
Hanzie
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Everything posted by Hanzie
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Rb25de Bracket Locations, Help Needed, Pictures Included!
Hanzie replied to Hanzie's topic in General Maintenance
So would it be easier to install the plenum first then the brackets? I'll be be working on the car tomoz so ill be able to have a better look, I appreciate your help a tonne! -
Rb25de Bracket Locations, Help Needed, Pictures Included!
Hanzie replied to Hanzie's topic in General Maintenance
The black bracket on the top right has been located and installed I think the bottom left bracket may go just above the exhaust manifold?? -
Hey, i have just finished installing a new head gasket for the first time on this engine, i am about to install the intake plenum and air ducting, but i still have these 4 brackets left to attach, im not sure where abouts they go, and i dont want to put the plenum on before putting the brackets on, if someone could point me in the right direction that would be helpful, if possible could someone post pics?
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Where are you located Ben C34? I was after the part number to check the prices with amayama, but got that answer here as well lol
- 4 replies
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- CAS
- Part number
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Hey i need the part number for the aluminum bracket that the crankshaft position sensor bolts on too, i have NISSAN FAST on my computer but can not locate it on that, i have an 1998 R34 25gt rb25de. Appreciate any help!!
- 4 replies
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- CAS
- Part number
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DW, i just realized i have already contacted you through eBay.
- 217 replies
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- yellow jacket
- coil packs
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Hi, im after coilpacks to fit a 1998 ER34 Skyline 25GT RB25DE Neo, Does the YJ-RB2025-N fit? Was also wondering on return policy.
- 217 replies
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- yellow jacket
- coil packs
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Just went and started the car and there was no white smoke, and it ran fine for a min till the revs dropped down from initial startup then started sputtering, if it was the head gasket wouldnt it do it all the time?
- 6 replies
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- r34
- rough idle
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And as it's completely stock car, is there any downfall to using the head gasket repair sealants? Heard they can dry out other rubbers and cause them to crack, any truth to this? And is it a decent fix for temp use? I'm not a fan of them but if they work it'll give me more time to get the cash for the proper job
- 6 replies
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- r34
- rough idle
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I was afraid of that lol but was sceptical as it has been an intermittent problem, I don't drive it atm and all started once it was in the shed for 3 months while I was on compo, hence why I didn't think it was the HG, and it didnt have any other symptoms of it but looks like I'm up for a few grand for repairs, any home tests I can to to be sure it's the HG? other then a compression test of course
- 6 replies
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- r34
- rough idle
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I got an 98 R34 rb25de NA and its had a Sputtering problem for a while, ive replaced the fuel filter, air filter, spark plugs, AFM. I went out today and went to check the coilpacks resistance which was : 1 .796 1.6 2 .765 1.5 3 .781 1.4 4 .846 1.7 5 .739 1.4 6 .757 1.4 i also replaced a snapped off bolt that held coilpack 4 inplace, and when i pulled out the spark plug a small amount of coolant came with it, not sure if it was in the hole or ontop of the plug as a fair amount of coolant poured over the engine once i removed a hose, half a cup, probably less, i put a rag down the hole to remove any coolant left there but the rag came out completely dry! The spark plugs were also fouled, all of them, so i put in new ones, once i put it all back together and started the car, it has the slightest amount of white smoke coming out the exhaust, doesnt smell sweet either. I know that if the coolant was from the spark plug hole is a sign of a blown head gasket and so is white smoke, but i dont think it is one as i dont have milky oil or any discoloration, no oil in radiator and no overheating, and ive barely driven it in the past 3 months, I think that the coilpack 4 is shot and needs replacing, so my question is, is that what could be causing the problem? or is that reading ok? could it also be a blasted injector?? bad intake manifold gasket? as i noticed it was in average condition, not broken or cracked but not straight. any suggestions would be helpful!!!
- 6 replies
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- r34
- rough idle
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thanks mate, will do, will also get the proper hosing for it. Hope it all goes well and stops the leak!
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Awesome! thanks fellas! What does that pipe do anyways? it had a split in it so i just replaced it with standard hose, not the stuff made to bend that way, that will be fine wont it?
