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Everything posted by Blackkers
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I wouldn't worry too much about the thermostat. How'd you go with the run in?
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Where are you located?
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Whereabouts does the boost come in on that ATR45SAT turbo? Stao do you have the specs of that turbo available? considering it for my Rb26/30 single turbo build
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the standard RB26 plenum is pretty damn good. maybe get it powder coated if you like the look of new stuff under the bonnet. But really a new plenum won't make a bee's dick's worth of difference to anything except your wallet
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Exhaust Choices. Straight Pipes Or Cannons? Or Neither?
Blackkers replied to 684NGR33's topic in Forced Induction Performance
Did boost change when you changed the exhaust? -
actually? thats hilarious
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Hey mate if the car is banned it's banned. no way around it unfortunately. There are certain cars that have been allowed as they fall under the 130kw/tonne limit. However sports cars like skylines are still disallowed. It just means you can drive your mum's VW TSI
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^ Do what this man says. 21u highflow lowmount IWG is the best turbo for a daily
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yeahhh nah for the sake of the forum that can't be done. legal bills etc etc anyway I vote twin-cam RB30's next! (please, i'm building one)
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Educated Guess At The Final Tune Results
Blackkers replied to Nismo 3.2ish's topic in RB30 conversions
if it doesn't make what you want.. take it down the road to the next dyno lol and try again. or put the ambient temp sensor near the exhaust or crank up the ramp rate. Who really knows what makes what. 6266 is a touch smaller in size to a GTX3582 right? boosted to hell on E85 should push towards 450rwkw I think -
Ignition Misfire, Or Something Else?
Blackkers replied to harks's topic in Forced Induction Performance
Lean looking plug on cylinder 1 means you could have issues with that injector. Too lean will cause a miss -
this thread derailed before it started.. my only experience with adjusting squish is in a 2 stroke go kart. If we got the squish wrong the kart gave a noticeable power deficit on the dyno. The dyno was a homemade job out of a box trailer and never calibrated but it was a good tuning tool. anecdotal evidence is unlikely what you're after though The other potential issue is getting the combustion chamber CCed for mild to high compression. Yes the right pistons should be chosen but there is a limit (ie valve clearance) and removing material won't help there
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Engine Knock Can't Seem To Get Rid Of It
Blackkers replied to Michael's R33's topic in Forced Induction Performance
The factory knock sensors are pretty old too. I had a knock cut come in around 4500RPM on the haltech due to knock readings over 100.... I was on E85 -
I had this gunk on my side feeds after running e85 straight for 9 months Back on 98 no issues they're clean again
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I've decided to strip down the car rather than return it to stock for the sale. It's just easier Engine: R33 RB25det series 2 (long nose crank). I got it from a halfcut in Japan with 83,000 kms 2013. I changed the timing belt, tensioner, idler, water pump, front crank seal, cam seals, rear main seal. I changed the valve cover gaskets and at the same time painted them in matte black high temp. Engine comes with both manifolds, TB, Cas. harmonic balancer. Exedy HD organic clutch + flywheel. no coilpacks or injectors. $1300 Turbo: Hypergear R33 21u highflow. Current profile. Can support 320rwkw on E85. made 270rwkw for me on p98 17psi $600 Gearbox: Standard R33 box with 120,000 $1100 including tailshaft + shifter etc. BC racing V1 series coilovers for R33 (non-GTR) still under warranty. Bought in May last year. under 10,000kms and zero track days (unfortunately) $700 I have all other parts if anyone wants them or a rolling shell WITH rego for another month or so. PM for my phone number. thanks lads - I've got more shit coming so keep your eyes peeled
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Nizmo_man PM Daleo about the whiteline kit cheaper than that