Blackkers

doesn't sound good mate. I would continue to drive it though, you never know

I'm another one who drools over the idea of a factory RB30e bottom end put together with a 25 neo head. A bit of a freshen up and throw the original pistons back in with a new set of rings. If the bearings look okay then re-use them too! Probably use a twin cam oil pump and bump up oil pressure slightly by shimming the relief valve if bearings have decent mileage. 3L, VCT, E85. SS1.5/SS2 ~ish sized turbo externally gated on E85. Boost the shit out of it. mid 300's KW with full boost around 3250RPM in 5th? yes please. Not sure if a set of mild duration-moderate lift cams would do much at this point; might make better use of the 30 bottom end

how well does the VNT setup work?

don't upgrade the injectors for that power level on 98

E85 won't give you better response; as in, it won't affect the turbo lag. You can tune to have it feel more 'gutsy' off boost if you like, just ask the tuner. Your fuel consumption will suffer though. If you want the same top end power and better response you can use a smaller turbo increase boost. 18psi is pretty low for a built motor OR you could go for a smaller turbo, more boost + E85 for even better response and top end. Whatever I guess it comes down to how much time and money you want to put into it

what ecu you running johnny?

R33 highflow, around 22psi. R34 highflow around 24psi. That's well out of the efficiency range of the turbo though. E85 will mask some of those symptoms though and let you run decent timing

Okay thanks for the input guys. How about a R32 with everything minus the motor?

Hey guys, I wasn't sure where to post this. I'm curious how much you guys think a R33 GTR would be worth with a blown motor/no motor. Some time this year I want to start a 32/33 GTR project but I don't know how much a rolling shell or just a motorless car is worth. I've seen people ask upwards of $10k for a pretty average example. On the 2nd hand car market some 33GTRs in stockish form sell registered around the $15-16k mark. my question is: How much would you pay for a decent example GTR with a blown motor?

If you've got the diff out of the car you may as well throw a shim in it. 0.8mm should be fine because NA

you poor bastard. this would be my worst nightmare on a build you've spent $$$ on

there are options that will do that with response 100x better than the ancient 3582 that you don't even know the history of

Also about boost leaks. If a leak only occurs at 5psi or so it won't be evident until then. so just because it produces boost at 2.2k doesn't mean it's not leaking

you're essentially using an aftermarket turbo. it will flow more air for the same boost level seeing as it is 'bigger'. to get the car able to drive well you need aftermarket tuning. now you can probably get away with most of the factory bits already on your car but for peace of mind I'd install a fuel pump, Walbro GSS341 ($100) and go for a nistune ECU and tune (roughly $1,200 all up). This will allow you to boost up to around 15 or so psi on the RB25 turbo and the car will run nicely. The cheaper option is to install another RB20 turbo and go back to where you started.

yeah there are definitely better options out there but it depends on how much you want to spend and what your goals are I guess.

Kiwi that looks like an awesome response machine for a GT35. just curious how much top end do you make with the .63?

Zebra what motor is that?

What gearbox is in there? just curious. I wouldn't expect the original gts4 box to be up for that kind of torque

that's good then. pressure test to be sure but I hope you didn't waste 3 gaskets unnecessarily

That would have to be a serious problem to have re-written the EEPROM with a factory tune.. doesn't make any sense. Check under the bonnet? plenty of things can cause it to run like shit btw RAM - volatile = loses data when power lost (requires a battery backup) ROM - non volatile = no battery required. That's why an old factory ECU will plug in and run after sitting on a shelf for 2 decades

Could be a heat issue if its in stand still traffic or after giving it a squirt. How are your water temps? Never heard of this issue on a skyline before. Make sure the radiator is full

wtf

man, Boost controller means you are not running stock boost! so what you have to do now is: lower the boost and preferably find a better way of measuring it seeing as you didn't know what it was before. then if the problem persists come back to us Good luck

Looks good on paper, but I've never seen it work well. I might be wrong on this but I think the actuation units tend to get stuck as well. I know a guy whos varex got stuck closed and it was a nightmare