Blackkers

I just filled up at Dee Why, NSW can confirm its green. also it was like $1.46/L wtf

So what was broken? There's a one way valve from factory in the brake booster line, I think GTRs are the only other model with a clutch booster

Yep 2nd hand head would be the cheapest way to go

that would be a cool comparison to see. But using a twin scroll turbo and normal highmount manifold sounds kind of backwards, you would lose some top end power VS a true TS system. So you would want this 'quick spool' valve to really work down low

leave the heater hoses until the engine is on the crane, easier to get to. Just make sure you take time and don't tell yourself you can just remember where every bolt goes because that will be a headache and a half when the new motor is going in

Whatever you do don't install a bosch 040 over priced, short life expectancy on e85 and noisey as fark

Sell them on Facebook man you'll get some hits there for sure. NSW skyline parts sales is pretty good

baseline will be tough to beat!

went in the post today mate. Try to preserve the surclip on the wastegate lever but if it breaks when you remove it then just wrap some wire around the groove and twist so the actuator arm can't just fall off

12% I think is the agreed difference between awkw and rwkw for the GTRs. 270/1.12 = 241 awkw which sounds about right if it's missing the boost restrictor? Most R33/4 owners wouldn't bother on a RWD dyno due to having to remove the front shaft. Whereas on the R32 its as simple as pulling a fuse, or flicking a switch if you've got it hooked up that way

I've got an R32 Rb20det factory wastegate actuator (10psi). according to the gauge I had it was actually 0.8Bar which is more like 11.75 psi. Depends slightly on your exhaust and FMIC set up, and where you source boost from for the actuator. anyway it's sitting in a box doing nothing let me know if you want it

Thanks for the more detailed response!

larger volume plenum = lower velocity air for the same given airflow. at low rpm that translates to less torque, at high RPM/boost that translates to more airflow. around the 600rwkw mark I assume you don't care much for low end drivability so go for it. I assume it would help the top end slightly at a slight cost of bottom end torque. Whether or not it's worth the cost is, as always, up to you If I'm wrong someone please weigh in

I among others have given you plenty of advice but you continue to ask the same questions.. also try google.jp once in a while

So let me just get this straight. You've got an R33 RB25de engine (with VCT disabled) in an R32 with an rb20det loom and which Ecu? Best checking to be sure mate. You shouldn't have any issues really other than having to wire up a window switch for VCT. This is majorly important by the way, the car will be 100x nicer to drive with VCT functioning. About Coilpacks I'm not 100% sure someone else can weigh in. Good luck Edit: the difference in s1 and s2 rb25dets is I believe the long nose crank which engages the oil pump fully. Not a deal breaker but if you've got the s1 motor without a crank collar then keep off the limiter

Another thread and you don't seem to listen to advise anyway

Give it to tony, if it's worth anything you can ask for a tune haha

does the d-jetro even work on a GTST?

RB20's also don't have VCT which puts them roughly 800-1000RPM behind the RB25 in terms of building positive pressure. GTRS is a good turbo for a RB20, go for it! run it at around 20psi or more if you can for the best mid range performance. I think you will get full boost before 4000rpm with adjustable cam gears. Poncams probably won't be necessary. GTRS is known for awesome response on a 25; can't be far off for an RB20, hell they use them in twin form on the RB26

sounds like a good engine set up but please don't use the factory 25 turbo... you won't make much power anyway

57mm is 2.25 inch 63 is 2.5inch the pipe is most likely not 60mm to be honest, it's not a standard size. measure again and note if the pipes have a lip on the end of them or not

Must be him this time

This could be one or two of many things. What is your set up? How much boost? What turbo and what Ecu? Spark plug gaps? Coilpacks? If you haven't done it in a while just fit a new set of NGK copper plugs

definitely listen to gts boy. big turbo, big rear housing on said turbo, low boost, aftermarket manifold, external gate 50mm minimum. 3.5" dump pipe minimum with compression around the 12s i wouldnt go smaller than a GT35 size and on 98 fuel I'd be more inclined to use a 1.06 ar turbine housing

shit yeah that's a good point piggaz. some people even buy 2 brand new Z32's along with a PFC-L/nistune. Link G4 is 10 years ahead of those options