R32Abuser

UPDATE Engine has had the following changed and is sitting waiting for dyno time: Another CAS sensor (builder just wanted to make sure it wasn't the issue by trying a 100% working item) Removed RB25DE (R32) camshafts and Installed RB20DET camshafts Re-timed (using timing light) Dump will be dropped if the motor pings on the next dyno run to rule out back pressure I believe he has changed the ignitor pack Builder said from his initial impression after the above parts where installed: "Previously, on idle and throughout the rev range, the car would "pop/putter" alot instead of a nice clean flow of exhaust. Now since we have changed the items (listed above), the note is a lot cleaner and significantly less "poppy/puttery". Also, from an initial drive, the car feels alot more doughier than before. This doughier would reflect the feeling you would expect considering the level of timing (~8 degrees advanced max!) the motor has wound into it compared to how it previously felt." The above I guess is nothing to be overly excited about, but I'd say at a guess its a step in the right direction. The fact that the car feels a bit more doughier could reflect that originally the car may have been incorrectly timed. But it could also reflect many other things as well! So I'm not getting my hopes up... At present, Im waiting for dyno time early to mid next week, where Ill find out if any of these changes have helped. If not, I think the only option is to go to E85. Even if we do take off the head, and find it is the head which is the problem (which I 100% doubt it is), then there isn't a whole lot else to do but go to E85. Im not going to a 26 head as there is too much to change, far too much expense, and defeating the original purpose of the build to keep it looking stock. If its not the head, and pistons are all as I've measured and calculated, then there's not a whole heap else to try except changing the ancillaries to the ECU - ignitor, ECU itself etc. etc. I'll be validating all the calculations I've done if we take the head off but guess I'll cross that bridge when I come to it. Either way, I'm going to stick with the current direction of getting the head taken off if the above fails to change the problem. Then I'll address what I will do from there on in regarding workshop time, dyno etc. Why aren't things ever simple

Luke, See PM. Cheers, David

Yup Cams should be in the motor at the moment. Awaiting dyno time (for free)... Will update as soon as I know more!

Navara speedo drive for me was around $50...

Here is a compression calculator I made in excel to check my compression on my RB30... feel free to use. You'll have to find out all the specs of the pistons, compression height etc etc yourself though. Im not making it that easy for you! Cheers P.S. Wouldn't hurt to double check all the calcs. Sydneykid seemed to think there was no problems with it though... Static Compression Ratio Calculator.xlsx

Hey cubes, Haven't done a leak down test yet - Ive been to flat out with work to get anything done on the car plus its at the builders. Borrowed and bought one exhaust and intake set of RB20DET camshafts to try. Probably won't work, but its worth a shot. Trying new ignitor aswell just in case. As far as the ring gaps are concerned, Ill get these off the builder on Monday as Im curious aswell. I would say they would be in the region on 0.02"-0.04". Judging by the piston slap when cold I would say around 0.04". Either way I don't think they're excessive. Boost leaks - not sure of either. From driving it, it didn't seem like it had any boost leaks. But I guess I cant be too sure. Next time it jumps on the dyno, I'm going to be there so I will be more in the loop. Failing all this, the head is coming off... Then pending what is found from that, E85 may be the only option. Got any contact details for RBMAN or know of what he did to fix it. Did he ever track down the problem? Cheers, David

Not 100% complete. Still having issues with the tune etc. as per my thread... Objective was to make it look as stealth/clean as possible. Will probably end up going a stock route Blitz cooler down the road to make it look standard as possible. Who woulda known there's a GT3076R lurking under there

Since we are going to chuck RB20DET turbo cams in, I am going to see if i can get him to take the head off aswell whilst most of it is off. Once that is done, majority of the stuff listed previously can be checked. Also the condition of the pistons after the detonation can also be checked.

Doesnt work weekends...

Plenty of 26/25/20. First forklift motor though. The machinist has built countless RB30's before.

Negative

Just doing some light reading of the R33 RB30DET Thread (all 350 odd pages of it!!!) GTRNUR stated this: And Sydneykid said: Potential issue with my motor being below 0 deck height?

Im buying a catch can off Darren. Just need a second one to suit. Im going for stealth so that would be perfect. Im planning on sanding the one I get from Darren, painting it matte black, then mounting it low. Pictures would be perfect Joel. If you just send them in a reply to the previous emails I've sent you that would be great Also, any other pictures you've got would be great! Be good to see your buildup if your willing to let me see? Still got the old girl? Did you end up going GT35/40?

****REQUIRED ASAP**** 1 Intake and 1 Exhaust RB20DET Camshafts. Cam gears possibly. Needed to test whether my current cams are causing detonation on my rebuilt motor. Contact via PM or 0401317009

Expect a SMS

Also, am looking for a catch can setup just for good measure. Was always planning to have one setup anyway so now is the best time to do so.

It has a Bosch 040 in it at the moment. Dunno bout wiring but I want this to be done aswell. Still tho, I wouldnt have expected it to cause this issue without giving symptoms of fuel starvation. In terms of the fuel getting hot, Im not sure. Something to note and something else to try. I want to get the motor re-timed. The builder said he has timed countless RB25/26 etc with no problems whatsoever using the same method. Also he rechecked the timing again (not sure on whether he took it all off and re-timed it). We are chucking RB20DET cams in it to see if that makes a difference. Hence it will need to be re-timed anyway.

****REQUIRED ASAP**** 1 Intake and 1 Exhaust RB20DET Camshafts. Cam gears possibly. Needed to test whether my current cams are causing detonation on my rebuilt motor. Contact via PM or 0401317009

****REQUIRED ASAP**** 1 Intake and 1 Exhaust RB20DET Camshafts. Cam gears possibly. Needed to test whether my current cams are causing detonation on my rebuilt motor. PM or contact via 0401317009

In saying that, If they are a 26 piston height on a 30 rod the assembly will sit lower in the bore compared to a 30 piston on a 30 rod. I.e lower compression. Spool imports told me they should be approximately close to being a zero deck height with I'm assuming a 30 rod. Mine is definately sitting lower in the bore which would mean a lower compression ratio than designed. If anyone can point me in the right directionif what I've said is wrong then feel free- I don't know much in this area!

Rb26 piston compression height - 30mm Rb25 piston compression height - 31.5mm Rb30 piston compression height - 32.51mm Do not quote them for accuracy

I may have it back to front as I said previously, but either way, the piston is sitting down the bore and not proud of the block. Hence my compression ratio will be less than a calculation at a 0 deck height.

Builder told me he took the timing cover off and checked it. Said it was timed correctly. If the head comes off, this will be done again anyway. Along with CC'ing the combustion chamber, and checking deck height. This will be done as a last resort though...

based on the pistons supplied; HG supplied; rods; deck height is below 0 (builder verified) but I calc'd it at 0 deck height for worst case scenario; head cc (based off 4 other people with the exact same head getting 62cc and all within 1cc of each other); and various other calls i made to verify the specs. I called Brad and he pulled up the original purchase/order. Measurement can only be done if we strip the motor down. Something I dont want to do at this stage. Compression test came back at around 160 psi each cyl.

I havent yet ruled out compression as being the issue... However, from all the information I have infront of me (without pulling the head etc off/apart), the static C.R. doesn't SEEM to be the issue. 9:1 isn't overly high, and I have it on good authority that you can run more (A respected builder/tuner built one to run on pump fuel @ 10:1!!!) and not have issues. Squish is as above. Will not know without pulling the head off. Trying to track down a dyno graph or at least some data to work with. This is the downside of not being able to be present when the motor is being tuned