Blackkers

Anything but Bee*R

The gasket is a cometic which is a poofteenth behind the tomei in terms of quality but it will suit my application perfectly. The head is coming off again and will have hopefully 40 thou removed before it goes back on

okay good that's another reason to skim the head. Now that the head is on it's hard to think about removing it! after running some pretty loose numbers. removing 40 thou or 1mm will bring compression up to about 9.4:1 it will also improve bonnet clearance edit: luke I didn't see your post til just now, unfortunately I can't use a thinner gasket as the quench is tight as feck already The reason I don't want to lower the subframe is because I think i can get away without it. It will leave the suspension geo as normal. I've emailed Kyle at 6boost about the manifold to fit RB30 --> R32 GTR. Havoc fabrication are also happy to accomodate but they suggested looking at a standard highmount as it might fit and save some coin. (sounds like they don't really want the work hey )

low compression and low power does worry me. It's pretty much the opposite of what I wanted to achieve with this engine. I think I'll pull the head and remove 1-1.25mm from the surface of the head after doing some maths to make sure its okay. I'd rather do it now than kick myself later on once the engine is installed and running. Thanks for the input Bob and Mick. It's a 26 head with standard cams. Lift is 8.6 in 8.3 ex. Ideally I would like cams in the ~245 degree region with ~10mm lift but the factory cams will do for now. Okay so as far as cam timing goes; I'll set it up as per usual and then I guess I'll leave it in the hands of the tuner to make adjustments. I was under the impression that when set up with the markings the cam timing ends up retarded slightly

I didn't know the 6466 would stretch that far on a complete set up. 550kw sounds absolutely mental just out of curiosity, RPM wise whereabouts does boost begin to build on the 26?

This kind of depends on other aspects of the setup. Forgive me but is the car a GTR like your avatar picture? and will it be a manual trans? Nos will help you get the turbo going when you're on the transbrake but if you're driving a manual 4WD then just set up launch control on your ecu with a clutch switch and full throttle launch it. Or am I missing something

Hey fellas I've been working towards a twin cam RB30 for a while now. Last year it was going to go in the R33 GTST as a 25/30 neo however I got sick of having no grip so I bought a GTR. I bought an R32 with a blown engine and stuck a 2nd hand import Rb26 in for the time being. I stripped down the blown engine and salvaged the head which underwent a full reco with new valve guides too. the RB30 block came from an R31 which is supposedly less likely to have had overheating issues. The engine has been assembled using: standard Rb30 crank - grub screwed and collar fitted Forged rods Nitto +9cc 9:1 pistons designed for the twin cam head 86.5mm standard head reco'd and machined for MLS gasket powertune adjustable cam gears (modified genuine nissan items) RIPS 4wd adapter + standard RB26 sump + tomei baffles - Quaife diff planned before engine install rear of head breather to sump oil restricters in the block cometic MLS gasket 1.2mm R34 Rb25det neo oil pump - inspected, deburred and mild port job. Same internally as N1 pump but 2nd hand and guaranteed working. Too many N1 pumps have failed in early life Turbo will be ATR45SAT by hypergear external gate. If in the future I'm looking for more ponies & less response I will change to something along the lines of a BW8374 or PTE6466 manifold TBA The end figure for static compression came out at 8.65:1; I'm not overly happy about that as I'm planning full time E85 but I guess it leaves headroom for more boost now to the queries: I'm fitting the engine in an R32 which is known to have bonnet clearance issues. I will drop the engine down as far as I can by modifying the engine mount brackets. I'm also happy to trim the bonnet reinforcement. Can I use any high mount manifold that was designed for the RB26 or do I need to have one made that sits the turbo lower? The engine should sit between 20-25 mm higher than the standard RB26. If possible I would like to avoid spacing down the subframe but if it's necessary then so be it. cam timing: Using the factory RB26 cam backing plate markings where are my cams likely to end up in terms of cam timing? I'm happy to set them up as normal and do some minor adjustments using the cam gears just for the run in tune until the full tune is done Windage tray: The Rb26 had windage trays, Rb30 girdle doesn't accommodate any windage trays. Any point in drilling, tapping and fitting the 26 trays to the 30 girdle? any input, help, comments or otherwise is appreciated. This has been the biggest project I've ever pursued so I'm hoping I haven't missed anything! thanks

personally I wouldn't bother. Only because the gauges are so old now that they are mostly useless. My voltage gauge reads 11.5 when it's really at 14v my boost gauge reads -200mmhg when it's at atmospheric pressure (engine off) oil temp peaked at 100c on the track where it's unlikely to have been less than 120. I don't have another way of measuring unfortunately. I don't mean to rain on your parade. The stock look is nice but the gauges belong in the bin unfortunately. If you like a clean look, the Defi Din triple gauge option would be nice; although it's $500 or so

Mca are putting together some coilovers for me in the r32 gtr. Josh is really good to talk to about your set up and he will advise you on what to do. XR mca Coilovers fall between the red and blue in terms of price, performance and street comfort. They aren't listed on their site yet as they are a new release but cost $1950 and look very promising

Op follow this advice. Both options involve removing the piggy back thing. There was a time when these used to serve a purpose.. That time is long gone

Why are they junk?

What are the issues with N1 pumps? do they tend to smash the gears like the factory pumps? I'm about to use one on a new engine and I'm thinking it'd be a good idea to use some billet gears for it

Hey Tao I saw the ATR45SAT results on the standard rb26. 400kw 24psi e85. Boost comes on barely behind the standard twins! Did you have adjustable cam gears at all? I look forward to fitting that turbo to the 2630. I'm picking up the short block in the next few weeks so I should organise the turbo + 50mm gate asap

2nd hand neo if you want to make some more power. They aren't as old as the R33 engines too

Someone will buy your forged gear and oil pump it won't cost you much to change over

Nitto the r34 was making over 600kw from memory on the standard bottom end r34 engine before the oil pump went. If you get an r33 engine in good nick and fit headstuds it will probably last for years with heaps of boost dialled in

don't waste money on platinum plugs

I bought these when I thought I was sticking with twins. Now that i'm going single I don't need these Brand new never fitted. $550 ono shipping available. arguably the best dumps available. split dumps belong in the bin Located Sydney. Shipping is easily organised http://justjap.com/hpi-stainless-turbine-outlet-set-nissan-skyline-gtr.html

Rb40 haha 100mm stroke length

Okay you will need the Afm from the same car the ecu came from. You also need to set base fuel pressure to 45 psi with the FPR unplugged from the vac/boost source Ignore the narrowband gauge they're worse than useless

Damn. Any idea how much it weighs?

cute nails bro. I didn't know a sump like that existed

full boost well before 4000 on the R33 highflow. I had full boost around 3400 rpm (20psi) and 306 rwkw on E85. awesome street set up

If it makes any difference I would be suprised

You should also know that there are single turbo options that will give a similar top end HP figure but will come on boost much earlier than the -5's will.