Blackkers

When you changed the turbos did you get all the washers correct on the banjo bolts? Could be leaking a bit of water onto the dump and making the white smoke

Well as I'm sure you know white smoke indicates head gasket. Have a look at the radiator cap and oil fill cap. But really you should do a compression test as that will tell you straight away As for the blue smoke, maybe your engine is a bit smokey or it could be the old stock turbos as they could be up to 25 years old now... Should have gone for newer ones like -7s or something

awesome thanks for that, I've got saturday off so ill get at it then. Then it's time to pull the engine finally. I was considering doing the opposite and jack up the rear of the gearbox to reach the bolts down the back of the firewall but theres no way that's easier I picked up an R34 rb25det neo oil pump today. supposedly these are the same as the N1 units, should do the job

I'm going to drop the rear of the transmission as much as possible to see if I can make a gap for a long extension. any other suggestions?

how on earth do I remove these 2 bolts with the engine still in the car?? Am I missing something?

thanks man, i got the RHF shaft out using a big screwdriver...it was missing the surclip on the diff end. i unbolted the passenger side but left it in, my next day off is wednesday ill pull it out then, thanks for the heads up i was about to leave it in

I didn't realise the passenger side drive shaft was a half shaft. That side was easy to undo. Can I leave the half shafts in and just unbolt it? Also is there a trick to removing the drivers side shaft?

Yeah you're exactly right. I do have a 2nd car at the moment too. I would love to get the engine on the stand an do it properly, fresh rings, honed bore and fresh bearings, new oil pump and crank collar, HG. timing belt etc. Sounds good! Changed my mind again haha I'm just going to pull the damn thing out and do it properly. If I went to the effort of changing out the pump and it spins a bearing by the end of my street I wouldn't be happy

I'm definitely going to have a go at changing the pump with the motor still in the car. See how far I get before I'm back asking for help again haha

that's definitely a possibility, someone else mentioned that before I think. I'm pretty sure to get the sump off completely is a motor-out job. Or maybe its possible with a bit of swearing and skinned knuckles. If the bearings are toast the motor has to come out anyway. I don't really want to attempt to pull the crank while upside down! haha what a mess. I just pulled the plugs and put some WD40 then some oil in each cylinder and gave it a crank. It spins up fine, sounds a bit grindy but that could be normal. I'll head off and borrow a comp tester but even if the result is positive it doesn't instantly rule out every problem as you said. Cheers for the input Sorry missed your post, I'll look into it. I don't have a tester so I'll have to ring around. but definitely a full leak down would be more appropriate

I'm currently working on an old R32 GTR with a busted oil pump. It's one of the early models which were notorious for this problem. It starts but never build oil pressure, or so I was told. I haven't attempted to start it myself obviously. I dropped the oil and it seems fine, no bits and pieces in there; I'm also going to cut open the oil filter and I'm expecting a few chunks of debris. What should I see if the oil pump has kicked the bucket? I want to do a compression test to make sure the cylinders themselves are okay before I pull the motor out. I plan to change the oil pump and check the bearings to see if they are f**ked too which is more than likely. So my question is, if the bearings ARE okay (unlikely), would I be doing any damage to them by running a comp test while the oil pump is 100% f**ked? With all the plugs out there isn't much load on the bearings other than on the cylinder being tested. Any input would be appreciated thanks fellas. Also if you have any tricks to help get the motor out you might save me a few headaches! I'm planning to leave the trans in. Leave the power steering and AC pumps in but zip tied out of the way, pull the driveshafts then everything else etc.

is it an R33 highflow? the new ones can make around 270 rwkw around 20-22psi on 98 so your result is very good for around the 17psi mark. Personally I wouldn't push it to 20psi on a stock motor on 98 but it's possible. The old highflows maxed out around 230 I think. on e85 the new highflow makes around 320rwkw around 22psi

is there much difference in overall strength between R32 to R34 Rb26's? I haven't looked much at the GTR motors. VCT is where it's at for a street car

Yep. I'd love to see a HTA3582 on a twin cam RB30. please someone do it with the neo 25 head for high-ish compression, VCT and decent lift cams in stock form. Killer response combo with massive boostability. maybe mid 400's rwkw on E85? can't say for sure

6 or 7's probably won't really matter. If E85, run 6's. If Petrol, run 7's. What coils and how old are they?

Yeah but I like my skid machine

Mate if you're looking for a brand new kit, I wholly recommend this one from Plazmaman. https://plazmaman.com/shop_itemdetail.php?itemid=142&cate=72 for $635 including a full piping kit from turbo to throttle body and includes all silicone and clamps Look no where else at this price mate. I just bought a piping kit and blow off valve. (no intercooler inc) This is a photo of it ~90% installed

I'm going to assume guilt toy meant a tuner that can also fix shit when necessary... which is often

awesome, Even for track work though can't you just fill the tank to the top and not worry about surge? Or am I missing something edit: That's also a good point. I'd contact the injector manufacturer and see what they think about running less than 3Bar base. I wouldn't trust the spray pattern at that pressure without having them tested. Or is that a waste of time?

you're killing it dude, I'm super jealous

hahaha classic yeah I'm spending a bit of mine on the 33 too

awesome progress mate good to see it all fits! The greddy style intake is definitely a good idea. Did you have any trouble getting the motor into the 32? It looks like the bonnet will close without any issues

So the 460 walbro will support around 450rwkw on e85 and won't flow too much for the stock fpr? and it's $200 brand new, sounds like a winner for most applications

1600cc side feeds? Try a set of stockies maybe if you don't feel like spending. Changing them out is a bitch though

I couldn't agree more, small turbo boosted to hell is a much better idea than a big lazy turbo. Every time. 300rwkw is a legitimately fast car and you will have traction issues for sure... But that shouldn't be a deterrent really, the 370z spins 1st and 2nd in stock form, even the auto model does. Gtsts aren't that fast really, my go kart does low 1:02 laps at Wakefield so I don't really want to disappoint myself by taking the 33 there haha