Russman

It's been a long time since I've been to a meeting. Maybe over a year. I hope to make this one.

I'd go to a motorsport place. Meridian or Brown davis are in melbourne.

Hmmm. I'd just go the same front and back. Then you can rotate too.

Wow... 43 at PI and 15 at OP! Superlap mate. Do it. Slicks or semi's?

Staggered rims on a front wheel drive? Is that common?

34 and 33 gtr wheels are +30. Only diff is 18 vs 17 inch. Tyre profile will make outside diameter similarish... With gtr front guards you won't have a problem with outside. Only inside problems with 265's. Spacer would fix this if you're happy to run them. Rears shoud be fine on inside, may need to pump the guards a bit to fit that rubber. Heck, with cheap AO50 semi's it'll be worth a try and spacers to make em work!!! Check your clearance with 235's. It's prob about 5-7mm away from the suspension arm. That's a decent gap. Also camber will not change how close it is to that suspension arm. It follows the tilt of the wheel with camber coz the upper control arm adjustment for camber is above that.

I'm from the same area and keep seeing unmarked and marked cop cars on reynolds road. Very easy to creep over 70kph there. I even saw an unmarked toyota kluger!

Yeah. Castor is good for drift cos it helps the steering return to centre when doing mad snakies. Cmon man. Drift is sik!

Yes that is correct. Dynamic camber is a good thing so you're gettting more camber when you need it and not when you don't (braking).

Castor should not change with more or less camber. Correct me if I'm wrong people. Dane. +2mm rear = drift?

Everything still for sale except the headlights.

Don't worry about it man Buy a heat gun and next time you go to winton get a reading of the outside, middle and inside of the tyre and adjust the camber to suit. Try to get even temp across the tyre and that's the best camber setting you can have for that track. Problem is if you're tight like me. Don't wanna pay $100 for a heat gun To me a 'understeer-less' car is more important that tyre wear. Could also be caused by braking wear

Yep. Get a harness bar made up. You won't regret it. It's the safest way to do it.

I'm hoping to make it with Abbi as well.

Let me know if you want me to drive it there for you That's cool...

I'm running 245/40/17 on 33 GTR rims. Comes damn close to suspension (Less than 3mm). I won't go wider. 265's will almost definitely rub on the inside unless you run spacers and then pump guards (or fit GTR guards). If they do fit and then run the AO50's it'll be freiken awesome.

Welcome. See you at the track. Post up some pics of your car.

Don't think so. Might go up with some of the guys but I won't be driving my car.

Headlights sold.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...ul-t296923.html Just saw these which claim to be h3c's. These are not what fit the projector headlight that you are likely to have. You are probably right with H3's If you wanna sell the H1's let me know.

1. 1980 Ford Escort Rally Pack 2ltr 2. 1983 VH Commodore V8 3. 1988 R31 GTSX Coupe RB20DET 130rwkw's 4. 1990 R32 GTSt RB20DET 230rwkw's (Current) 5. 1997 VS SS Commodore V8 (Current) Plus a heap of other cars that I bought and sold... haha. Can't beat an old rally car to teach you how to drive!!!

R32 N1 headlights take the H1 straight up. They're expensive though.

That is probably right but I'm yet to see a 32 turbo with the small brakes.

It may be inferior in performance but mine has hung on with 24psi pushing 230kw and limiter all day. If it's a reliable engine you want then 32 is best. If I was buying a car now I would be looking at the silvia platform. Probably an S14. Performance parts are easier to get and cheaper. Also they are probably a better chassis for hill climbs, motokhana's and drift. Of course they do well at the track too. So you can have an aus S14 but not a SR S13 with the old rules?

cheap