Blackkers

Does the engine really flap around? I would have thought that to be plenty of clearance. maybe take a look at your engine mounts next time your under there. The GTR I recently pulled an engine out of had no symptoms whatsoever of dead mounts. but one was completely sheared in 2 pieces...

I just noticed your breather set up. pick up a length of 5/8's hose and connect the breathers to the PCV and the intake pipe between the turbo and AFM. Also is that an O2 sensor bung in the dump pipe?

unfortunately for you, running aftermarket turbos on the factory ecu can make the engine grenade on boost. I would suggest a comp test at the minimum. Check AFM wiring, and maybe for vac leaks. Although a vac leak usually leads to a high and lean idle. white smoke is usually a bad indication but it could have been condensation in the exhaust if the engine hasn't fully warmed up yet. note; if you do a comp test don't forget a wet test as well to get an idea of the piston ring condition

yeah rings are to blame. You could do a leakdown and find out for sure Burning much oil? not uncommon for factory RB's to do that. Mine burns about 400ml per 1000kms; more when it's given a hard time

Not all power loss can be attributed to friction. Otherwise the heat generated would melt your driveline. I guess that loaded parts must flex and that at high torque levels the lost energy is higher.

I dropped an injector once and it ran on 5 cylinders. Sounded like a wrx too, rough when driving and idling. But on deceleration the engine felt smooth again. So in gear above ~2k rpm with 0% throttle the engine felt smooth. That's how I knew it wasn't an internal engine issue Maybe give that a go if you're worried. I suspect coilpacks or plugs

You can absolutely drive to the tuner using a base map on the haltech. Or even the stock Ecu, just don't hammer it until you know it's safe. Some people use the factory Ecu for -9s at low boost apparently it's not too bad. As for injectors. If you can adjust injector scaling and latency in the haltech you will likely get it driveable. I say go for it. Do as much work as you can at home to save some $$. Good luck

interesting. the Walbro pump should be able to handle more than that for sure. As well as the injectors. How much boost was used before the injectors maxed out? perhaps the fuel pump isn't genuine? Do you have a direct feed for the pump? I believe those ones can draw close to 20A at high boost. That's more than I'd be comfortable putting through the factory fuel lid connections. Maybe drill a hole in the lid and poke some high current wires through then seal it up

buying a 2nd hand turbo is always a bit sketchy as it is super easy to clean any oil out of the comp housing to mask seal issues. Buying one 2nd hand without seeing it in person is even more sketchy. I'd suggest the hypergear line. Message Tao and tell him what power range you're looking for and he will tell you which turbo will do it with the best response. Easy; and as Johnny said it will have a warranty. I'd be willing to bet it's not that much more expensive either

bummer

check the wastegate actuator with a compressor maybe. is the IC piping installed properly? also what happens when you rev the shit out of it? still no boost?

Cool, This would be awesome in a dirty 26/30 where you don't touch the bottom end and don't want to overspin it but still want massive midrange power and street driveability edit: OP you will love your car again like the day you bought it if you boost up on -9's with a real ecu. do it!

Listen to piggaz about the cams. Many people make the mistake of using too high duration which ruins response. Adjustable gears are a good idea though. If you only want 500-550 at the flywheel then forget the GTX and grab some -7 or -9s. 7s respond better and are generally cheaper than 9s but they don't have as much to offer in the top end. Good luck

If you send it to haltech they will almost certainly be able to save the tune. 99% sure I had a flood damaged honda Ecu, the hondata annex board was f**ked too but we still pulled the tune off it. As for what Simon said, you could get a nistuned RB20 Ecu for very cheap these days. But then you'd have to install an AFM..

a stock R34 GTT turbo would make that around 10 psi and be very responsive. You don't need to open up the engine

Stao where do you think -5 would make 20 psi on a RB30 bottom end?

can confirm. I had about 10 weeks of diff-lock status and now it open wheels on boost worse than before the shims went in

how do you just 'notice' that haha

When you say bad what do you mean? Hunting? stalling? popping/farting? high idle? hard to say without more info but we might be able to help

it sounds like you're going to go with the piggy back regardless of advice given. have fun upgrading in less than 12 months time

have you got a photo of the burnt component?

I think there's a bit of a language barrier mate. I meant that your set up will do what you want, there's just a few things that aren't necessary in there. That's okay though it comes down to preference.

38mm will be fine so long as you plan to run a decent amount of boost. low boost + big turbo needs a bigger gate GT35 size turbos don't really belong on a RB25 street car. a .63 rear on a GT35 turbo is a mismatch. Too much compressor, too little turbine. GT30 with a 0.63 rear housing would be nice on the street but 0.82 will give you better top end and a few more usable top end revs. You could always go GT30 with .63 rear and E85 + 22-24psi externally gated for around 330+ rwkw peak. usable boost would come on just before 4000 probably. That would be a mean street car

worth noting that the filter/breather is a bad idea. Hook it up to the turbo intake. 1. It's illegal 2. the filter material will become soaked in oil and drip. also it's a fire hazard 3. Supposedly exposing the crank case to vacuum from the turbo will help keep the rings on their seats with a worn engine. I don't know how true this is. 4. Also if you've got blowby, and I assume you do. then boost is escaping from the combustion chamber into the crankcase where it is venting to atmosphere. typically you want this to recirculate to the turbo's inlet. I'm not sure if this would affect AFR's though Anyway, hook up the catch can between the rocker covers and the compressor inlet. That should allow you to tick all the boxes of legality while keeping oil out of your intake

no that will do just fine. but you don't need a nismo FPR. the factory one will be fine. Ditch the e-manage and use a different ECU. for unless you're drifting or doing circuit work you don't need an aftermarket oil cooler. If you're worried grab a oil temp gauge