Blackkers

I was under the impression the Z33 boxes were made of glass. Maybe that's the connecting rods in their engines... are they as strong from the factory than the R33 turbo gearbox?

How does it behave with the current set up?

Guilt toy can chip tune the r33 ecu I think So can Toshi

yes, and it's an awesome turbo considering the price tag. Although it doesn't run very well on the standard R33 ecu. I was having issues at 9 psi on the HG 21u highflow so in other words if you're on the factory ecu stick to the factory r33 turbo. I'm sure the R34 turbo will run okay but it wont be perfect without a tune

That's definitely on the cards Bob! The 26/30 will go in the car with a Quaife most likely but right now I've got a standard engine and 270rwkw. Hopefully mid this year I can start making some power. I wanted to improve the handling and get a better feel for the car seeing as I've never really driven anything 4WD before. I'm thinking MCA Blue coilovers (can't justify the $2600 for the reds) and spring rates in the 8/6 KG territory. Wakefield is my favourite track and it gets pretty bumpy in places so as GTSboy said it won't even be advantageous using astronomical spring rates Whiteline ARBs 22/24 with some adjust-ability there too. I've got some locking collars for the rear subframe bushes too. Call me lazy but I don't really feel like spending 8 hours swearing at the rear subframe to install some solid items

marcus Check this out; http://www.rhdjapan.com/nismo-r200-mechanical-lsd-disc-kit-rs521.html some people have talked about success with a rebuilt R32 GTR 2 way. You can tighten it up a whole lot with this kit

More torque at the wheels in every gear. Nice

Hey guys after reading 20+ pages I'm having a hard time finding anyone with the exact set up as me. I'm wondering if I could fit 255/35R18 tyres on a set of 18x8.5 +35 D1r's on the R32 GTR. If not there is a 245/35R18 available too which is more likely to fit but the tyres are the same $$ so I figured I'd go bigger if possible. Also my wheels meet the minimum recommended width for both tyres I currently have 235/40/18 and there is a bit of minor scrubbing on the front right but not the left. Should I roll the guards and fit the big tyres? the 255/35 have a lower rolling diameter than the 235/40 The car is about 1-1.5 inch down from stock height but I will be raising it slightly with new coilovers in the coming months. Thanks

Cool generally a bit of understeer is fast anyway; those spring rates are more attractive to me as I'm mostly on the street What shocks are you running? Is it a coilover kit?

apparently It's got to do with the 4WD system and correcting factory tuned understeer; but 2.4x stiffness doesn't even seem okay. anyway here is some video from the other day: https://youtu.be/R8ut82IIUOM Keep in mind I'm on street tyres with shot rears. The Shock/spring combo is completely mismatched (springs are too low for the shock). And also the brake pads I ordered didn't come in time so I'm using some 80% worn Bendix Ulti-shits borrowed from my R33. I couldn't lean on the brakes whatsoever. In fact you will see in the vid that I had to slow down and even put hazards on

I accept your challenge. I gave MCA a call about some coilovers and he explained how they can set up the shock to suit your application before they ship it to you and you can choose whatever spring rate you desire. Though he recommended 12kg/10kg on the GTR for the best lap times. His test car had factory sway bars. Those spring rates seem unnecessarily high. He also said they are about to release a new product line for in-betweeners who don't want the full on race gear but don't want the street gear either. the XR line is about to be released but they are waiting on a few cosmetic parts; he can sell them now if you specifically want them but the spring retainers will be the old colour scheme

okay sweet so I'm better off with adjustable items so it would seem. I should install some coilovers first though and my tyres were shocking and unroadworthy on the rear. I'm uploading some footage from the day so anyone can get an idea as to the understeer issues I had. edit: also the cusco bars are 24mm front 30mm rear which seems super stiff

Hey everyone I'm looking to improve the cornering ability of the R32 GTR. I had it at wakefield last week and a modified S2000 was catching me at the top of the hill at the end of the double right hander. This is unacceptable! It was understeering heavily in the fish hook, turn 10 and turn 2. Not so much the double right hander but more grip would be nice anyway. Is it worth getting some Cusco or Whiteline sway bars? Front and rear will cost about the same but the whiteline are adjustable and not as stiff. Also should I upgrade the links or does it not really matter? Hardrace do some aftermarket links which are pretty good value. I will be installing better coilovers, tyres and some subframe bush locking collars hopefully before the next track day. Should I wait until after then to see if I still need the sway bars or is it just a good idea to do it anyway? I know sway bar stiffness need so somewhat match spring rates but I have no idea what's on there and I haven't decided which coilovers to go for. any input is appreciated. Thanks

Yep the kinugawa option is well tried. People seem to report boost control issues unless you port the internal WG though so maybe do some more reading

Seeing as you're going to drag race it. Why not build 2 catbacks one for the street then some sidepipes or something to delete the cat and just dump the exhaust gas with no possible restriction? Bit of a headache but it would be cool and you don't see it often

Headgasket will be fine at that power level considering boost should be low 20's psi. If you're worried fit ARP head studs. You can do that one by one with the head in place too to save many headaches

You could potentially do this on the road yourself if you have a wideband and just data log boost vs rpm and whatever else you feel like. just use slightly lazy timing and slightly rich as well, if afrs are way off then maybe touch them up as you go. Being on e85 means you don't have to worry so much about nuking it

They are V1 not BR though

Lol those Coilovers are mine. I have the receipt from the purchase in May last year

one pipe from the turbo to the rear muffler? Unlikely even if it is a full custom job They can just chop off your rear muffler and fit a cannon. That will do what you want. Can't believe I just told someone to fit a cannon

What do you seriously think would cause that to happen with 450kw and prepped standard rods?

If you're going to build a slapper that's probably the way to do it. Just use new rings and make sure the bores are the right size. Rods are probably already balanced with the pistons if they're still assembled. Get them rebalanced if you're picky

Off topic but would there be any advantage to using a larger rotor with the factory caliper via the use of an adapter of some sort? Forget the cost to benefit ratio I'm just curious whether it would increase performance and reduce brake fade. Just had the thought because more people use 17/18 inch wheels than the factory 16s

Engine won't mind a 0.6 gap. If it works then go for it

Good question also curious. You see people occasionally fit arp bolts and having to resize the rods and rebalance with aftermarket pistons. The $$ probably comes out similar to cheap forged rods that come with arp 2000 bolts