Blackkers

Just to clear up. The 10.25s can be installed with no modification; but the 10.8s can not?

Draining the tank isn't that hard. Flick the fuel pump on and catch it before it gets to the fuel rail

Could you show us a picture of the TT pipe that's been tapped into? Interesting.. It is generally a better idea to run your wastegate actuator(s) boost source close to the compressor outlet. And any MAP sensing equipment from the Manifold itself

Standard RB26 Standard Fuel pump + injectors. Fuel pump direct +12v feed Turbos either standard or N1's or something. Engine came from an imported R32 half cut so who knows. I'll check what they are when I get a chance. It just made more power than we were expecting Standard dumps 2x2" to 3" front pipe. 3inch 100cell stainless cat. 3.5" to 4" catback (don't laugh I know it's a shitty design) Standard ECU socketed and chip tuned by Guilt Toy himself. 270rwkw @ 17psi. 22 degrees of timing in the top end on 98 and it goes super rich from ~7500 RPM to keep EGT's down incase the turbos are indeed ceramic as 17psi is a bit beyond what's considered "safe"

I took the GTR up from Sydney to see Anthony today I pulled the boost restrictor 2 weeks ago and had issues with minor stuttering between gears and just running slightly off. (turns out it was lean as fck!) I went for a chip tune which is just a modified standard ecu to allow non-standard EEPROM chip. (I'll get Guilt Toy to explain this in english) We found on the standard ECU with boost at 17psi it was running AFR's in the ~12.5:1 region with Timing at 27 degrees!! that's E85 timing! I'm surprised the engine & turbos lasted 2 weeks like that. anyway with a proper tune we finished up at 270rwkw Overall the car feels a hell of a lot faster to drive. faster in between gears and more powerful throughout the rev range even though we didn't add any boost. A tune with anthony is worth the drive from Sydney. Thanks again man, Can't wait to hit up wakefield!

shit I use a 25 amp relay from jaycar. those 460s draw up around ~18A on boost right?

Anyone used 2x walbro 255's? I haven't heard of it but the amount of flow vs the current they draw is better than the 460 version from memory.

Getting VCT working will net you a cool ~500 rpm of response

Sounds like your clutch won't like e85!

Scotty will post soon about Xspurt 750's - he's the guy to talk to

You've opened a can of worms. I suggest run lower boost so the stock ecu is happyish and instead of spending money on any more parts put it in the bank. Marry a nice girl and buy a house one day.

Just quickly. Bearings aren't magnetic so whatever was stuck to the sump plug won't be your bearings. Not sure whether that's good or bad news. Good luck with it

okay damn. that's what I feared. I have seen truely worn out clutches and thought this one would be okay. My mistake, now I'll pay for it. I have been quoted $500 from a guy in smithfield called Rob Nguyen; that's a good price for labour right?

yeah that makes sense but it really should hold this power level even with the factory pressure plate and it's slipping quite badly

Hey guys I just dropped the engine back into the R32 GTR. While it was out I had a look at the clutch and it seemed to have some meat on it but not heaps; maybe 1mm of depth in the organic material. Looked like a factory pressure plate but the clutch disc had Exedy written on it. I pulled the boost restricter and boost climbed just past +7 on the factory gauge which I believe is around 13psi or so. Now the clutch slips in 3rd or higher when boost hits. (factory snails) This was my first ever clutch job, is there something I could have done wrong? I'm just wondering if there was something I could have missed before I go and fit a new clutch. Also I really don't want to drop the gearbox out on my garage floor does anybody know someone for a cheap clutch job in Sydney? I can supply another flywheel that has been freshly machined so it will just be a straightforward swap. Thanks in advance. Also I'm wondering if anyone has used those "Xtreme" clutch kits before. There's one from hioctane for like $300 and a cushioned button kit for like $450 does anyone know what they're like? Keep in mind it's a stock turbo setup; I'm about to google it anyway

Uhh, is it normal for stock twins to make 275kw?

considering you've maxed out the injectors and must still be at low boost I'd say it would be a better idea to tune for best response as you can just push boost until you run out of injector flow...

Have you got a picture of the rear housing?

Nice thread. Good read I had the same failure on my R33. Took a while to find also

I can vouch for the 21U highflow. Guilt toy was impressed with it too. 273 rwkw on 17psi with P98 and full boost at 3300rpm in 4th

Yep also follow up why he is selling. I saw that ad too and didn't like his explanation for only owning it a short time

What engine?

Sounds like a bit of a headache. Is your car far away from being finished? I'd love some feedback on how it drives once it's all sorted

Reviving an old thread. The consensus seems to be the Quafie front center is the overall favourite. Although we haven't had any input from anyone using either of the 2 Cusco front diff options: the RS model: http://www.rhdjapan.com/cusco-type-rs-lsd-diff-front-nissan-bnr32-bcnr33-bnr34.html the MZ model: http://www.rhdjapan.com/cusco-type-mz-lsd-front-limited-slip-differential-r32-r33-r34-gt-r.html If anyone has one of these or knows somebody with one could you please weigh in? the Quafie unit's are a fair bit more expensive from Just Jap ($700 more) and I only just sent and email to Piggaz's contact - Thanks for the contact btw Paul My engine is out and it is not going back in with a stock front diff! Help me make a decision please! I would love a helical from Quaife but I don't think I can justify the extra $$ for it. Thanks

yeah its super easy man your grandma could do it. just remove the standard boost solenoid. you can unplug it and throw it away