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I had just replaced a hose line, but when i pulled off the end (circled in red) the grommet was split and broke to pieces on me, So i am just wondering how i would go at replacing it, the auto shop i went too had no idea what i was talking about, and super cheap auto couldnt help me either, the car starts and runs fine, but i just dont know the severity of that hose in particular, could someone tell me what the hose does, and how i would go about replacing the grommet or where to find one? i dont want to drive it atm cause i just fixed it and i dont want any more damage to come to it.
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And its back, after about a month of driving it, it seemed fine and running perfect and then last week the chugging was back, the exact same sound and problem, so i bought ECUtalk, and plugged it in and got it working, but it says "error 55" which is no malfunction, so im now confused of what to do if the ecu says its running fine :S Tomorrow ill be pulling the coilpacks out and checking them with a multimeter to make sure they are fine as i am assuming that either the coilpacks or fuel pump is the cause. But has anyone got any ideas on where to go and what to check?
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LOL maybe i shouldve returned it, but they misplaced it, besides, in 100 years a geologist may dig it up and be as confused as i was when i found it. HAHA
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Well i was bloody confused on how the beeping could continue without a battery connected, hence no power, and thats why i asked on this forum, i just had no idea about it lol but after looking and hearing for the sound i noticed it was coming from around the glovebox area, so i started to pull the dash out, but once i pulled the glovebox out, there it was, the consistent beeping that was like a splinter in my brain! A DAMN TAMAGOTCHI! It was one of my Girlfriends siblings, i assume when they went to put the tamagotchi in the glovebox they closed it too fast and it fell behind it......So I buried the tamagotchi in the backyard so the kids wouldnt lose it in my car again HAHA!
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Solved, how do I delete this topic?
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I have recently fixed a chugging sound in my car, i have replaced the oil filter, air filter, spark plugs, cleaned the MAF, New petrol in, Injector cleaner, and octane boost, and reset the ECU... the car is running fine now, performance wise, but i have a constant beeping sound and i cant tell where its coming from or what is making it, i have disconnected the batterey to reset the ECU again cause i thought it may have been the HICAS, but as i disconnect the battery, it still makes the beeping sound, i have ensured that the car doors are closed, and the seatbelts were plugged in to rule them out. Someone please help as i have spent the last 3 months fixing it, and i dont want any more damage to come to it. 1998 R34 Nissan Skyline N/A Neo RB25DE
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Hell yeah, sounding so much better now so far on the car i have changed the oil, cleaned inside the filter box (fair few leaves and foam from off the air intake, was so surprised), new air filter, cleaned the AFM which was bloody filthy, added extra fuel with octane booster and injector cleaner, new fuel filter, new spark plugs, new battery. So tomorrow ill be taking it to the servo and full tanking it. its currently on 3 quarters and a half. but hoping that little bit more fuel, makes the chugging disappear completely, If it all works well and the car is fixed, ill be making a donation to SAU, as every detail that came from this site was so helpful! i applaud you all!!
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wasnt too bad, but if i was to do that, id have to unplug a coil, put it back together and do that for each coil, its alot of work, but as we speak, im cleaning the AFM as it was filthy! really filthy! and changing oil, plus ill add more fuel and octane booster and injector cleaner through
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to get to the coil packs in a rb25de, i have to remove the intake manifold as stated in the link below, unless your talking about a different way :S http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/122284-r34-replacing-spark-plugs-on-neo6-rb20de-rb25de/
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how would i be able to run the car and disconnect a coil at a time when i have to take the intake manifold and disconnect about 10 plugs? i would have done that to begin with lol
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no timing light so ill just clean the contacts, ive looked around this forum and google, but i dont know where the CAS im planning to go down and get some Contact cleaner tomoz and clean the AFM + New air filter so hope it helps cause im running low on $$$
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haha i feel so dumb bout asking the AFM now, i should have put 2 together LOL! ok well ill look on the forum on how to find and clean the AFM and CAS, and tomorrow ill reset the ecu and put in a new air filter, ill make sure the tyre's are straight because i've been warned about the HICAS. Just curious to why resetting the ECU would fix this, and should i do that everytime i fit parts? Im quite new to most this mechanical work, ive only done a few things before, so i apologise for my lack of knowledge, but im learning i love SAU!!!