Blackkers

Good idea, got plans for aftermarket engine management? I don't know how well aftermarket turbos go on the factory system

with the factory RB30e pistons you need a combustion chamber of around 53ccs to get a CR of around 9.0:1 with a factory size head gasket. I'm not sure how correct that statement is but I think that's what the RB30 boys seem to agree on in order to reduce the combustion chamber by 10cc's you need to remove exactly 1.72mm from the head. (assuming the combustion chamber is perfectly cylindrical for that 1.7mm) Not sure if that's do-able but you're welcome to try

Looks awesome. if you don't mind me asking how much did he charge you specifically for the head skim job? no idea how much this is worth

looks good mate did you weld that yourself? also have you had the head skimmed?

sweet. When you get around to doing the external vct feed could you throw up some pictures? I'm going through essentially the same build except that my RB30 is still assembled on the floor of the garage haha

The torque settings are slightly different when using ARP studs. so forget the nissan handbook which says 104ish I think. clean all threads, lube all threads. with the studs just spin them in with your fingers. if you feel any resistance before the stud is properly seated then remove it and clean it up I found the handbook image with the nissan specs on it, ignore them but use the same pattern edit: what ben said

I agree with the KU36's going off after a while. I had them on the dyno which is known to kill soft tyres, afterwards it was like I was iceskating for 4-5 days. Even locking rears into corners etc. They came back to life eventually. But with average cold performance, poor wet performance and extremely good warm performance they are too far gone for a street car and I would only recommend them as a 2nd set and NOT for daily. Also if you're on the factory suspension don't dare go for tyres that sticky IMO. even on the track Plus trying to skid on the 36's is ridiculous. you need decent power to do so and it just LAUNCHES you. I've skidded on crap tyres like everyone else but if you initiate a power slide on 36's you end up going too fast. too grippy, also much more difficult to save a slide in the dry. Mind you my car isn't set up to skid and if yours was, you wouldn't consider these tyres anyway. in conclusion lol, don't bother dailying them

After I fitted and tightened the f**k out of the rear strut brace the inside rear wheel lifts off the ground driving into a mates driveway. Having never done that before it makes me think there must be a difference. It is a standard R33 GTR rear brace and I think its the same as the gts-25t S2 factory brace

you missread what 89CAL wrote. the AFM measures air which is then vented. The ECU doesn't know its been vented and adds fuel. this causes the problems we were talking about. it can be tuned for but it won't be perfect. Also many aftermarket ecu's calculate airflow rather than measuring it which eliminates this problem altogether

stagea97 I don't think you understand the issue properly...

You should really have it plumbed in. It is possible to go without however you can get issues with stalling, backfiring and fouled spark plugs. Not to mention shithouse fuel economy. Show us a picture?

Got your AFM hooked up and grounded properly? hard to say without seeing the car really

Awesome mate. That will be good to see. What sort of lines and fittings are you using and what size's?

okay sweet, the tighter the better

good to know. I assume you just tap the external feed into the gallery above where you blocked it off under the head? are you running VCT on yours ben?

That's the idea. I'm aware my turbo is too small to be efficient in the top end but I'll be happy with a midrange monster at the moment. I figure I want the engine done properly and get the car running and tuned nicely before I go thinking of turbo upgrades. I could swap out the turbo now but I'd rather do it properly with a highmount manifold from ETM or 6boost with an external gate + a turbo like the FP3582 or something from the hypergear SS range; haven't decided yet. One thing at a time. And who knows, this new highflow profile flows really well in the top end on my 25 so I think it will surpass expectations. If I end up with the same top end power figure as I've got now at lower RPM with a high~ish comp 3L + VCT then I have nothing to complain about! In 4th gear currently it builds 20psi by 3400rpm on a flat road with minor boost leaks. Can't imagine what it would be like with the planned setup

Thanks guys. Yeah I'm thinking the 21U is a bit small. It is pushing around 300rwkw on 20psi on the 25det with the stock manifold and IWG; it seems to nose over the top of the power curve towards 7000-7100ish. I'm happy for now not revving that hard. I'll have to inspect the block once I've pulled it apart before I make any final decisions. Thanks for the help guys

Did you use the R33 head? Also did you get the head or deck skimmed? or just clean it up and slap it together? how much power are you making and do you think I should buy ARP headstuds? Did you change all the bottom end bolts including rod bolts and I forget the name of the other but the bolts that hold the big end bearing caps down too? thanks

The turbo is on my 25 at the moment. I think its a good option for response and if it means I won't have to spin the absolute shit out of the unbalanced 30 bottom end then that's a bonus too. If I was changing turbo I'd look at something a fair bit bigger, maybe towards SS3-4 territory seeing as 3L +VCT will help with off boost driveability. anyway as far as the bores go, If they are mushroomed does that mean I need to have the block bored to 86.5? If that's the case I might as well throw the block away and look for another with decent bores. Hmm making me think that I should probably look for a lower KMs RB30 to start with..

Hey guys I'm starting a twin cam RB30 build; picking up a S2 block this weekend with 240,000kms on it. I'm not sure if it's ever been opened or if the motor was swapped at any time, but 240 was on the tacho of the VL it came out of. I plan to fit the RB25det neo head with an MLS gasket. Seeing as I'm going to be running full time e85, what CR do you think I should aim for? I believe somewhere between 9.0-9.5:1 would be ideal. I don't plan to exceed 20psi on a hypergear 21u highflow IWG. I also plan to use the stock pistons and rods. But I plan on fitting fresh piston rings and giving the bore a quick hone. I also want to check bearings for abnormal wear but I'm not sure whether to just swap them all out and call it a day. Oil pump will be coming from a twin cam motor. Are the DE oil pumps the same as the DET models? And is it worth fitting a crank collar for 95% street use? None of this is set in stone so if you think I should hunt around for a lower KM's engine and leave it untouched please weigh in! Any input or suggestions would be welcomed. I'll be posting photos etc as the build progesses and I'm really looking forward to getting started. thanks guys

When you say a big fuel system do you have a surge tank? Also do you have a wideband? That would tell you pretty quickly if you've got a fuel supply issue. I'd be worried at the top of 3rd gear if it's starving for fuel.

What do you mean by compressor surge? is it a weird noise or something?

Xspurt is australian owned right? Where are they manufactured I wonder

Is that the hybrid low mount manifold? Where'd you pick that up?

I agree with nizmo_man. You can have a decent flowing exhaust that isn't over the top loud by using proper mufflers. This idea that unless it's a 3.5" straight through with a decat means it won't flow for shit is complete bullshit. You can have a 3inch exhaust from the dump to tailpipe with decent mid and rear mufflers (no cannons) and still perform well while being quiet. I guess what you percieve to be quiet is down to personal preference. Also the stock catback is the cheapest option if that suits you; just wanted to throw in the idea that you can have a decent performing system without it being obnoxiously loud. Having said that it would be pretty hard to pass the EPA noise test with anything bigger than the stock system I imagine, hopefully someone can weigh in here