CRSKmD
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Pulled on a bit of loom under the glove box to try and cable tie it up a bit nice and heard a short somewhere behind the dash Pulled the climate control and dash out to investigate and remember I did in fact buy this car when i was younger and cannot blame the previous owner for everything Ended up finding this section of very brittle wire way up behind the centre air vents Tided up looms and removed redundant stuff (old radium harness, varex wiring, unknown crap) from past me and previous owners I found this random fuse box in my draw of electrical junk and have set it up to be a fused power with ignition source for whatever i need moving forwards While I was in the zone for wiring I also chased the reverse circuit and repaired that so the 32 has reverse lights finally though two candles may provide more light, it is still a win -
let see how the rest of the fixes go...
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I used 227 which isn't super stiff probably should have used 252. but i had an open tube of 227 already. also i'm sure it could be melted out with fire.
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Plan A in progress.
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Something else I have been faffing with while the car was off the road is making the AC work. Assuming the car isn't at a thermal limit the idea of having AC while waiting in line to go on track sounds delightful. I have actually been lugging around the weight of the entire system since 2018 when the RB25NEO went in without it working at all. The main reason was in the first few events before I got around to re-gassing it the rubber hose that runs under the manifold had the factory heat wrap/sleeve fail resulting in this: ~2 years ago I purchased a complete used R32 AC line set but when I finally went to install it the line i needed was different where the expansion section is I found a local place that was able to replace the rubber section and re-crimp. They also added some modern heat sleeve to the hose Tight fit but fingers crossed this is the last physical piece of the puzzle needed
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the top black section is bonded to the silver section with some form of rubber. I assume to isolated NVH from the box
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I do not want to install a short shifter and the only other stock throw shifter I have seen is the Nismo "Rigid shifter" for $290 So plan A is to fill it with sikaflex to stiffen it up and hope for the best
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I recall saying it felt like there was flex in gear just after the selector fork snapped so i assume it as related to the part fatiguing. however with the spare box into the car with the same shifter before I noticed the amount of flex there is in the shifter its self. I think it always had some given the nature of how its constructed with the rubber isolator in between but this feels excessive? IMG_5932.MP4
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yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
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Current state of the 32 Had a mate help me pull the old box in the driveway to get to the root cause of the shifter issue and as expected it was shifter fork related. However, it was not the fork breaking like last time but instead the OEM keyway which had been cut off the stock fork and welded onto the billet fork I had made ~2 years ago. I was surprised to see the OEM keyway have such harsh corners which are a stress concentrator and just asking to be the weak point. At the same time this box was rebuilt with the billet selector fork I had my spare box rebuilt to the same speak. Fingers crossed it won't have the same failure as it already in the car. Couple other things left to button up while the car is on stands including a wideband/controller and addressing some power steering leaks that have popped up.
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Checking a video I took of another run can see quite a different AFR Graph.
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so what do i trust. The dyno one of indeterminate age or my new one?
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My wideband which is post turbo, pre-cat reads leaner. Than the dyno one in tail pipe which is backwards to above. I guess its possible the dyno one or my one is out of calibration. Though mine is pretty new still...
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got bamboozled by the edited post haha "I just went through this, on the dyno only to realise most people consider the one in the exhaust pipe to be the more accurate one. My car is now tuned 0.3 rich. :p"
