Lithium

6boost are amazing value for money, but if money is not so much of a worry the Full race ones would be my pick

Hmm well going by the results I've heard of the 67mm S400SX turbos doing - the compressor wheel is probably capable of pretty serious things, all comes down to how much exhaust gas the 80mm turbine can do. I'm picking that if the cam specs thrown around are at all relevant to this setup, its capable of quite happily cracking 600kw on a hubdyno running E85.

Sounds awesome so far- not sure if you are joking about needing a bigger turbo though haha. Have you already maxed it out, and thats the motivation for saying that - or is it just because it spools better than you anticipated so figure a bit more lag for a bit more power would be acceptable? This turbo is advertised as being able to ~95lb/min of air - if thats accurate, this has the potential to be a 1000hp vehicle... call me conservative, but that might be just about enough for a track car

Yep that makes sense, sounds like a really good balance for something not completely out of its tree

They actually seem to push more than 4088rs in the cases I have seen, interestingly enough.

Link? I am not convinced you are confusing FP GT3794HTA with a genuine Garrett turbo, not that it matters.... They seem very impressive

Never heard of out, Forced performance do their own hta turbo with a similar name though which I don't know of anyone using on an rb but I recon it would be a good high power combo. I know someone with a 3586hta on an rb30 and it makes over 500kw on e30 with awesome delivery.

Very very nice - so to clarify, there will be dyno results for an EFR9180 and a twin EFR6258 setup coming soon?? Are the setups ones which the potential of these turbos might be unleashed? Either way, and fingers crossed for some good numbers

Percentage of the price would be more indicative of the comparison

I know someone pushing nearly 300kw @ wheels through a Hayabusa motor in a 500kg Toyota... that should be a little less temporary citizen-esque

Kando stuff seems fine, though polished isn't really good for anything but rice factor - trying to see the relevence there. I'd consider their products one of my top choices for a build if I didn't already have a decent turbo. The ATP housings aren't Garrett made etc - they are a solution they have offered and aren't their main crust so its not too surprising that there are very workable niggles. Best option for Garrett turbos at the moment, Kando don't turbo twin scroll turbos and these ATP housings definitely perform very very well on the cars I've encountered with them.

Bah, people put GT40Rs on Hayabusas - where's the sense of adventure

Ohh I'll go hunting for that! And for the OT war, not an Apple fan either - did give the iPhone 4 a chance to try and impress but Samsung Galaxy S2 ftw, have converted a number of iPhone fans with it without actually trying to

MarioGTR may have at some point?

Do you have a Borg Warner S300SX (83-75 I'm guessing..)? If so, any pics or results?

Amongst others, why is that?

The one here hasn't been used yet, another mate has been running his for about a year and another I am not sure now... As he had been running the chra for years anyway but then swapped housing and manifold setup for response etc speaker some where along the line

Don't bother trying to use studs, pull them out and use cap screws... Got a turbo with the same housing here and it's no problem.

Yeah sounds like a good call. A bit of a bummer on all fronts, was quite keen to see how it'd behave - another mate has a GTX3076R going onto his EVO, would be interesting to compare.

I can only go from what I am told but the owner said on inspection shaft play was enough for the compressor to touch the housing

I've wondered that myself - was hoping to update the post but you guys already got there, the fin was bent and the owner tried to straighten it, but broke it off.

I for one have had my GT3076R since WAY before I was aware of Kinugawa turbos, would freely admit a T67 is as responsive if I drove a car running one and found it to be the case. I also got my GT3076R for ~$2000nzd, the cheapest I can get a Kando T67 landed is $1400-1500nzd which I'd have needed an exhaust manifold, external wastegate and a bunch of other custom work to get installed. I have less power than people are making with T67s, a large part of that is to do with supporting mods, normal 98 petrol and the fact I just haven't bothered pushing it that hard. So far the highest I've seen anyone making on a GT3076R and a T67 is pretty much equal, so while I'm definitely not going to flame T67s - I think its basically retarded to bag the Garrett GT-series seeing as they've been around so much longer and are proven to all f**k. If I were to do it all again now I'd personally go a Holset HX35 over a T67. BTW, heres a recently installed Kinugawa T67 I referred to looking forward to the results from a bit earlier in the thread. It handled being started and a couple of quick boosts before compressor wheel met compressor housing, the turbo has been disassembled to check for oil starvation or any other installation related issues and it basically seems that one got through QC. Or something.

Thats because torque is on a finer scale the whole way through, its why I prefer to tune to MBT using the torque curve - its easier to spot differences. Its also way torque curves often tend to have huge dips etc if the dyno software allows you to scale to just minimum torque to max torque, instead of 0-max torque.

I made it obvious that I wasn't writing up a full tuning guide based on my view of the world and quantified that by saying everything depends on the case. If you have tuned that much and understand MBT then think about your typical timing curve in a non knock limited setup. Keeping it basic, consider timing and fuel both are a part of the start of a burn you have created and are measuring the results of, timing defines the start of the bang, fuel defines the burn rate. Cylinder pressure, piston speed, and all sorts can affect or should be considered when punching numbers to result in a good reliable tune imho. Odds are I either don't know what I am talking about or you will again read just the surface of what I said and decide as such (or both) so I'll shut up now.

I would leave the ignition timing bit out of that question, the timing should be decided on case by case. Same thing goes with AFR. I am on my phone so will be a little nonspecific but I tend to use richer AFRs with increasing cylinder pressures, there are safety advantages to having quicker burn speeds but too much fuel isn't good either. Requirements of the car owner need to be considered, rich in a race car isn't always preferable.. More because of fuel consumption reasons than anything else. ECT and IAT trim are there to help deal with high stress situations too, its up to the tuner to try and anticipate from the info the can collect to create a map which is safe, and performs to the owners requirements in all situations. Don't assume that if you see a rich mixture that its a safer tune than a leaner one, or vice versa.