Blackkers

compression test will give you a good idea

16 psi on a rb20 is very different to 16psi on an RB25 remember. you can boost it slightly harder as the shaft speed is lower

any of those pumps you mentioned will do what you need on petrol. The walbro is probably the cheapest. It's well known and reliable too

Call hypergear tomorrow and ask for the most responsive turbo that will make 260rwkw on an RB20. Stao will sort you out since it sounds like you don't really know how to find the information you want. or you can go to somewhere like CRD and hand over your credit card. If there wasn't a market for a service like that then these businesses wouldn't exist. if E85 is an option for you then you can make more power on a responsive turbo which is nice. If I were you I'd put an R34 Rb25det in with a hiflow on e85 and make a more responsive 340ish rwkw than your RB20 set up could ever be

I just want to add that if you do end up wanting a set of -5's, -10's or HKS 2530's make sure you drive a car with this set up or at least go for a ride along. these turbo's are super common I'm sure you'll find someone willing. 2530's and -10's are old tech nowadays, too laggy for a standard 26 street car imo. The -9's are really the best option but most pricey. I think they are GT2859 -9 rather than 2860. but this isn't really my area of expertise I'll let someone else weigh in

You could insulate the intake piping to see if that makes a difference. In theory it should but on full boost/decent RPM the air in your intake moves so f**king quickly that it doesn't have time to sit around absorbing heat

Yes it's getting easier for these v8 guys. I also know someone with a vf who is making over 330rwkw. I know they're heavy but that is not a slow car

you poor bastard. I'm never recommending them to anyone

In Canada more timing means less knocking

base pressure sounds factory. 3Bar or 43.5psi. well, you don't really need one, and 1000cc injectors are more than big enough to compensate if the pressure drops slightly and at 16psi it probably wont. Any tuner will be able to do this. Personally I wouldn't install the 2nd pump but it sounds like you're going to do it anyway keep in mind you need to supply around 16-20A of current at 60psi fuel pressure with 2 of those pumps

how much power are you making and at what boost and base fuel pressure? i'm maxing out mine but big injectors help as fuel pressure drops in the top end. making around 300rwkw on 20psi but I can't be sure as the car was wheelspinning like crazy on the dyno

hmm, that IS tempting but I think I would prefer a proper setup.. wait, wait... nah racecar status much more important

Why would you want to block the PCV valve? It's shut on boost anyway. Also what's wrong with running a proper catch can setup at the track? Just because you don't have to doesn't mean you shouldn't. I'm sure there are legit reasons to do it that way I'm just curious as to what they are

fuel consumption shouldn't change on cruise if you've got closed loop correction enabled

I had a brand new AEM UEGO that was reading about .6-.8 more rich than at the tailpipe after comparing 2 other widebands. The only difference is that the permanent sensor is installed pre-cat obviously. Not sure if that's normal

Do you just pop the sensor inline in the return line then call it a day?

Having a gauge is a personal preference thing. Personally I look at it after doing any work in the engine bay but if you're hammering it around the track you won't so much as glance at it edit: I'd have to agree with the MTX-L. I couldn't get the serial output working on my AEM EUGO but with a mates MTX-L it never had an issue. (same PC)

I'm sure you could find it online easily enough. I want one of these kits too. another thing on the wishlist

How much air pressure did you use? Also what size of the tyre and what is your suspension set up?

I've got a spare RB20 actuator which will bolt right on and give you 9-10 psi. Not sure how much theyre worth but it's not doing much in my ever growing pile of spares

You might have paid $250 for the turbo but if you install and tune it you might be up for a new motor soon....

Poor OP hope you didn't pay much for it

Thanks for that I'll have a play around and post results for science

man thanks for the help. Just wondering how did you learn all this on your own? can't you just 'upload' to test new maps before burning when happy? Or do you have to burn seeing as its a start up issue? edit: sorry disco didn't mean to go off topic

Should I add some post crank fuel? is that somewhere in nistune? I have a friend with a license but neither of us are experts by any measure