Hanzie

So I was a victim of a shoddy mechanic, went to a new place today for an alignment, and afterwards they said they got it down to -1°. Which I'm happy with. Turns out the toe was the culprit. Glad I asked SAU before buying camber arms. Cheers fellas.

That's what I'm thinking, had a look myself (I'm a fkn noob) noticed the radius arm bushes and ball joint, but didn't notice anything else, really hoping I fall in the category of having a shite mechanic, will book in with another place, ask for stats of camber, toe etc, and post for you pros to help me, appreciate the help from all, glad I didn't buy the arms. This is why I love SAU.

JGTC it's front suspension that's my issue, but I may see if I can get the stuff gtsboy stated above checked out, cause I've never had a problem with wheel alignments till now, recently replaced the right control arm as the ball joint was buggered, and the radius arm bushes. So ill get the other bushes and arms checked, but thought they would notice something wrong when doing the alignment, i also jacked the car up and had a look and couldn't see any other damage, besides what I've gotten fixed.

Ok ill call the smash repairs and see where they get chassis straightening done, but cars never had a crash or anything so not sure if chassis is damaged but worth a look, I might even get a 2nd place to try and align it, as I read a post on SAU where someone had the same deal, 1 place couldn't align it, but another could, the mech could be trying to stitch me up for extra work.

Completely stock height and wheels, I asked the mech what was causing the negative camber and he couldn't tell me, just said I need aftermarket adjustment parts, I asked if anything was bent or seemed damaged and he said no. So how would I go about finding what's caused it? I've never really worked on suspension so I'm outta my element.

Hey guys, Ive read a tonne of posts about this, but most seem to either be about race car camber or lean into a different direction. So quick info about my situation, driving to work in an r34 25gt, and my front tyre busted, massive wear on the inside, got new tyres and an alignment, the mech said he could only get the camber to -2°, but as mine is a daily and a 25gt, I'm not looking for much camber, would like to get back to even wear on tyres maybe -.75°/-1°. Been looking at adjustable upper camber arms, (just incase I ever get rims or decide to lower it) but wanted reviews before I buy, just incase some are notorious for easy breaks, squeaking/clunking after a short time etc The ones I've looked at are: SRI - $220 Gktech - $349 (so far thinking these ones) Zss - $459 Cusco - $479(heard they are really good for price) Driftwork - $216 Hard race - $499 I looked at ikeya formula, but too expensive for a 25gt. Has anyone had good/bad cases with any of the above arms? Sorry if I've forgotten any details to include for further help.

Cheers for the reference to vulture motorsports, but any idea if both parts are interchangeable?

I need a new oxygen sensor, and I'm sure my part number is (22690-AA005), but most my searches for that part come to a halt, the only place I can find one is amayama ($300), but I need a cheap one for a month MAX! So my question is, will (22690-AA007) fit correctly? The only difference I know of is that's the turbo version.

I did check ebay and the only colours they had were standard blue and red, was preferably hoping to get green. I'll check justjap and boost junkies and see if they have any in green.

Hey, I am looking for a place or a person on SAU that knows where I could buy coolant silicone hoses in colour, I've searched for sometime and can't find anything, hoping someone on here sells or knows where I can buy them.

Ok, so the specs I found were incorrect, adjusted the tps to .45 and all sweet

So I have checked the voltage output of the tps, both plugs (brown and grey) and the brown one I think is giving to much power to the signal, it reads as such, Brown plug Negative- 0.02 Signal- 2.62 Positive- 5.13 Grey plug Negative- 0.03 Signal- 11.15 Positive- 0.03 Active signal wire on brown plug- 0.71 Wide open throttle- 4.20 Does this look right? I couldn't really find any specs other then active signal and WOT, which seem in spec

Anyone?

I got a rb25de r34 neo n/a, when I start the car it idles on 2000rpm, after about 5 minutes I can turn the car off and start it up again and it will idle like normal, when it's 2000 rpm, disconnecting the tps will lower it to normal aswell, what could cause this?

Hey, cheers for that, the one I'm looking for came off a 98 r34 rb25de,if it matches up could you check the disc inside is straight please?

Hey i am looking to buy a broken CAS sensor, Part number: 23731 5l300. just needing the slotted disc on the inside as my current one is warped.

I've only done timing belts on commodores in the past, and with the lack of information google offers, i cant find any advice on how to realign the cams, every site says put it tdc and they should be aligned, so while doing the timing belt, how to I realign the cams?

i have to say you had a great call!! Thanks a tonne! Could i also get some advice on how to do that? or could i just take it off the two top gears and rotate them to align with the marks and put the belt back on? or would it be a timing belt change pretty much?

So i finally got the time to go out and check the CAS and timing, the CAS was working thanks to 89CAL checking suggestions, But my timing is out an something awful, and im assuming that the camshaft being out by 3 teeth would have caused bent valves? I have attached pictures to show the timing. how would i go about aligning the marks up properly? and is there a way to check if the valves are bent without taking everything apart?

I had it tdc and marked the CAS and belt, and placed it back on the same way, but to me it seems to be a timing issue, but I am no where near as experienced as the rest of yas, i am half and half on whether it is a timing issue, but was just wondering if there is a certain way to make sure the static timing is correct to rule it out, once it's running I will be able to do a proper setting of the timing but until it starts I'm kinda lost, i dont think I have missed any plugs or earth's or anything, i took my time doing the head gasket and made sure everything was hooked up before bolting anything on.

So ive just finished doing a head gasket and when i went to start it up it tries to kick over but it doesnt, there is a rich smell of fuel, but i think my timing is off, i was wondering how i could check it to rule it out, but the car doesnt actually run so i assume i would only be able to check the static timing, if someone could give me some instructions on how to check this i would be so grateful!! rb25de neo r34 1998

All but the bottom right go on the exhaust manifold, and the bottom right goes above the injector closest to the firewall, hope This helps someone in need later on

Or you may be right and it has that nipple kinda plug that you have to pinch in the holes and then expands to secure itself?

Do you mean the bottom right goes towards the injector loom and tps wiring? And top left goes on the plenum? I just wanna make sure cause I think you may have meant to say bottom left instead.

And was I right about the bottom right bracket going above the exhaust manifold?