Blackkers

I didn't realise the RB25det ran higher compression. What are the static comp figures for the RB20 vs RB25det? also how much does VCT actually do performance wise? just curious as I upgraded to a nistune but my tuner made me use a Z32 ecu so I could easily keep vct

If you want all your horsepower at 2500RPM grab an LS1. if you can actually drive just launch at 3000. a tune will give you closer to stoich a/f mixtures and better response through more aggressive timing. i'm 100% sure you can run more boost on the stock RB20, depending on your fuel supply that is. come on man you have so many options for your car don't give up. An RB25det swap would be nice but it's a lot of work for 500ccs Also nistune is great. You have an RB20 which means your ecu is 'nistuneable'. not the most complete ecu option but it's the best on a budget. Think Hondata for honda's

The throttle body was 2.75" from memory but is the L pipe was slightly larger, maybe 3"?. My car is at home and I'm going to buy the joiner after work. Otherwise I would measure and save the trouble!

I can't for the life of me figure out what size this silicone joiner is; my stock one is split and can no longer be used. The wrecker asked for $25 for a 2nd hand nissan part. I'm looking for something brand new For the record this isn't my engine bay. any help would be appreciated thanks!

As the title says I'm after a GTR BoV for my RB25DET. I've got a crappy atmo bov that came on the car, time to upgrade. PM, I usually can reply within the hour. I'll give my phone number

Sure thang. What else should I do to the wiring? Its getting 13.8v but are the stock wires big enough?

Does the wiring have to be modified to run these 460 L/h E85 pumps? I'm running a direct ground anyway

Thanks for your help mate sounds awesome. I'm running nistune. 1200 is way beyond my powergoal. However those injectors are pretty sweet value. I'll take a look at the 850s or similar sizing thanks. Do you know off the top of your head what fuel pump people are running for this kind of power goal with E85? I have a Walbro GSS342 (the super common 500HP model) which is brand new however I doubt it could keep up with the e85 flow level

I had a browse through the thread but I can't find anyone running my turbo on e85 I'm running the 21U R33 highflowed on a standard RB25det. Just curious how this setup goes on E85? I know what it's capable of on 98 but I'm going to have to upgrade my fuel system anyway. If anyone could suggest a set of injectors that would suit this that would be awesome!

Who in sydney is famous for tuning on E85? I'd like to hear some feedback from the people. How does Nistune go for E85? I have to upgrade my fuel system before I get tuned regardless which fuel I run so E85 is looking good. Also the United at Dee Why sells it and I have an empty 200L drum in the garage

I would like to know as well. You wouldn't believe it today I upped my boost to about 12psi on a hypergear turbo +walbro intank +factory ecu +factory AFM (z32+nistune +z32AFM going in on friday) and guess what? Boost drop to almost 0 around 6k RPM, boosting strongly before that. never had this problem before as I never ran this amount of boost Obviously some kind of metal intake pipe would be the best option however I don't have enough time to get one fabricated before a tune. My questions is: (sorry to hijack the thread) How do the Silicone intake pipes from JustJap go? I'm shooting for around 20psi 230-240rwkw as a final goal but this week I just want a solid tune on 15psi looking at picking this up tomorrow http://justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=17340&cat=406&page=1

Hey mate I have a VERY similar set up to you. infact we are the same down to the boost controller. I'm curios how much power you made on 14psi and which hypergear turbo are you running? Making me think I should get a solid intake pipe before i get tuned on friday

Hey guys sorry to resurrect the thread; didn't want to start a new one and couldn't find answers to everything. I have been given a notice to go be tested. I know for a fact that I won't pass noise as is. I have a few questions: -Will they defect my atmo BoV? i know they will if they find it but do they look for that? -Should I weld in my silencer? I have a feeling it still won't be quiet enough. -Are there any mufflers out there that maintain decent performance while keeping under the legal limit of noise? -How do they test for noise? how far back from the car is the soundmeter and is the test done outdoors? Just curious because I happen to have a soundmeter and would like to test on my own for a general idea I read on the EPA website that there are fines (up to $400) for selling a car that doesn't meet the standards, I was sold this car with a shitty atmo BoV and this crappy loud-as-f**k muffler. I bought the car about 8 weeks ago and haven't done a blue-slip yet (interstate purchase). Does the previous owner have any responsibility here? If anyone could shed some light here it would be much appreciated. Thanks

