Blackkers

that $1200 budget will get you a set of 2nd hand -7's pretty easily. Swap them out yourself and - I can't believe i'm saying this - run the car on your current tune while you save for a re-tune. A fuel pump would also be a good idea

yeah its just easier to use a recirc system for most people

Gaz all of the AFM guys run plumbbacks to avoid OP's problem. If it's not a recirc blow off valve then replace the factory one. You can sell the turbosmart one for sure if you're worried about the $200

I've got one on an RB25det as a street car. With boost leaks it will make 20psi by about 3300RPM uphill in 4th. you never have to change down gear above 50km/h in 4th. but it doesn't respond as well as the stock turbo. The factory turbo makes the car feel like a small block chevy compared to the highflow. But it has major drawbacks. If rebuilt to standard specs with a better bearing cartridge and steel wheels I'm sure you won't lose much response and on e85 you could push probably up towards 16-18psi. Remember ceramic/nylon wheels are lighter (I assume) which helps transient response

haha good for a nice street driven R33!

I was never going to assemble without a hone But I am tempted to give the block to a shop to do the hone and surface the deck then clean the block I don't know which size headgasket I can use yet. Once the pistons are in I can measure the deck height and calculate the squish which will let me pick a head gasket. OR seeing as I'm using all the factory rotating assembly with the stock deck height does anyone know the factory deck height? that would at least get me close enough to buy a gasket now The cross hatch is still there from the factory. Which doesn't guarantee that it's a low KM block but it at least tells me it wasn't a super high KM block. Car has 90,000 on the dash

KKR1000? isn't that a 1000hp turbo?

yeah well the original cross hatch is very visible. there's barely a glaze at all. I'm very reluctant to take the block away, tempted to assemble it as is. how bad can the surface be? It's a low KM engine that had the typical R32 oil pump failure. before anyone flames me for this. I had a sport accident 4 weeks ago and fractured 3 vertebrae in my neck along with soft tissue damage. 3-4 months off work isn't cheap. Whereabouts in sydney would I be able to get it done without being ripped off? can anyone share their experiences with a slight bump in compression for a standard internal RB26?

I'm definitely tempted to do that. I'm going to clean it up and get someone more experienced to look at it

Hey guys. I've got an RB26 in pieces in the garage. I'm doing a standard rebuild reusing the pistons/rods but replacing main and big end bearings. New MLS head gasket, ARP head studs. New genuine piston rings too. I'm about to Hone the block and clean up the deck ready for the new gasket. The Head is getting re-conditioned and the machine shop is going to take up to 1mm out of the head for me. My question is about honing the bores. Which type of hone tools is better? A brush type like this: or the stone plate style: Either way I will be borrowing the tool. Also, I've been told not to use a razorblade to clean up where the old gasket was on the deck. Incase of scratching. Is this really an issue on a cast iron block like the RB26? Someone told me to use some oil or other lubricant along with the blade to protect the surface. Someone else told me to use a stone of some description. What is the consensus here? For those who have shaved some thickness out of the head in order to bump compression could you share your experiences? How did it change the way it drives? Is it noticeable? My other concern is how will I go getting cam timing spot on. I'm thinking some adj. gears might be on the shopping list anyway seeing as I'm keeping factory cams. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks fellas

A friend of mine has a V6 bora and I did a few things like CV shafts and an oil change for him. with an aftermarket clutch it launched pretty hard I must admit. The 60 foot would be better than my 300rwkw R33

That ebay kit you gave the link to has a manifold for a straight 6 engine but the bora has a V6? That makes plumbing more difficult/expensive

cheapest and easiest? 2nd hand nistune hands down

yeah with the nistune you can tell if you want to install that and throw a base map on it. You have to hook it up with a consult cable

400kw+ isn't unheard of on the stock RB26 with E85. You're not exactly on the bleeding edge either; odds are it would last reliably for years at that power level. Especially with ARP studs you can wind some serious boost in. I'm no chemist or engineer but from what I'm told E85 burns in a way that is less harsh on the internals. So if you're worried about having stock pistons and rods E85 might give you a bit of a safety net there! Also if for some reason something goes wrong and you are given a lean condition under load (eg your FPR hose pops off or wastegate line splits), your tune is much further from detonation than a tune on 98 would be. just something to think about. Good luck with it

You need a driver?

if you install an EBC and wind up the GAIN setting to something like ~40ish you will get some response out of it. E85 makes it safer for extra boost but also adds torque. I read something once about ethanol burning more slowly in the chamber which produces less of a 'shocking' force on the piston/rod than 98. which makes the stock cast pistons more reliable I guess. also lower EGT's for the same power level yada yada yada bit more boost, E85 and an EBC dialed in correctly will see some awesome midrange/ response improvement

What turbo is that?

You'd have to be burning an absolute shitload of oil for it to be a problem. In that case you've got other issues to look forward to. Yes oil collects blowby gasses but it is a very small portion of the oil itself and even less would make it back into the cylinder. The thing is that the ECU doesn't even reference the O2 sensor at idle or at decent throttle. The ECU completely ignores what the O2 sensor says unless you're cruising at light throttle off boost. Soon as You've got some boost it goes back to open-loop meaning no correction based on the O2 sensor. How did you decide that your AFR's are in the 12's again? Do you have an aftermarket wideband?

well we can't really help to be honest mate. I know it's not what you wanted to hear but pull 'em out and get them measured is a sure thing

yeah, we've all done it. Don't buy twice. Especially something like an ECU because you'll end up paying for 2 tunes

don't bother there are many other better options that plug straight in. a second hand PFC will do so much more than that for not much more $$

fixing the O2 sensor won't change anything other than cruising AFRs. Oil change? seriously man

you're really in unknown territory there mate. I don't think anyone could give you advice having been in a similar situation. 11.5 CR is stupidly high for a 30+psi goal Internal cylinder pressure is going to be incredible, hope you've got strong internals. Cam wise I'm sure someone could weigh in, you can measure the valve movement and height of the piston so surely clearance can be worked out beforehand

mad compression ratios and heaps of boost will get some use out of the extra octane. But im talking like 2 Bar of boost which is more drag/VL territory these days. 2 bar in a skyline would be mental on the track