Blackkers

Good to see full boost all in around 3750 on the dyno. Can't be sure how that translates to street response but it looks promising. I've been in poorly setup GT30 RB's that are laggier (and much slower!) I remember hearing that with the .82 housing boost will generally be all in around the 4750 mark on an R33 RB25det. Actually I think that was mentioned earlier in this thread. Considering this turbo as a cheapish option for a near future dirty 30 build; Hypergear makes something pretty similar that would suit me. But I definitely want the neo 25 head. VCT 3L drop in top feeds higher lift/lower duration stock cams. Pair all that with a ~GT35 and you get a decent daily and power approaching 400rwkw on e85? yes please

sounds like a winner of a combo really

wtf is that

What fuel? and what dyno? cheers

Have you bought them already? They should do the job. If you have the 1000ccs there's no need to worry. If you haven't then have a look at the stainless internal options

if it's a fresh build perhaps cam timing is out? how big are the type b's? I thought they were pretty streetable AFAIK. Also, not that it would matter in idle but you can't tell if the Bov's are leaking without pressure testing

it will work out cheaper than rebuilding the 25 anyway. a 30 block is only worth it's weight in scrap these days

How much does the timing on the intake cam actually change by? It's not like there's an extra cam lobe like in a honda or anything

unanimous on that one mate

I'm making not much more than 300rwkw and my max injector duty is 84% on 1000cc sidefeeds. plenty of boost and an average fuel pump does that..

Stao how much do you charge for that rb20det highflow? Looks like a good option for bolt on upgrades

I have to agree with GTSboy. as much as it sucks to give up your car, you're mostly better off changing to a factory turbo model

have you talked to a turbo shop? They might be able to help you. I can't say for sure but I know some turbos can spin well over 150,000RPM so 36kRPM isn't much by comparison

I dunked this magnet into the oil. no shavings but there are a few chunks of metal in there

it took around 3.5-4L i think. Yeah okay I'll pull the sump off once the engine is out to do some damage assessment

ill do that this arvo. Would any shavings have been picked up by the filter yet? I'll check out the drain plug as well seing as it's magnetic

Hey guys I think I'm up for a new engine. Here's why: I installed an oil temp gauge as I was looking to do some laps at wakefield soon and before going through the hassle of installing an oil cooler I wanted to see if it was 100% necessary. Anyway I already had the sandwich plate so I installed it with a fresh oil filter and topped up the oil about 10 days ago. I didn't check for leaks (like a dumbass) because i've used this plate twice before on multiple cars and never lost a drop, didn't even cross my mind. I drove about 250kms in the past 10 days so not heaps but yesterday arvo I started it up and it's rumbling and shaking all over the place so I shut it down. checked the oil, sure enough it took almost a full bottle of oil before reaching the full indicator. I reached under the oil filter and there was oil on the bottom side of it. I didn't have time to go over it properly. I drove it to the station this morning and the issue didn't go away or get worse in the 10-15 minutes but I kept revs well below 3k. I know I know it shouldn't have been driven but if it's truely f**ked I'd rather swap out a healthy motor than pull mine apart and rebuild. What do you guys reckon? If it was a spun bearing would it even start? If anyone is in the area I would really appreciate if you could drop in and check it out, 2nd/3rd opinions are always a good idea. I live in the north shore area of Sydney. Cheers edit: Also just wanted to mention that in that period I never hammered it, barely boosted at all since installing the gauge not that it really matters also forgot to mention my setup. Hypergear 21U highflow on E85 300ish rwkw (was wheelspinning on the dyno due to semi slick tyres). standard RB25det R33 motor. Z32 nistune/afm 1000cc sidefeed shithouse FIVEO injectors

unfortunately it's often more cost effective to sell a stockish car and buy something quicker. Rather than spend money that you'll never see again. Having said that if you love the car then by all means go for it

why?

make sure you film it if you do

that depends. How much power and what boost level are you running? The factory spec motor is VERY strong. There's a guy on here making 680 HP at the wheels on a factory RB25neo bottom end. Personally I wouldn't drop the cash on a rebuild until it's necessary

why don't you measure it? or did you not think of that

Lots of people daily e85

The neo head has a smaller combustion chamber right? What's the ETA on completion? Sounds like a killer project. Also where did you get the rb30e and how much did you pay for it? Most of them have a zillion kms on them

General rule of thumb: don't aim for a certain power level. There's enough variation in dynos that you can never be sure anyway. Do a couple supporting modifications to liven it up, and pay for a decent tune then just drive it. If that's not quick enough for you then keep spending money but beware, it gets expensive. don't forget to take it down the 1/4 and post your MPH. it gives a better idea of power