Hey guys engine sold, still have the mounts and the turbo, also now a stock AFM Thanks

Still got the ebc? I'm in sydney will pick up asap

Do you still have the HDI boost controller? last update said pending payment. pm me please. Thank you

It sounds like your actuator. When you removed the Boost Tee completely it ran at 9psi. It should be running wastegate pressure which is about 5psi for the RB25det actuators without the Tee or solenoid Unless its a RB20det actuator which is about 9psi from the factory and is a common swap in the RB25det models. Have you ever run it without the Tee? Before you had problems that is. Never a problem running without a controller at all, personally I'd rather purchase a new actuator over trusting a manual boost controller

Evening fellas. Not the most important topic but still should be noted This afternoon I installed a new Walbro Fuel pump. The ever-so popular, cheap and cheerful GSS341/342 model. Anyway, to my surprise the pump I removed from the car looked aftermarket (I was expecting a stocker) and eerily familiar so I compared it to the one I was about to install. It is a pretty obvious fake when you compare them side-by-side. but I probably wouldn't have noticed it on its own. Also the inside of the pumps looked very different. (fake is on the left both times) I guess my point is look out for fakes. The genuine one had Walbro 'made in usa' stamped once in the aluminium and came with a sleeve of about 6-7mm of thick rubber. The fake one used a very small sleeve (visible on the table in the first photo) and had no writing anywhere on the assembly and felt very light and flimsy. The filter 'sock' on the fake one looked pretty useless and I could only ever really use 3/4 to 7/8 of the tank before having to refuel. The new sock on the genuine one reaches almost an inch deeper. I'm yet to test though. The fake one looked a lot like this: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/GSS341-Type-340L-H-Performance-Fuel-Pump-Skyline-GTR-RB20-RB25-RB26-R32-R33-R34-/110983052442?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19d71afc9a&_uhb=1 Does anyone have experience with a knock-off pump going bad on them?

If I can get tuned this month Ill be down for a run late august with a couple rev head mates

Just bumping to say I don't intend to pull the engine apart. Had a couple people ask for bits off it. You're welcome to do that yourself if you buy it! price drop to $300 for the engine and $200 for the turbo Thanks

Hey guys I have a few things for sale. -First up is a R33 GTST series 1 turbo. I bought this from Skyline spares about 6 weeks ago (have invoice) for $300. I thought my turbo was causing me to leak oil into the intake, turns out I had done the head gasket on my engine. Asking $250 slightly negotiable but don't break my balls on this one. So I ended up replacing the RB25DET because a mate hooked me up with an awesome spare. Anyway the engine with the dud gasket is for sale, still runs well, I had no idea about the gasket until I booked a compression test. Comp numbers were: 130,130,130,130,80,80. The mechanic told me the break in the gasket is between cylinders 5&6 which is why no water & oil mixed together on the radiator cap or oil cap. The engine had a recent timing belt and only has 100,500 Km's on it when it was removed (I can prove it too) If you can change the head gasket yourself on your garage floor then you will have a cheap motor with a good bore, head and low Km's. Asking $400 Engine mounts (non-hicas). I bought a set of these when the new engine went in, but they sent me the wrong ones. These will fit a non-hicas R33 GTST as well as some other cars I don't know off the top of my head. Pictures will go up this afternoon. Any questions PM and I can give you my phone number, or just ask here. Thanks -Tim

I'd be keen to pick one up if you're in Sydney. Otherwise how much for express to Sydney? Thanks

DISCLAIMER: I may be wrong (If I am please someone correct me, I love learning about this shit) Your wet test results showed a bigger improvement on a normal cylinder (weird right?). This suggests that your cylinder bore in #6 is likely okay; it points towards head gasket problems or something in the head. I'm no guru but I'd be checking for symptoms of head gasket problems first as they stick out like a sore thumb. edit: also I just wanted to mention that those comp. numbers sound a bit high. Anyone else think the same?

If hypergear says do something; It's a good idea to do it