Blackkers

bit of a side question: Will P98 + WMI give similar results to a pure E85 tune?

http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/arp-stud-kit-head-arp-arp-2000-2024301-2024309-nissan-skyline-r32-gts4-gtst-r33-gts25t-r34-25gtt-rb20det-rb25det-rb25det-neo-p-489.html

Considering I already have the rear fitting tapped and installed and I have not opened up where the oil drains back down the block I'm just going to do it anyway as it's easy. Also I have 2 - 12 breathers from the head and only one - 12 from the sump so it will help equalise pressure without interrupting oil return. You're probably right it's not needed but I'm set up for it

Really sorry fellas I sold them elsewhere and forgot this ad existed

depending on the ECU you could more than likely recalibrate the 0-5v input based on your own calculations

oh and this

Hey guys back again. This week I'm going to have some AN fittings welded onto the sump before I remove the diff and have it all cleaned up. Fittings I'm using: 2x -10 AN 1x -12 AN The first -10 will go as a breather to the rear of the head the second -10 will go to the bottom of the Catch can as a drain back to the sump. The -12 will go as a breather to the top of the catch can The head will have a -10 rear breather to sump 2x -12 push on fittings for the cam breathers connected to the catch can as well The catch can I'm tempted to use will be the Hi Octane direct with 3x -12 breathers (1 sump, 2 cam covers). and a -10 drain (sump). A breather will be connected to the vacuum from the turbo inlet I know that's confusing so I drew a (also confusing) diagram: Does anyone see anything wrong with this? The hi octane catch can will need to be modified for the extra -12 breather if they can't do it in house (http://www.hioctanedirect.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=67_74&products_id=1448) Thanks I guess I should mention I'm using 1.25mm and blank oil plugs in the block with an R34det neo oil pump that's been overhauled. Standard sump size and RIPS pickup/awd adaptor with tomei baffles. The engine is unlikely to break 7500rpm

Yeah I've got one in north sydney area if you're nearby PM

Yeah I went 10/6 based on his suggestion of it being more streetable. I'm thinking 12/8 would actually be better overall though I want to set up the rest of the car before I make any other changes. Only reason I still had some understeer with 10/6 is because I've got staggered wheels with slightly wider rears. The overall rolling diameter is within 1.9% so it hasn't upset the 4WD yet. Don't be afraid to go 10/6 if you aren't going to do many track days per year. If you're there every month then 12/8 is probably the go; I do believe the difference would be quite noticeable The hard thing about choosing a comfort/performance balance is that everyone has different standards for comfort!

What engine man? If it's rb20 I'd suggest smaller is better. Rb25 go for the new ss2!

2 seconds on a 60 second lap is a huge improvement for just the coilover change fatz. Today was awesome at Wakefield. No other Skylines there but a few Nissan fans came up to check out the car. I went from doing 2 fast sessions to chasing boost leaks, then 'fixing' it with Duct tape and Zip ties. I dropped boost down to 10 psi so the joiner would hold together for a few more sessions. It began to rain which was perfect I practised 4WD drifting for the first time. It would be very awesome to see more skylines there. I'll post in the NSW section with plenty of notice and hopefully a couple of RB's will join me out there next time! Oh and an RX7 blew up and spewed oil over 1km of the track - given!

for those who are interested in a very un-scientific summary of how the MCA XRs went at Wakefield today: Huge improvement over the old miss match suspension that's for sure. I did 8 laps flat out and the coilovers didn't overheat or show signs of fatigue. Only thing I would change for the track is slightly harder springs as Josh suggested (surprise surprise, he knows his shit). but 10/6 is a good compromise for street comfort; the mrs doesn't mind riding in the GTR now - apart from the noise! also they respond to adjustments very predictably. I had some understeer which was easy to dial out by tightening up the rear shocks by one 'click' They aren't the be all and end all but definitely very very good and especially for the price. I would do the same again. It's not likely to be worth the extra $650 for the Reds for someone who does 80% street Lap times improved dramatically however I also changed brakes, tyres and boost level so I can't credit the 4 second improvement to the MCAs

What's the idea of a lower temp thermostat? It doesn't increase cooling capacity at all and at best would buy you an extra lap maybe 2 if you're having heat problems

Ah shit. Well just switch to e85 and run 20psi

Blueish white smoke is never a good thing. How does it drive? You could pull the intake pipe off the turbo and see if the compressor housing is full of oil and check the condition of the comp wheel

Dude are you elvis? you bought my old turbo? I had the 20 psi actuator installed with about 1-2mm negative preload on the actuator to bring boost down to about 17psi when i switched to 98. That killed response Fit the black kinugawa actuator I gave you with about 5mm preload and you will get full boost around 3400rpm in 4th with max boost around 14-15 psi

are the XR6T engine and gearboxes reliable when making good power?

The mca XRs are more comfortable than the Bc Brs I had in my 33. Can't imagine what the XCs would be like on the street I like the included sheets for noobs who tend to over adjust and f**k up the whole set up! (me in a nutshell) All my pictures come up sideways sorry fellas..

it will all be worth it once it hits the dyno for the last time man. Hang in there!

hmm mine doesn't do that very well just yet

f**k that what else are gtrs good for

Glad you have it fixed. Just out of curiosity how is the response now?

well it's because all that information is searchable. it's a 'turn it up and hope for the best' situation. But you can max out -9's on a standard motor and not have to worry too much about reliability. Don't worry about oiling mods too much if it's 100% street. A catch can would keep some oil from entering the intake. Also keep the standard fuel rail - no point changing that edit: I know you didn't mention it but keep the cams standard

These arrived today, I'll let you know what I think but my comparison is some shitty old school jap twin tube design which has springs too low for the shock and overheats after 3-5 laps. Once the car is hot it stops controlling the spring and the car sways, pogos and slides. 10KG front 6KG rear. Josh suggested 12/7 or 12/7.5 from memory. I just wanted a bit softer while keeping a slightly stiffer rear end. Last outing I had too much understeer so we will see how this goes One of the reasons I went MCA is because Josh said that If I don't like the spring combo I can send them back and swap them out at no cost. As long as they aren't damaged he will exchange them for free. He didn't specify a time frame on this but I imagine it would have to be soon after they are installed. Buying the wrong springs isn't the end of the world anyway as they are $50 each brand new from MCA. If you are really hardcore or if you love pulling your coilovers out you could even have 2 sets of springs!

While we are on the topic of fuel systems. Is there an option for an aftermarket or custom fuel tank lid? One that would allow bigger electrical connections and fuel lines? I'm going to run a single 460 Walbro intank and at the track just keep the tank almost full. But for the wiring I'm going to drill a hole in the factory lid and feed some 25A wiring direct to the pump and bypass the connections. Then I'll seal it up with something that doesn't react with ethanol or petrol. I've always thought that in the future if I changed to a bigger snail and had to upgrade the fuel system I could install a transformer of such and step the voltage on the 460 up over 14V to keep up. For a street car a single intank pump is an attractive option