Blackkers

Hey bud any chance you've still got the pictures from this? I'm going to attempt the throttle fix this week Cheers

before you pull the front bar off to look at the bovs. check out the rubber joiners in the engine bay. I had one split recently and it took embarrassingly long to find

Oh man better than expected. Just to confirm. Is it gen 2 6266? Or 6262?

Sorry if it's been mentioned before but is your engine standard or have you got some stronger goodies in there?

With the gss342 I used in my r33 it stretched to 306rwkw on e85 with 20psi in the top end. That was with the direct voltage mod and a standard ryco filter. That's well over 500 HP worth of petrol

Needs more rpm

awesome fatz. Is that a breather from the oil cap?

Walbro gss342 will be fine for 500 HP at the wheels on petrol. So long as boost isn't too high and the pump is receiving full voltage.

If you have no gasket for the bov then I can guarantee it will leak boost above 4-5psi. I tested it even after cleaning the surfacesStock bovs leak vacuum too but the air that leaks in has been measured by the air flow meter so it doesn't upset anything. I hate to say it but unless you go mafless on a different ecu then you're 100% better off going back to the stock bov with an oem metal gasket

Wideband if you've got it Rpm Timing Knock Map Air temp Throttle If you're doing laps then maybe add Coolant temp Vehicle speed Gear What's your set up? The haltech base map is pretty lazy on timing. We ended up adding 4-5 degrees in the top end on P98

double post: Just saw the Gen2 6266 and 6466 are listed too. oops 800 and 900HP respectively 6266 Gen1 735HP 6266 Gen2 800HP I'd love to see side by side dyno results

I can't find any results on the 6062 gen 2 yet. Anyone got anything interesting? For those who haven't seen it yet. The 6062 is rated for 750HP where the 6262 and 6266 is 705 and 735HP respectively. Smaller turbos that flow more are always a good thing however these things need to be confirmed in a real world comparison! Just in case they've added more weight to the comp wheel which will affect spool up All I could find with MR google was a 1.8L VW guy who did a boost vs RPM log and got 20psi by 4900RPM untuned. Am I missing something? Also is this the first release of a new line of Gen2 Turbos? It would be awesome to see this new design move it's way up to larger turbos for better spool vs Power.

Yeah there is actually.Series one is a 4 pin while series 2 is a 3 pin pink label. I think Nistune has it listed for an extra 20 HP or so

Maybe check other fuses?

Don't you have a haltech ps 2000?

I think it's different. From memory there was a brown/white and black wires

Something that needs to be double checked: The polarity on the pump. Don't be embarrased if you get it wrong. From memory the black wire is positive on the fuel pump or something weird. If the polarity is reversed it will sound like it's running but really it's going backwards and the car won't fire

Only with a remote filter. I imagine is been done before

The hose from the back of the head to the sump isn't actually an additional oil drain. It's just a breather. The theory is that if crankcase pressure has another avenue to make its way to the head then it's less likely to interrupt oil flowing back to the sump from the head. That's also why you don't plumb it into the turbo drain, it needs to go to a fitting on the intake side of the engine above the oil level. The general consensus is that it's redundant if you properly vent the head and sump to a catch can. Personally I'm going to do it anyway because I didn't drill out the oil returns so anything will help It's all in the last 20 pages of that thread. I urge you to keep reading. There is a great summary post by a member called iruvyouskyrine or something similar.

I think he mentioned no aftermarket cooler. If so it could be possible that the filter is plumbed in backwards

Couple of mock up glory shots. Massive exhaust wheel (approx 62-63mm) in the tiny .63 T3 rear housing. ATR45SAT should make a responsive 400-420rwkw. I'll probably run it around 22-24 psi. I hope a Walbro 460 and 1000cc EV14's on the stock rail/reg can keep up I'm waiting on fittings to arrive then I can put the sump together. Catch can should be ready next week. I might get it powdercoated in black

VNT turbo would be awesome

I have used both that you mentioned and prefer the GFB unit. But it's a personal thing. Performance is identical Both are awkward to mount in the cabin but the GFB has a nicer display so you can delete a boost gauge. Although the led lighting stands out if you get pulled over, it just might draw attention more than the eboost. In conclusion: toss a coin

I see so the off boost 'response' section of the map would have to stay the same as on 98 because wmi is switched with boost? That would make sense.

If you leave all the other bolts in it probably won't matter which order they're replaced in. Having said that, I'd follow the order arp specifies for the peace of mind.