Blackkers

Okay awesome; does anyone know where to get a cheap OEM kit and does the water pump come with the OEM kit? thanks

I'm on the north shore of Sydney. Wet test showed little improvement. I'll get the timing belt and water pump swapped over before the new motor goes in. Anyone know a good timing kit and water pump to get?

Okay sweet I'll wait until I get the turbo back from hypergear before I go sourcing a pipe. I think the inlet on the hi flow is different

PMed

okay good info thanks guys. Where can I get a solid intake pipe for airbox --> turbo inlet? The smallest actuator available is 15psi. Can I run that on the stock ecu? I have a feeling people will say something along the lines of 'no you can't you'll blow the motor' I'm going to call the dude tomorrow to talk about a few more things but I'm interested to hear other people's experiences. I'm also going to contact toshi I've heard great things about him Thanks again for the input

Okay thanks for that I will buy the new feed line. I remember trying to fit the original lines to the new turbo when swapping with a stocker; it was hell. I kept dropping the f**king washer off of the banjo bolts from the water feed haha I'm sure I'm not the only one who experienced that. Next Question (thanks for being so helpful): I have a stock turbo for sale, with a receipt from skyline spares. How much do they normally go for? Also, will someone buy my old block? It ONLY suits a rebuild. But someone might want it to build instead of taking their car off the road for weeks to build theirs. edit: I forgot to mention I already have FMIC, 3 inch turbo back exhaust, Splitfire coilpacks, Excedy HD clutch I will need an ecu + injectors + tune + possibly fuel pump & FPR to make more power. I had the plugs gapped to 0.8 when they were out for the comp test this morning and I'll get my workshop to check how much meat is left on the clutch when they swap it to the new motor. Will I be able to run low boost with the hi-flow turbo on the stock ecu + injectors + FP + FPR? people have said no but not even 8 psi until I save up for a tune?

UPDATE: Compression test showed: 130,130,130,130,75,75 Diagnosis is broken head gasket between cylinders 5&6 causing a leak between cylinders. I bought a new motor with 83,000 kms straight from Japan. Taking delivery on Monday. I didn't want to risk opening up the motor to find broken ring landings as well; clearly this motor has had a hard life and its cheap enough to throw away. ALSO: I sent one of my turbo's off to Hypergear for the $880 High Flow treatment (much cheaper than at precision turbo's). NEXT QUESTION: At hypergear they are trying to sell me braided oil lines for the turbo for $88. Is this even necessary? I'm a bit skeptical. I'm still driving the car just low boost and it drives okay, only problem is the BoV is messy (spits water+oil) and it blows some smoke. New engine + turbo should be in by 10-14 days roughly. Let me know what you think about the braided oil lines. Turns out the turbo's were fine all the time but i still want the hiflow

Okay guys tomorrow morning I've booked a compression test. If the motor is fine (which I suspect it is) then I am taking my ORIGINAL turbo to precision turbos out in Wetherill park to get hi-flowed; I was told $1300, has anyone got experience with these guys? does anyone recommend another place for hi-flow with better service or a more competitive price? I'll search the forums now but I'm wondering if any of you have experience with this. Thanks

Coolant is fine, no oil there. Oil is fine, no water there (hasn't been changed for 4000 kms) Is a comp test necessary? low compression can't be the cause of water in the intake When I pulled the first turbo off there was oil sitting in the compressor housing. edit: I think I need a catch can, previous owner said he removed an ugly looking catch can from the pre-previous owner. But what about this damn water??

Is this true? I need to know as I plan to take the turbo off and back to the wrecker today edit: I still Have water + oil in the intake piping and coming out of the BoV. WHERE IS THE DAMN WATER COMING FROM!!!?!?

This is the oil + water in the intake after swapping the turbo. Its definitely worse since swapping

Sorry I forgot to mention that I was told that it was likely that the seals on the turbo were blown causing oil and water to leak into the intake. Is this correct? I drained the coolant when I swapped the turbo so I didn't end up checking (there'd be no point in checking the new fluid). Theres no water in the oil though

Hey guys I noticed quite a bit of oil residue around the (aftermarket) blow off valve. So I opened up the intake piping and found a shitload of oil + water in that murky brown looking shit you get from a blown head gasket. Motor hasn't lost much oil at all infact after driving 1,100 Kms the dipstick is only slightly down from the full mark; I wish I knew how many Kms are on the motor but it seems to be in very good condition. I bought a replacement turbo from Skyline Spares in Wetherill park. Swapped it over, and my problem is still there possibly worse. The shaft on the new turbo had a small amount of play, but made a slight noise when spun and it would just stop rather than spinning for ages. I was told by the guy who served me this is because they use journal bearings not ball bearings and there obviously wasn't any oil in it. Was I sold a dodgey turbo? or did I have a different problem to begin with Thanks

Alright, I've never removed a fuel pump, does the black plastic cap unwind? Also I'm guessing I should disconnect the battery first. I'll get another picture up soon thanks for your patience!

Okay I'll pull it out and get another photo. I'll edit this post. Thanks for your help so far. I also need to pick up a DMM to check whether the fuel pump voltage trick has been done edit: okay This is what was underneath the plate. looks kinda stock to me but I don't know much. The markings make it look like its from a wrecker. Maybe there was an aftermarket one in there at some point in time but not any more?

I'm not really sure what i'm looking at but it doesn't look factory Thanks

Mate thanks for all your help today

I thought when people say Turbo back that included the dump. I'll have to get under the hood and have a proper look, haven't had time yet. What are the preferred value options for aftermarket engine management? My old tuner is Adrian at Toda in Sydney, I should give him a ring

Sorry for the new thread; I've done a lot of searching but didn't find answers to everything. I just bought a series 1 R33 with RB25det and a few mods. 3 inch turbo back big FMIC aftermarket coilpacks (not sure which brand) heavy duty clutch. boost gauge in cabin. Stock turbo, motor, injectors, ECU, fuel pump It maxes out around .6 bar maybe slightly more. Is this just wastegate pressure? I know its an internal wastegate I have no experience with internal gated turbos. Power ramps up quickly between 3-6k RPM, but backs off between 6-7k. Never experienced this with a turbocharged car before. I know I have the mods to support a higher power set up, it feels kinda slow compared to my old Honda Prelude turbo. My question is, how much boost can I run on the stock fuel pump, injectors without pushing ~90% duty cycle? Also, how does the stock fuel mapping go with 12-14psi?