my mind

So i tried another thermistor out of a wreck and no go. Ive found that pin9 (ac relay) Goes through the fog light relay when checking continuity So fingers crossed its the cause. Now to find another relay..

Had my tuner hook his laptop up and we had a look around. The only option to do with a/c was revs when its turned on. Had a play around today with a test night on the ecu when i tried pin 9 (ac relay) the compressor fired straight up. Waiting to try another thermistor

I had thermistor out to have a look and left it all apart so the auto elec checked that and said it was getting a signal Still doesn't mean its working i guess? Going to hit the tuner up today and see what they say. Cheers

R33 tune now no a/c So I've had a good search around and can't find much info on this. Basically i had my car tuned 2 weeks ago and it seems that the tune or whatever has been done has stopped my a/c from working. Could this be true? I had a auto elec have a look and he checked everything! and was confused as to way the compressor would not kick in unless it was earthed and the gas was spot on. I told him that its running a aftermarket ecu (powerfc) and he suggested that something could be wrong and it seems to be ecu related. I did a sensor check and its showing 0v Could it be something related to the powerfc?

R33 strut bolt torque specs Does anyone know the correct nm of torque for the bottom strut nut on a 33? Tried searching and looking in manuals but can't seem to find it. The 32 manual states around 120nm. Also the bolts are apparently 1 use only should I use a bit a loctite when reinstalling them?

Hey guys, I got home tonight and decided to top up my washer bottle then i noticed this strange sound coming from the rear of the engine around the last injector I know there are water lines around there. Ive had no leaks and no loss of coolant It's had after market injectors fitted but that was before i bought it 2 years ago Its also running a 044. Could it be fuel related? I do recall reading something ages ago about a similar noise and it had something to do with a aftermarket fuel pump? Maybe i'm way off and its trapped air in the cooling system? I got it on video

Wasn't worried just curious... Anyhow did a test today anyway 122 123 122 123 123 121 That was dry didn't have oil on hand Yea looks low but it's not using a drop of oil Last rb was a litre every 2 weeks with the lowest being 110

So I purchased my car a while ago and was told it had a rebuild But now I'm curious.. I asked the workshop that did the work/invoice and they said no idea or its fake Yet it's dated from 2003 so it was a while ago Someone told me to check compression and cold plugs Compression will just tell me the health?? Which I know is good made 218rwkw on 15psi standard highflowed turbo. The cluster reads 126000ks with a body/interior to match the only thing that makes me think it has had a rebuild is the sump has been removed (see pics) What else should I look for without taking the head off.

I know this a common problem and I've had it before on a previous 25det Now I'm having this problem again The usual crank 100rpm then it dies then it's fine on the next crank. I've tried the usual cleaning the acc and cold start valve but It didn't work this time I found a recipet in the glove box and someone has played with the powerfc cold start settings. What else can I try?

Not that i can see but there is something on the fin top left http://imageshack.com/a/img842/5954/urmbi.jpg I run 10 but does spike to 12 at times

Hey guys Basically i was driving along going from 4th to 5th and a puff of blue smoke came out the back between the gear change I have done a bit of searching and there is talk of valve stem seals But only just over the last week my turbo has been making a whining noise as it starts to boost and hesitates when i first take off after starting the car (not thrashing) Now ive taken the piping off and there is a bit of blow by in the pipe before the turbo The turbo is clean but does have shaft play 1 second in out not sure if this is normal How else can i check to make the turbo hasn't gone bad Do i need to drop the exhasut side off

Still got a/c controls ?

Another member msg me showing this picture Looks like its joined thanks for your help

Just after the arrow its metal and plugs in just before the turbo I would use another hose but its pretty close to the manifold That is probably why its metal

I am making changes to my setup Can anyone tell me what this is called ? I am trying to find one as mine has been chopped/capped I know its pcv related I just cant seem to find it.