Blackkers

johnny you ever going to go e85 on that setup?

I think you connect both ports on the WG to the solenoid there should be a diagram that comes with it?

no real point of running e85 unless you want to boost the shit out of it. You won't get as much out of it at 15psi. the VG30 turbo won't hold up to that for long so I'd suggest a HG highflow and a retune on 98 for now, save the injectors for later then switch to e85

What fuel is that?

seeing as you have a nistune ECU already. Why not go for a highflow turbo ~$850, Walbro 255 fuel pump ~$100 and an AFM upgrade. Do people put the Z32 afm into R34's? anyway then you will be able to make 240-250rwkw on the factory injectors around 15psi which is nice and safe for the neo motor. why go for a 25hp increase when you can have 70hp? logical increments edit: next step would be injectors and switch to E85, boost up and make 330ish rwkw on a highflowed OP6

if you're going to run that jap spec tune on aussie fuel it might be worth winding the CAS back a degree or 2 until you can get someone to check if it's knocking

Yeah I would like to know this too. I bought a set of non-hicas mounts that I've still got lying around

I think Stao is running 500kw on e85 on his

do those E85 460's really draw 20A? I wouldn't trust the factory connections on the fuel lid with that kind of current. I'd be punching through the lid, feed some 25A wire and hot glue it. Does anyone bother doing that?

I'm not expert but I'd be pulling the plugs to see what they look like after it has been misbehaving. Actually just wait for someone else to chime in sorry mate I can't really help

Did this happen all of a sudden or slowly over time get worse?

Mate I wouldn't drive it in that condition. If there's a fuel supply issue it could be pinging its head off

awesome who did the ex gate for you? Looks really good. I'll keep an eye out for your results mate I hope your excited

haha VB it was, slight gain in response. Slight but definite. Only noticeable in 1st,2nd,3rd. It feels like its spooling much quicker. I guess the spool wouldn't change but more air is entering the motor. anyway I'd call it maybe 400rpm difference in 1st gear AFR's didn't change as far as I can tell and no weird noises. Well other than the sututu which sounds pretty loud with a pod filter and your metal intake pipe. I'll remove the plate and add a new bov to the list of things to do before getting a touch up tune. touch up tune was on the to-do list anyway due to the 255 pump being maxed out and having to increase the injector duty to maintain good AFR's in the top end. The pump can't keep up and fuel rail pressure must be dropping I guess; I trust toshi's judgement but I don't like the idea of 100% duty on the pump, what happens if my alternator shits itself and suddenly the voltage across the pump drops to 11.5 thanks for your input

alright kompact it is. I'm going to go murder a beer can and I'll get back to you

mad okay thanks for the input lads I might have to 'modify' a GTST valve with a socket and a hammer haha. How do you change the spring tension in the TS model scotty? Glad to hear it has lasted so long, makes me feel better about buying one seeing as they are $160ish compared to $15 for a 2nd hand GTST valve

okay wicked but it won't affect my AFRs by much I'd hope. Ill keep an eye out anyway and keep you posted. If I'm up for a new BOV I would prefer to spend the money on a brand newy. Are those Turbosmart Kompact plumbback valves any good? I'll find a link: here http://www.turbosmart.com.au/product/kompact-plumb-back-nissan apparently these bolt straight up.

Hey guys, I've got a bit of an issue with my set up: r33 rb25det, hypergear 21U highflow, 20Psi E85. Made 306kw on the dyno with wheelspin. I run a single GTR blow off valve recirculating anyway Toshi said during tuning that it feels like there is a small boost leak and it does feel a bit laggy in lower gears. I pressure tested the system and it holds very well, I used soapy water and the only leaks i found were above 10psi and that was from the oil catch can. I pressurised from the intake pipe to the crossover pipe so both sides of the BOV were pressurised. I'm wondering if when I'm coming on boost maybe the bov is leaking into the recirc pipe? Has anyone had issues with this before? my GTR valve is in pretty average condition visually. I want to make a plate to block it off and hopefully that will improve response. This shouldn't affect the tune right? seeing as it recirculates after the AFM (I have a wideband I will be checking anyway). I don't plan to run this set up as I don't like the idea of hectic flutterz and stalling etc. I'll replace the valve if I have to but I won't get ahead of myself just yet. Also, I've read about people using beer cans to make a block off plate. This sounds easy but I'm not sure how well a thin piece of aluminium will hold up against 20psi and I certainly don't want that finding it's way into the engine. What do you guys think? sorry about the essay, thanks in advance -Tim

I'd be checking for air leaks or the afm wiring seeing as you have fuel and spark. Even if your fuel pump was stuffed but still providing some pressure you will get it to start, maybe not idle after that though. Anyway, check all intake joiners Id reckon

I was going to say factory intake pipe, but since you said it happens when building boost that wouldn't make sense.. Shame that you swapped out good coils and plugs to find the same problem. All you changed was the GB? That shouldn't have an effect at all

Pretty much exactly what he said; Test for boost leaks. Test preload on the actuator, maybe even tighten it up 1-2mm. This may be a dumb question but since you didn't mention I have to ask, have you had it properly tuned since installing the new turbo? Also what is your fuel set up? 1bar isn't a lot, I'd go for a few more psi if your fuel system is up to it

Listen to Scotty. You need that tuned unless you enjoy rebuilding engines

If it was just the rings, you could potentially rebuild it quite cheaply. Just a hone and new rings if the pistons haven't been smashed. I'd be checking the ring lands then just throw it back together

I have a feeling it's the injector. Are you sure they're brand new? I bought the fiveo 1000cc injectors and they are 2nd hand high flows and one even had surface rust. I wouldn't recommend the high flows really. It can be difficult to cold start my engine now.

I've seen someone run map and the afm just as a dummy in case someone who knows a thing or 2 has a poke around your engine bay